Setting up a Boston Whaler Montauk for diving

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I might give the back roll a try but I really don't want to bang up the side of the hull with the tank bottom. Stepping off isn't a big deal especially with the single tanks... but we will see how it is with the doubles.

Last time out we took the scooters in their cradles. We put them over the side on tag lines and then I took one of the cradles forward and turned it upside down on the anchor locker lid and used while donning my tank. This worked very well.
 
My Montauk 167 has been rolled off of maybe 1500 times.
Zero tank-hull contact. My buddy's only had his 170 since
June, and I don't think he's had any contact either.

On both his boat and mine, I gear up on the bow locker.
But my tanks are booted. He gears up in the back and
walks forward (he's a fit young whippersnapper).
 
In getting ready to install a Pate 27 gallon fuel tank I removed the stock tank hold-downs from the deck and filled the holes with Marine Tex epoxy and then added some hold down eyes on each side of the seat bracket.

I made the eyes by bending pad eyes to form a closed loop with the holes aligned. I replaced the center bolt with a longer one that would allow for the extra thickness and the deed was done.
 
I moved the hold down eye pictured in the post above to the aft-most bolt on the RPS bracket

I cut spacers to locate the tank in the center using 1/2" thick HDPE 12" X 2 5/16" on each side and one ~10" X 3/8" X 3/8" spacer in the front so that the filler cap would be easier to take off.

Next I trimmed the dry deck to the tank edge so that the tank wouldn't be able to slide back.

Then I put the tank in place in its normal orientation... and thought, "Why not turn it around since I can lift the seat to fill the tank as well as un-hook the fuel line for using with the portable plastic tanks?"

So that is what I did.

Both sides of the Pate Tank have a sight glass (area without paint) so that you can gauge the fuel level. I used a permanent marker to draw lines indicating 6,12,18 and 24 gallons.
 
Hey... nice boat! Let's see... guessing guessing guessing....

You are an U/W photographer for GreenPeace! Right? :D
 
Uncle Pug:
Hey... nice boat! Let's see... guessing guessing guessing....

You are an U/W photographer for GreenPeace! Right? :D

Thanks. It's a work in progress.

You know Uncle Pug funny you should mention it but actually we are very big supporters of GreenPeace. I would urge all lovers of the ocean (divers especially) to actively be a part of protecting the environment.

We do enjoy our fresh fish 4 nights a week. :wink:

Ladder bracket was mounted by the dealer before I picked it up. I bought the parts and had him do the install. It is really 2 different parts. The outer most piece where the ladder actually slides in and is held in place is what comes with the ladder. The dealer said he couldn't get the correct angle for the ladder putting it directly on the hull. He took what I believe he said was a bracket that they use on the Dauntless and put that on first and mounted the original ladder bracket to it. I was very impressed with the way they did it. A very good idea and a very clean job.

It is NOT through bolted but lagged into the backing plate that is put in at the factory. They said it will NEVER come out. Sooo, if it ever does I see them for the fix'in. It was worth the very small price I paid for the install to have no concerns down the road. So far no probs at all.

I am not sure what is in the "right most gauge hole" in the dash. I will have to look under the hood in the morning and get back to you on that. Oh, well I can tell you that on the '04's they leave an empty space in the right most spot on the gauge panel to mount whatever gauge you care to. I think that's what you're after. I haven't filled this spot and maybe never will. I put the small hour gauge under the dash to avoid making more holes. I only use the hour meter for service intervals. So, it's not really something I tend to look at day in day out.
 
Divefan: It looks like your M170 had railings and they
were removed. How much trouble was it? I've got a
buddy with an M170 who is thinking of taking the bow
railing off, and he'd heard that they are bedded in 5100
(tough stuff).
 
Chuck Tribolet:
Divefan: It looks like your M170 had railings and they
were removed. How much trouble was it? I've got a
buddy with an M170 who is thinking of taking the bow
railing off, and he'd heard that they are bedded in 5100
(tough stuff).

Hi big C,

Truth is I asked the dealer to remove all the rails before I took delivery. I spoke to the guy that did the work. He said you have to use a certain type of product on the area that is mated to the deck BEFORE you even begin to loosen the screws. If you don't you run the risk of possibly pulling some surface gelcoat off with the railing. I don't believe it's 5100/5200. It is some other type of sealer that can be removed easily using the right stuff. It can be done if you are careful. WT on the CW site has taken his railing off on the bow also. Best bet may be to call Whaler in Edgewater, FL and ask exactly what the stuff is and what is to be used. This way he won't mess it up. Or, call Lauderdale Marina in Ft Lauderdale, FL. That's where I had mine done. I am sure they will help you out.

It is really great running the boat with no rails for the area where I live. We have relatively short runs to the dive sites. So, I opted for outright convenience of entry. Hey, if a bass boat can run eighty gazillion miles an hour on an almost flat hull with no rails I guess I will be OK with the setup I have. :wink:

Good luck on the rails.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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