Solo Kit setup: the required, redundant, optional, and hell-no items
- Thread starter rfwoodvt
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. For buddy diving I have other regulator sets designated for that.
Simplicity. I’ve one single cylinder regulator set that has a longhose and necklaced shorthose. I wouldn’t bother with a solo regulator set on a single, just use the standard config.
Whilst unlikely that I'd ever need the longhose to donate to another diver if diving solo, it is still a remote possibility.
The main use case for a second necklaced reg is if the primary reg is snagged/ripped from ones mouth, or the reg fails (wet breathe, mouthpiece, etc) where you simply scoop up the necklaced reg and breathe. Of course you could go to the pony/backup, but then you’d end the dive.
johndiver999
Contributor
Well not knocking his system....but more and more I seem to find that the flow is to more and more gear to keep you safer and safer..
The three/four letter agencies promote the concept that new configurations with more gear is better......nothing is so simple that it can't be made more complex...complexity generates more failure points....just my opinion.
My approach especially to solo configurations is to retain simplicity and to rely skills to dive safely. KISS actually works.
Again, to each their own and if a diver has his gear, skills and profiles wired to stay safe....good on 'em.....one size does not fit all.
I dive a single tank and pony if below 60 fsw. The pony is for surfacing and not for correcting issues. When I switch to the pony the dive is over. Since I don't carry the pony on every dive I do have an alternate second on a necklace. I don't make the changes on the regs between dives.
I was at 100 fsw or more, we were descending and just reached the deck of a wooden ship when my primary reg decided to free flow. I switched to the necklace ascended 5 or so feet and cleared the free flow, readjusted the regulator, went back to primary and continued the dive without any further issues. If I did not have the alternate on the necklace I would have had to end the dive. Since the equipment is well maintained and used often, I don't see it as another failure point.
I have considered removing it but haven't yet. I keep reading threads like this and still can't find a reason to remove it that convinces me it is necessary to remove.
I was at 100 fsw or more, we were descending and just reached the deck of a wooden ship when my primary reg decided to free flow. I switched to the necklace ascended 5 or so feet and cleared the free flow, readjusted the regulator, went back to primary and continued the dive without any further issues. If I did not have the alternate on the necklace I would have had to end the dive. Since the equipment is well maintained and used often, I don't see it as another failure point.
I have considered removing it but haven't yet. I keep reading threads like this and still can't find a reason to remove it that convinces me it is necessary to remove.
Did you figure out why the primary free flowed? Guessing that since you are in Washington and probably below any thermocline [lot of assumptions..] the water temp was high or mid 40F....you cleared the free flow, again an assumption on my part, icing by not breathing and "adjusting' the reg to prevent further icing? System works for you....good....also curious at what psi/vol do you switch to pony for ascent and what dictates when you carry a pony?...must also depend on depth? I ask since I learn from the experiences of others...thanks.
I've used a longhose and necklaced shorthose forever on open circuit. If diving on a single tank (a rare event), then I'll be using that DIR-inspired rig. My sidemount rig uses different first stage regs, but still uses a longhose and necklaced secondary. Stages all use a 1m/40" hose which is as close to a longhose.
If I went diving solo, I'd use sidemount as you always need redundancy and accessibility to the regulators. But just for the purposes of this, suppose I used a single cylinder then I would always use the normal single-cylinder configuration with the longhose and bungeed shorthose. And of course a stage-mounted backup cylinder (ooh, half a sidemount and the other half on my back -- yuck!).
I absolutely would not disconnect the longhose and block the hole -- why on earth would I want to reduce functionality? I have a "standard" regulator rig for single cylinder diving with or without other people around. Why muck around with your working kit?
When diving in overheads I still use a longhose. However, it's quite common for people around here diving in sumps to use two shorthoses, one for each side on sidemount.
The reg was recently serviced and just needed a bit of adjustment. At full open it would free flow, I made the adjustment at depth and it was fine. We later made a minor adjustment to cracking pressure. This was at the Great Lakes, water temp was ~45 degrees. I carry a pony for any dive plan deeper than 60 fsw or solo. I do add it for other reasons like a new buddy, unfamiliar dive site, bad viz, basically anytime I don't want to rely on a buddy. I have enough gas to safely ascend from 100 fsw with safety stop, and if I switch to pony the dive is over, so I avoid ending the dive if I can resolve the problem at depth. I do not use my pony unless I need it, so I don't use all my back gas and then switch to pony, I plan my back gas for whole dive, pony is the back up only.
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