SP G250 jam nut

[Couv]

$7.95 I think, getting them is the harder part but it's not impossible.

So we are back to square one on the G250V.
Next...

 

[Manatee Diver]

So we are back to square one on the G250V.
Next...

I just went to a Halcyon dealer and asked.

 

[rsingler]

New G250 nut and washer. Polish it, bevel it, whatever.

 

[Couv]

:-D https://www.reddit.com/r/Jokes/comments/3m3f4w/the_hairlip_and_the_nut_salesman/

 

[Modi]

While anxiously waiting for @Open Ocean Diver to come thru with the jam nuts, I decided to play around with these nuts on the lathe.

Caveat #1: I'm not a machinist. Please keep that in mind before bashing my "skilz".
Caveat #2: This is fresh off the lathe. No deburring, no chamfering, no rounding corners, no polishing

It's not perfect. Definitely not up to @buddhasummer lofty standards. I cut the bottom of the hex by mistake and reduced the diameter of the flange about 0.040" too much. It should polish up nicely.

When I have some more free time, I'll try to improve on the next one.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Looks good... I should have early next week first sample.

 

[Geo7]

While anxiously waiting for @Open Ocean Diver to come thru with the jam nuts, I decided to play around with these nuts on the lathe.

Caveat #1: I'm not a machinist. Please keep that in mind before bashing my "skilz".
Caveat #2: This is fresh off the lathe. No deburring, no chamfering, no rounding corners, no polishing

It's not perfect. Definitely not up to @buddhasummer lofty standards. I cut the bottom of the hex by mistake and reduced the diameter of the flange about 0.040" too much. It should polish up nicely.

When I have some more free time, I'll try to improve on the next one.

Does the job! I bet I am not the only one here wishing I had your skills...

 

[Modi]

I've gotten a few PM's about the nut so I thought I would share. The nut I started with is this:
Te-Co 47603 $7.00 Flange Nut, 3/8-16, Gr 18-8, SS | Zoro.com
https://catalog.te-co.com/item/flange-nuts-1/stainless-steel-flange-nuts/47603

Again, I'm not a machinist. My lathe education consists of YouTube, breaking sh!t, and spending a night in a Holiday Inn Express.

They started life as thick-walled 3/8-16 flange nuts. I selected these because the width across the flats was 11/16", the same as my non-SP regulator hoses. They were then drilled and tapped to 9/16-18. The flange was reduced in diameter to 0.770 inch (this is where is screwed up!) and the height was reduced to 0.400" (the original SP spline nut height is 0.375"). Photos below.

The lathe I used was a cheap, Chinese 7x14 mini-lathe. Think Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Grizzly, etc. Mine was an eBay bent-'n-dent special. I got what i paid for. It's OK for bronze, brass, aluminum and plastics. Not so much for stainless steel, hence the poor surface finish (and operator error).

I don't have a G250V or G260, but based on what I've seen on this thread, I believe this nut would work with very minor machining. Possibly only drilling and tapping with no lathe required. If you want to try this at home for the G250V/G260, just go slow with the drill and use lots of oil. Heat is your enemy with stainless as it'll work-harden if it gets too hot. YMMV.

The only negative is the nut is 303 stainless, not 316. Easier to drill, tap, and machine but not as corrosion resistant.

 

[Geo7]

I've gotten a few PM's about the nut so I thought I would share. The nut I started with is this:
Te-Co 47603 $7.00 Flange Nut, 3/8-16, Gr 18-8, SS | Zoro.com
https://catalog.te-co.com/item/flange-nuts-1/stainless-steel-flange-nuts/47603

Again, I'm not a machinist. My lathe education consists of YouTube, breaking sh!t, and spending a night in a Holiday Inn Express.

They started life as thick-walled 3/8-16 flange nuts. I selected these because the width across the flats was 11/16", the same as my non-SP regulator hoses. They were then drilled and tapped to 9/16-18. The flange was reduced in diameter to 0.770 inch (this is where is screwed up!) and the height was reduced to 0.400" (the original SP spline nut height is 0.375"). Photos below.

The lathe I used was a cheap, Chinese 7x14 mini-lathe. Think Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Grizzly, etc. Mine was an eBay bent-'n-dent special. I got what i paid for. It's OK for bronze, brass, aluminum and plastics. Not so much for stainless steel, hence the poor surface finish (and operator error).

I don't have a G250V or G260, but based on what I've seen on this thread, I believe this nut would work with very minor machining. Possibly only drilling and tapping with no lathe required. If you want to try this at home for the G250V/G260, just go slow with the drill and use lots of oil. Heat is your enemy with stainless as it'll work-harden if it gets too hot. YMMV.

The only negative is the nut is 303 stainless, not 316. Easier to drill, tap, and machine but not as corrosion resistant.

View attachment 647360 View attachment 647361 View attachment 647363 View attachment 647364

Fantastic, I love it. I wonder if titanium is easier to work with? Ti-6AL-4V rods are not that expensive...

 

[Modi]

@Geo7 From what I understand, and again I'm not expert, titanium will work-harden even easier than stainless. Will eat bits and tools like candy if not cooled thoroughly while machining. I wouldn't even attempt it with my tinker-toy setup.