Setting Up Cascade

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rob.mwpropane

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Finally getting around to setting up my bank. I'll have 4 6000psi bottles and a very basic setup. Each has it's own valve so no panel. My question is how do I want to run the compressor and use the tanks? Just have the compressor dumping into the cascade and slowly whipping into my tanks? Or should I use the compressor to fill the cascade, then bleed into my tanks after?

With my setup I won't always be able to run the compressor, or have time to. I hope to get to the point where I run the compressor for ~ 30 / 60 minutes or something at the end of each work day and "save up" gas for when I need fills. That would be a lot easier than spending 3 hours babysitting a compressor while filling all of my tanks at once. That's the plan anyway.

Thoughts? What's your process for filling bank bottles? @tbone1004 was nice enough to clue me in that the Rix SA-6 that I own can fill up to 3600psi continuous duty, then I should fill each bottle individually to top off and take breaks in between. I only plan to take the 6000psi tanks to 4500psi, which will give me around 415cf in each one. Plenty for me I would think.

This is the exact setup I have;

I also have some O2 bottled that are no longer valid as the company went out of business and can't get them filled anywhere. Not sure if I can repurpose those for a bank bottle or not?

Any input welcome.... there's a learning curve I'm sure, and I'm just starting.
 
having low pressure banks from the O2 bottles is perfectly fine.

You will want to run compressor while you are filling if you are able to. Start with the low banks and cascade up to the high ones, if you deplete the top bank before your tank is full, then shut the cascade off and fill directly from the compressor.
When you are done filling the tank, let the compressor fill the highest bank until you get the next bottle on.
 
It can be as complex as you want to make it,:)
You definitely need a low bank,
no point filling a 500psi dive tank with 4500 psi air,

Here is a quick drawing if you want to keep it simple,
Add pressure gauges as needed,
I use all normal hydraulic fittings and hoses, #04 JIC.
I use a good quality 3 way 1/4turn hydraulic valves,

20211118_192232.jpg
 
having low pressure banks from the O2 bottles is perfectly fine.

You will want to run compressor while you are filling if you are able to. Start with the low banks and cascade up to the high ones, if you deplete the top bank before your tank is full, then shut the cascade off and fill directly from the compressor.
When you are done filling the tank, let the compressor fill the highest bank until you get the next bottle on.
I'm not sure I'll be able to run the compressor when I'm filling, but my setup is constantly being tweaked, so we'll see.
It can be as complex as you want to make it,:)
You definitely need a low bank,
no point filling a 500psi dive tank with 4500 psi air,

Here is a quick drawing if you want to keep it simple,
Add pressure gauges as needed,
I use all normal hydraulic fittings and hoses, #04 JIC.
I use a good quality 3 way 1/4turn hydraulic valves,

View attachment 691676
Link to 3 way1/4 turn hydraulic valve? I do not see them listed where I get my stuff from.

Thanks to the both of you for your insight.
 
I use a good quality 3 way 1/4turn hydraulic valves
There is no such thing as a good quality hydraulic quarter turn valve for high pressure gas.
You can only get them in two versions: Crap or Total Crap.

But never ever good quality.

You can on occations get your hopes up with so called American made Hydraulic valves as opposed to those made in Italy China and Taiwan. But once you have your American made quarter turn hydraulic valve chances are it too was made in China. These valves are classed under a special catagory of Utter Crap.

So there we go three versions Crap Total Crap or Utter Crap.

What you may wish to consider is a quarter turn valve called a Trunnion Valve, its a 1/4 turn without the fear of blasting the internal components across the room at sonic speed when they fail, Also designed to fail safe, have a 4:1 working pressure to burst and dont look like you have bolted a dog turd on the wall.
For everone else try Swagelok. Iain
 
I know, every thing is made in China,
I wouldn't be surprised if somethings for swagelok is too, At the very least the machines that make the fittings have Chinese parts...

But the 3 way I got is really good,
no leaks:)
Been working well for 8 years, possibly is a stauff valve,
And I won't mention the modification I made internally to the ball,

I am not worried about the valve coming apart, it's more that it does leak,
 
I guess at the point when you read hydraulic mild steel zinc plated NBR sealing a wave of nostalga came over you to nail a dog turd trophy on the wall as a reminder that Hope Dies Last.

But I noticed that glimmer of hope in your post, we always should have hope and in this case the hope was that it was possibly a Stauff Valve. Sadly possibly not.

I read somewhere: Faith Hope Love, these three; but the greatest of these is love.

You most certainly have the first two of these fine qualities above. As for the third I guess you just love
taking the risk.
 
It will have teflon around the ball for sealing, the teflon sealing is what I am talking about for not wanting it to leak,
It probably has a oring on the stem,,
you don't like orings?

I am sure there are better valves out there that will do the job better,

I work with hydraulics all the time, I use what I know and is readily available,
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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