Skills For Carrying And Using A Pony

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The reason for the back a 1/4 - 1/2 turn goes back to industrial valves, think big steam valves and such, that were open for long periods of time, days weeks months, and the valve could get seized in the open position when open all the way for long periods of time. Scuba valves are not left on for long periods of time and there is no back seat just a stop in the back. The sealing is done by O-rings on the shaft not a back seat.

DAN is now recommending the all the way on or all the way off of cylinder valves because of several accidents that have happened due to confusion about is it on of off and being able to breath a partialy open valve at the surface but not at depth. Their reason is that with modern scuba valve design there is no reason to turn a valve back a partial turn from fully open thus eliminating a point of confusion.

Yes you can still splash with a closed valve but if you try to breath a closed valve pre dive you will find the closed valve.
 
To all those with more knowledge on this subject, I say thank you.

A loose valve is an open valve. A set valve is a closed valve.
Pete,

Here I disagree. The reason is, I came across a dive who was complaining about him not able to get air at depth, but he was fine at the surface. The reason? His valve wasn't fully open. Just enough to pressurize, and enough such that if he breathes from it, the needle didn't move (not a good test to see if the valve is fully open).
 
I've been using this thread as a reference and want to add two things to consider.

1) Based on some discussion elsewhere, when carrying a pony tank with the valve off, it is a best practice to use a DIN connection between valve and regulator. A yoke poses two risks in this situation. One, the potential for confusing the yoke clamp bolt handle with the valve handle in an emergency, due to similar size location and appearance.Two, the potential for the yoke clamp bolt to loosen during the dive, leading to O-ring extrusion and loss of gas when the pony is required in an emergency.

2) When the reg is held in place by a fastener on the hose and not by a clip or necklace on the reg itself, it is of particular importance to be sure that the connections on both ends of the hose are wrench tight.
 
I discovered on a solo dive, that having a sling mount attached to my back mounted pony bottle saved me from ending a dive. My pony started to drop and I found it very difficult to remount it while underwater. Good thing I had the sling setup on the bottle. I just continued the dive.
 
If it is your intent to eventually move towards more "technical" diving (and my sense is you are) there is something to be said for sticking to convention, in the way that you hang and stow the tank and reg. I agree with the comments regarding a DIN valve and reg.

Also, I would suggest you consider buying a 40 instead of a 19. The cost difference is minimal as is the weight difference. I don't recall anyone ever complaining about having too much spare gas when the doodoo hits the fan. However, beyond that, I think you might find it easier to sling the 40 and stow the reg on it, just because it's longer.

If/when you do move into more advanced diving, the 40 will be quite acceptable as a deco bottle, whereas the 19 will only be good for a windchime.

Plus they look cooler.

Which is the main thing. :)
 
If/when you do move into more advanced diving, the 40 will be quite acceptable as a deco bottle, whereas the 19 will only be good for a windchime.

Plus they look cooler.

Which is the main thing. :)

+1 If you haven't purchased the 19cf bottle already, get a 30cf (or more ideally) 40cf tank which can then be transitioned into a deco bottle. Sling it and if/when you decide to pursue technical diving, the configuration won't be foreign to you. Like some others here, I like diving with it open at all times knowing if I needed it, opening the valve won't be an additional step.
 
When I dive a 3rd tank - I keep it energized and adjust the knob down to mitigate free flow. Practice stowing/retrieving both reg and the entire tank. Other then that - it's cake.

My rule is: if you are in the water - all gas staying attached to you is ON.

You don't want to be the guy who grabs the reg and forgets to turn it on. That can't be good for your health.

+100 on the 40cf tank. (get a luxfer if you can - good characteristics in water).

+ use a normal brass 2" or 2.5" spg ( if you are basically blind like me :) ) on it. Those button ones are stupid - IMO (mostly because my young amazing eyes can't see them. :wink:kidding I might as well be blind... ).

and uh...label all your seconds so you know what you are about to breath - it'll be useful in the future to get into the habit of doing that now. I use tape! or cut a part of the mouth piece so you can tell what it is when you put it in. YMMV. There's nothing worse than switching gas with a sea of 2nds before you - it's like playing wack-a-mole....you better pick the right one! You Can (Not) Redo.
 
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and uh...label all your seconds so you know what you are about to breath - it'll be useful in the future to get into the habit of doing that now. I use tape! or cut a part of the mouth piece so you can tell what it is when you put it in. YMMV. There's nothing worse than switching gas with a sea of 2nds before you - it's like playing wack-a-mole....you better pick the right one! You Can (Not) Redo.
What?

Sounds like a bad idea to me... I don't see anything wrong with the usual gas change procedure. And in this situation, all his gas should be open and breathable at all depth anyway.
 
What?

Sounds like a bad idea to me... I don't see anything wrong with the usual gas change procedure. And in this situation, all his gas should be open and breathable at all depth anyway.

Why do you think it's a bad idea? Over kill? Yes. Bad idea? No way. The way you switch gas doesn't change - you're just labeling your seconds so you know what they belong to. I think every second should have a visable label regardless of its use.
 
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