Scuba Pro Mark 5 seat question

[Couv]

OK, if we are disclosing secrets I'll share this one. But know this-you'll die if you try this.

Index mark the seat retainer on the inside and the seat so it can be reinstalled in the exact same place. Next, index mark the outside of the seat retainer and the body for the same reason. Now that you can reinstall the same seat in exactly the same position you can remove it (remember to coat it with a little lube for ease of removal) and sand a bit off the back (opposite of the part that interfaces with the piston) to raise the IP.

Remember, this is done only for non-diving regulators such as potato cannon and automobile tire inflation, as scuba regulators are life support and you'll die if you take it under water.

 

[halocline]

I was able to a handful of "+" seats from a friendly dealer who had them in a drawer, left over from servicing customers' regs that needed the taller seats. I'd be a little concerned about sanding or grinding the backs of the taller seats, for the same reason as adding shims under the seat retainer; it can compromise that HP seat o-ring seal, and that one IME is a little touchy to begin with. I guess using those red crush seals from MK10 kits might help, I've never had one of those leak. I wonder if there's a source for seals like that.

 

[Couv]

I was able to a handful of "+" seats from a friendly dealer who had them in a drawer, left over from servicing customers' regs that needed the taller seats. I'd be a little concerned about sanding or grinding the backs of the taller seats, for the same reason as adding shims under the seat retainer; it can compromise that HP seat o-ring seal, and that one IME is a little touchy to begin with. I guess using those red crush seals from MK10 kits might help, I've never had one of those leak. I wonder if there's a source for seals like that.

Apologies if I did not explain the above clearly.

Sand/trim the part of the seat that fits into the seat retainer. For instance, in the case of your seats you would be sanding off the "+" symbol and a little more material. By making the seat shorter you increase the IP.

Good news for your other question. Bryan at vintagedoublehose.com is having aftermarket high pressure seat seals manufactured.

 

[halocline]

Apologies if I did not explain the above clearly.

Sand/trim the part of the seat that fits into the seat retainer. For instance, in the case of your seats you would be sanding off the "+" symbol and a little more material. By making the seat shorter you increase the IP.

.

No, you were clear. I believe that only the cone in the center is higher on the taller seats, the area around the edges is the same thickness on all the seat sizes. I assume this is to provide equal distance for capturing the HP seat o-ring (013 I think) regardless of the seat thickness. I have found this o-ring to be a bit temperamental at times; you have really make sure it is well set. If you sand the back of the seat, you're effectively increasing the distance between that area around the edges of the seat and the opposing land in the body where this o-ring gets captured.

I'm glad Bryan is getting those crush seals made, the SP red ones work great and they're very easy to install.

 

[NotSure]

I see no need for the red seals, a -013 pressed in dry with a 3/8" nut driver as described in a old post by one of the usual suspects works fine, A little lube on the face before installing the seat retainer is ok but don't even try to lube the oring before install or it will get misaligned.

 

[Bryan@Vintage Double Hose]

Good news for your other question. Bryan at vintagedoublehose.com is having aftermarket high pressure seat seals manufactured.

I am constantly trying to improve my offerings to the community.....With that said, I have some really nice seat seal samples that were made for me by the company that makes all my other special seats and seals. Unfortunately when they waterjet cut the new seals the ID is not 100% symetrical. The OD, thickness and durometer are spot on and I have been torturing the samples in regulators for months now and they work without fail. The reason they are not already in the service kits is I dont want to hear the whining and complaing about the ID. Even thought it has zero effect on the sealing ability the negative BS it would create is not worth the expense and headaches it would cause me. I have put them in 30 some MK5's with stellar results.
My only other option is to pay for a mold and that is a money looser all the way around as I would never see a return at the price I charge for kits now.

 

[Bryan@Vintage Double Hose]

Duplicate