solution for D-series poppet seat DIY?

[lexvil]

Opened up and repaired in less time than it takes to get the cover off of an old “D” series.
104 completely extruded and on the shaft

Two smaller o rings still glued to shaft

104 still has silicone in the middle from glueing

New poppet dropped in and no leaks. I love how easy these are to work on.

 

[rsingler]

I'm going to hope it's the adhesion of the particular silicone adhesive that you chose. I was impressed by how hard it was for me to get the stray wisps of glue off my 2-104 on the one I didn't clean completely after gluing. I thought I could peel it off, but it wouldn't budge.
The new D's for my son arrive in Key Largo on Tuesday. I'm on the edge of my seat.

 

[lexvil]

I'm going to hope it's the adhesion of the particular silicone adhesive that you chose. I was impressed by how hard it was for me to get the stray wisps of glue off my 2-104 on the one I didn't clean completely after gluing. I thought I could peel it off, but it wouldn't budge.
The new D's for my son arrive in Key Largo on Tuesday. I'm on the edge of my seat.

This is something I’m also thinking about, I may look for some of the other sealers to give it a try. The first one I did I used only the top tiny o ring and it lasts about 15 hours of use before I noticed a change and it extruded in the shop after I took it apart to see if there was any outward sign of use, none.

If I try this again it’s going to ride the 40 for a good long trial.

 

[rsingler]

Don't know if you saw that little thumbnail upthread, but McMaster PN7545A451

was my choice. I think the key is finding the word adhesive, rather than sealant, on the product label. I don't know beans about that kind of thing, but reading the specs for this stuff was what made the choice for me.

 

[lexvil]

Don't know if you saw that little thumbnail upthread, but McMaster PN7545A451
View attachment 627474
was my choice. I think the key is finding the word adhesive, rather than sealant, on the product label. I don't know beans about that kind of thing, but reading the specs for this stuff was what made the choice for me.

That may have a lot to do with it, the clear sealant I had on hand does come off easily enough.

 

[Kupu]

A thought that may be off target, but I wonder if the nyloc nut on top was tighter than was needed? I have not tried tightening the nut past the point of creating a seal, but it has been easy to know when that occurs by the resulting freeflow. Could using adhesive mask the telltale freeflow of tightening the nut a bit too much?

Also, regardless of using sealant , adhesive, etc cure time should probably be extended past label before diving. If not fully cured, or using wrong product, the result could possibly create the effect of lubricating the seal. The opposite of the intent.

Looking at the photos, it appears there are two different sizes of oring in addition to the 104. A larger oring is at the bottom of the stack and smaller above. I don't see that as a factor in the extrusion, but curious about that since that jumped out at me.

Wish I was able to do more test dives, but will be dry for the rest of the winter.
With the mixed results so far, it goes without saying that anyone using a D with 104 seat should be prepared for failure during a dive.

 

[lexvil]

The nylock was just flush with the threads, the stem above the seal is longer than the old D. The lower bigger 002 (I think) was added after the first attempt to grip the shaft tighter, the 104 had to work pretty hard to roll past it.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

A thought that may be off target, but I wonder if the nyloc nut on top was tighter than was needed? I have not tried tightening the nut past the point of creating a seal, but it has been easy to know when that occurs by the resulting freeflow. Could using adhesive mask the telltale freeflow of tightening the nut a bit too much?

Also, regardless of using sealant , adhesive, etc cure time should probably be extended past label before diving. If not fully cured, or using wrong product, the result could possibly create the effect of lubricating the seal. The opposite of the intent.

Looking at the photos, it appears there are two different sizes of oring in addition to the 104. A larger oring is at the bottom of the stack and smaller above. I don't see that as a factor in the extrusion, but curious about that since that jumped out at me.

Wish I was able to do more test dives, but will be dry for the rest of the winter.
With the mixed results so far, it goes without saying that anyone using a D with 104 seat should be prepared for failure during a dive.

Is there an issue with the original poppet assy? I have two that don’t leak.

 

[Kupu]

Is there an issue with the original poppet assy? I have two that don’t leak.

The originals have worked fine for me. I was looking for seat substitute as alternative to buying a complete service kit for times when all that is needed is a new seat plus a few orings. Just for the fun of it, curious to see if it could be done.

 

[rsingler]

Is there an issue with the original poppet assy? I have two that don’t leak.

Only about 10% of the OEM seats will seal at 0.6", even if the knife edge is perfect. Has to to with material aging for the old orange translucent seats (my favorite), or less than perfect surfaces in the newer black seats.
@Kupu's 104 provides a perfect mating surface, if only we can get it to seal.