Round boot or octagonal?

[JackD342]

I have had that same problem, did not force the boot. My suspicion is that the tolerance of the boot production sometimes conflicts with the tolerance of cylinder production. If I remember correctly, it was an older cylinder I couldn’t get it to fit.

 

[pauldw]

I didn’t stand it on its valve! Not that dumb.

 

[WarrenZ]

You worried me when you broke out the hammer and block of wood.

 

[pauldw]

I put it sideways on my lap, and instead of trying to tap on the plastic boot, but a pine scrap of plank across it and tried to tap gently to ease it on. But what the tank started doing caused me to pause.

 

[SandyRobinson]

Maybe too late but did you consider not using a boot which would reduce the likelihood of rust from trapped water.

 

[pauldw]

Maybe too late but did you consider not using a boot which would reduce the likelihood of rust from trapped water.

It's steel, so the bottom is rounded. Needs a boot for when I stand it up.

 

[happy-diver]

boil it man

 

[SandyRobinson]

It's steel, so the bottom is rounded. Needs a boot for when I stand it up.

I understand that. I have a number of steels but do not use boots on them. I just stand them up in the corner or make sure they are bungeed.

 

[W W Meixner]

A few months ago I got an HP100. Before, I'd rented AL80s. The 80s typically came with an octagonal boot. My assumption was to keep them from rolling. The HP100 came with a round boot, rather low profile. Perhaps it's a tad less likely to get the lip hung up on something, although it certainly doesn't stop the tank from rolling. Is there any advantage I'm missing in having the round boot, as opposed to getting a boot with an octagonal rim instead?

PD...

For round bottom tanks...either/or is a personal preference....

When I was diving doubles...I preferred boots as it made standing easier than leaning...I used a small carpenters block plane and planed off all the corners...with the more recent Faber tanks rubber smoothies have become more common...unfortunately they do not flush out as well as the plastic ''octagonal'' type...and are prone to plugging if your not careful...it dosen't hurt to drill additional holes on the bottom...the larger the hole the better...

Remove the boots...which ever design you choose as often as possible for proper cleaning...especially if your doing mucky shore dives or salt water dives...

Deep corrosion from boot removal inspection neglect is one of the more common reasons for visual inspectors to fail steel tanks...

Forget about boots altogether if you're diving with flat bottom tanks...just exercise a little more care when you're setting them down on hard surfaces...

Best...

Warren

 

[OBXDIVEGUY]

I vote no boots. They trap salt, even after a solid rinse and that is where you'll get corrosion. Just lay the tanks down, like you're supposed to do anyway.