They're easy to tune. The full procedure is in one of the files you sent me a while back. The bumper sticker version is: 1) stop the leak at the adjustment pad, 2) remove play from the lever. As you tighten the lever it will start to leak again, so you'll end up with a very small amount of play.
You have to over-tighten the pad 1/4 turn or so, then back it out. This removes torque from the spring. I usually put a tiny touch of lube on each end of the spring to help keep it from sticking on the pad. I don't know if that helps or not.
I just set them to where there is consistently no leak after multiple cycles. They're very stable with regards to case fault geometry, so there's no worry about freeflows in some positions because they're tuned too hot.
