Seven foot hose for single cylinder

[TSandM]

Moonglow, I think that's overreaction.

I have shared gas on a 24" hose. It isn't fun at all; you are stuck with the other diver's face in your mask, ascending vertically. I have shared gas on a 40" hose, and it is better, but it's still difficult to get comfortable. A 5' hose is far better, and routes better . . . but a 7' hose routes essentially the same way, and works for everybody (as opposed to a 5' hose, which can be too short for bull-chested folks).

It's not herd mentality. It's having tried a variety of different configurations, and assessing the pros and cons of all of them.

 

[Phreatic Fanatic]

. . . A 7' hose has to be bungied. . . .

I'm still waiting to hear an explanation concerning this.

 

[mk706]

I'm a recent convert to the DIR hose setup. Took a five minute discussion with my instructor, a little topside practice for s-drills, and one dive to get it figured out.

Ohio Divers, on my next dive I'll route my 84" hose down and around my new Dive Rite LED LUX-4. Did you end up buying one? Looks like a great light. Cannot wait to get it in the water.

 

[waterpirate]

If it only took you 1 dive to sort out, my fin is off to you. I resisted the long hose a long time, now I would never go back. As others have said the length of the hose is all about routing. I found the six foot hose perfect for me. My freind big John 7 foot. It took me at least six dives to get it sorted out with no can light, and aroud 25 to feel perfectly happy and comfortable with it it.
Eric

 

[kanonfodr]

Would seem to be more reasonable to first identify a problem area, then seek out a solution. This seems more like deciding on a course of action then justifying it. I'm not saying it's wrong to approach things that way, but one ought to realise which is which.

There, or course, very good reasons for long hose deployment, though recreation divers, as a rule, seldom do so. I have used in cave diving, but have never encountered a buddy breathing scenario [involving me] in open water. As for length, in my opinion, 5 ft doesn't cut it. That's right at my boots, and there are fins to follow.

You have the right do do as you wish, and it really isn't anyone else's business except, perhaps, your buddy's. Try it out, see what you think. It's an evolving process.

Kilili gets it right.

As always: Herd mentality, herd behavior - a knol by Peter Greenfinch

Huh???

Peace,
Greg

 

[gypsyjim]

Huh???

Peace,
Greg

He meant to post this one I think: Luddite - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[FWADIVER]

I have never dove any other way, my open water checkout gear was a 5' hose but that required a swivel at the second stage, a failure point i'm not interested in. 7' house routes great and i use a pair of shears in a sheath to hold it until I can afford a real can light. My wife uses a 5' hose because with her smaller body a 7' is a little to long for her to manage cleanly. I like the way it routes and feel its cleaner and easier than having a big loop hanging off a tank. There is also alot to be said of having the same gear configuration and muscle memory among all the setups. This way when I graduate to doubles, and eventually cavern and cave diving, I dont have any changes to make.

 

[Blackwood]

But why 7 foot and not 8 foot or 10 foot?

Why any hose at all? Just side mount and breathe off the valve.




I can get 7 to route cleanly. 7 is readily available. 7 is sufficient to be single file with most everyone.

I don't know if 8/10 routes cleanly because those lengths for me would be special order, and I have no interest in spending money just to see when what I have is sufficient.

If diving with very tall people, 7 may not be enough to facilitate single file, so YMMV.

 

[50Fathom]

I'm still waiting to hear an explanation concerning this.

I was reading a NSS-CDS Cave Diving Manual circa 1993 or so and bungeeing the long hose was discussed as a proper technique. Either across/around the manifold (SRSLY!), or gathered and bungeed to the side of the tank.

(Of course this same manual also advocated non-isolated manifolded doubles and even independent doubles, along with lead-acid motorcycle-battery-based can lights and other older techniques. It's not that the information was BAD, per se, it's just about 15-20 years out of date.)

In this case, the problem comes in the fact that if the hose wasn't initially bungeed correctly, it can tangle on deployment, it may not entirely deploy in one go, and it requires the use of a teammate to re-stow.

The strength of the Hog Loop, IMHO, is the fact that it can be deployed quickly, it stows and rides cleanly, and it can be re-stowed by the user while maintaining trim.

Only real downside is it requires the use of a can light or other item on the hip to stow the bottom.

 

[cool_hardware52]

The strength of the Hog Loop, IMHO, is the fact that it can be deployed quickly, it stows and rides cleanly, and it can be re-stowed by the user while maintaining trim.

Only real downside is it requires the use of a can light or other item on the hip to stow the bottom.

While I prefer a can light to hook the hose under it's quite possible (and easy with minimal practice) to simply push a loop of hose under the waist strap of the harness if no can light / knife / pocket is present.

Tobin