Low flow through S600

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update, final entry:

The tool I got was basic but seemingly well crafted. No complex parts, but no significant tooling marks, burrs, etc.
Not sure if it's a hard brass alloy, or brass colored steel.

Dimensions follow to the best of my ability if someone wants to try to make one; I didn't have an angle gauge/protractor, so I tried to provide the most precise measurements in case someone wanted to plot it in a virtual measurement software.

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update, actual final entry due to image number rules-

The most interesting thing about the tool was that the vane slot wasn't cut as a straight/uniform cut. Instead, the length of the slot on the outer radius of the curve was a lot longer than that of the inner radius.
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I'm sure someone a lot smarter than I could figure out the cut, but in the meantime i'd just say- it seems quite a bit more involved than just chucking some rod stock in a vise and cutting a slot in it. And at about $15, I don't think it's a poor decision to just get the regular one.

Anyhow, this is the promised conclusion to all the problems I had with the S600 this summer. Will update if swapping out a metal barrel changes anything, but in the meantime my biggest takeaway is that the vane reversal really DOES seem to make a big difference, and I VERY much appreciate all of the insight and advice you all provided me in dealing with this!
 
So I’ve been struggling with the flow vane removal for the last half an hour and on the verge of giving up. It seems to me the version of the tool from scuba-clinic in Phuket is not compatible with the S600 due to the length of the smaller leg with the notch being too long… (compared to the scubatools version above) I am unable to use the inside of the mouthpiece as a fulcrum. After so much struggle all I am seeing and damage to the smooth surface of the the flow vane and plastic is now all scratched up … 😣
Even if I have to replace it with a new one I need the right tool to work with which is likely to be $15 + $30 international shipping + 42% custom duty on top … 😒

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Or possibly I just lack the technique and finesse…

PS: Can I use sandpaper to smoothen it out? Does it work with plastic surfaces?
 
So I’ve been struggling with the flow vane removal for the last half an hour and on the verge of giving up. It seems to me the version of the tool from scuba-clinic in Phuket is not compatible with the S600 due to the length of the smaller leg with the notch being too long… (compared to the scubatools version above) I am unable to use the inside of the mouthpiece as a fulcrum. After so much struggle all I am seeing and damage to the smooth surface of the the flow vane and plastic is now all scratched up … 😣
Even if I have to replace it with a new one I need the right tool to work with which is likely to be $15 + $30 international shipping + 42% custom duty on top … 😒

View attachment 878030View attachment 878031

View attachment 878032View attachment 878033
View attachment 878040

Or possibly I just lack the technique and finesse…

PS: Can I use sandpaper to smoothen it out? Does it work with plastic surfaces?
This is your own reg? Stop messing with it this can go years before you need to change it.
 
This is your own reg? Stop messing with it this can go years before you need to change it.

Up-thread he said something about reversing the flow vane for improved performance....
 
Up-thread he said something about reversing the flow vane for improved performance....
I have never been able to tell any difference with this style of vane, not even in predive, I guess a cracked case will mate well with the unfortunate MK 25.
 
So I’ve been struggling with the flow vane removal for the last half an hour and on the verge of giving up. It seems to me the version of the tool from scuba-clinic in Phuket is not compatible with the S600 due to the length of the smaller leg with the notch being too long… (compared to the scubatools version above) I am unable to use the inside of the mouthpiece as a fulcrum. After so much struggle all I am seeing and damage to the smooth surface of the the flow vane and plastic is now all scratched up … 😣
Even if I have to replace it with a new one I need the right tool to work with which is likely to be $15 + $30 international shipping + 42% custom duty on top … 😒

View attachment 878030View attachment 878031

View attachment 878032View attachment 878033
View attachment 878040

Or possibly I just lack the technique and finesse…

PS: Can I use sandpaper to smoothen it out? Does it work with plastic surfaces?
I can't see exact which Flow Vane Removal Tool you are using, but looks like the one SP is selling nowadays here in Europe ( the one from Scuba Clinic instead the one of Scubatools), almost completely useless.

Problem is the thickness of the tool and the almost 90' ancle, the tool is too thin, difficult to handle.
Even with the old SP tools from Scubatools sometimes it can be quite frustating to work on a stubborn Flow Vane, but with these ones you can get the job done and remove it at least without damaging anything.
I bought me one of Scuba Clinic from SP Europe, because I had my old ones still in the Carribean, can't find it anymore for comparison, and I'm happy that my old ones were sent to me.
Apart from the tool it is important to try to get liquid silicone to the o-ring by spraying it into the mouth piece shank and playing with the vane.
The other problem is getting the new vane into place, it can be really annoying, sometimes I have to use a vise to get the vane with the new o-ring clicked into the housing.
Also there don't forget the liquid silicone........
So don't worry, you're for sure not the only frustated one with this job using the Scuba Clinic Tool.......
Good luck!
 
Sigh! Ok I think I will just leave it alone - just need to figure how to smoothen the scratches on the flow vane.

Is this Scuba Clinic Flow Vane removal tool the one being sold in EU now? That’s the one I got …
 
Before I had one, I had good luck using bent nose needle nose pliers. They allowed you to grip the vane, and the only thing you needed was a small block behind the angle point to move the lever to the left, since the tips were shorter than the Scubatools tool. The angle is about perfect.
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