There is a real diffe ence between snorkels. I have been snorkeling since 1958, in rivers, lakes, and as an USAF Pararescueman beneath helicopters. I started with a hard plastic "C"-shaped snorkel with a ping pong ball stopper, and when that frustrated me, I cut off the top of the "C" to make a "J" snorkel, which I used for years until I bought a rubber one with a corrugated hose/mouthpiece. But this one folded shut in a river current over my jaw, so I got a flexible AMF Voit one with a hard mouthpiece which wouldn't fold in a current. This one lasted until I got into the USAF, and was issurpd a curved J-shaped snorkel. None of these were the modern "dry" style snorkels.
We learned to use these snorkels in chop, sensing when water was entering and blowing them clear. We also learned to clear the snorkel using the displacement method, rather than the blow method, as it was easier. Simply by looking up and lightly exhaling about three feet, or one meter, underwater when surfacing, we displaced the water in the snorkel and continued the exhalation to the surface, where the snorkel would be clear.
In the 1980s I found out about a new, dry snorkel by Scubapro, the Shotgun snorkel. I used this snorkel on a 18 mile river "Vets Swim for the Needy" event, and I was the only finisher of this swim. I had cut down the snorkel top to give me less dead air space, and the snorkel worked wonderfully. I have been using this snorkel for my primary ever since, and have three of them (including the Shotgun II snorkel I recently picked up. This snorkel does not interfere with air passage or create further breathing resistance other than the length of the snorkel as there is nothing in the air passage to cause resistance to breathing.
In the 1990s I evaluated a number on snorkels to figure out the best for my family, and determined that the U.S. Divers Company Impulse snorkel was best. It was dry, using a dome on top with a top valve to allow water coming down the tube to exit at the dome, and a catch area under the mouthpiece with a mushroom exhaust valve at the low point. This again made for a very dry snorkel without breathing resistance, but divers did not like the dome at the top, so it was discontinued.
A number of other "dry" snorkels have been developed, but all use variations which depend upon creating breathing resistance to blow water out of the bottom exhaust valve. One Aqualung snorkel uses a floating valve at the top to close off the tube, but sometimes it doesn't open when needed and increases the resistance to breathing too. TUSA has a snorkel with a curved top and a plastic cover to ensure water doesn't directly go down the tube, but the curve does increase breathing resistance. All of these dry snorkels depend upon this increase of breathing resistance to expel water out of the mouthpiece.
A newer style by U.S. Divers depends upon two overlapping platforms with slits in the snorkel; it is a separate plastic attachment placed into the top of this snorkel tube. I have found this to be a nearly ideal snorkel if I take that attachment off the top and use the shorter snorkel as a wet snorkel. If I get too much water into the mouthpiece, I simply plug the top with my hand and blow the water out the mushroom valve under the mouthpiece.
SeaRat
PS, David Richie Wilson has elsewhere published EU requirements concerning minimum tube diameters for male and female adults, and I think for children too. I have much more to say and show about snorkels, but this is a good start.