REVIEW: CREE MC-E Diving Light

[adm3745]

I am due to order the one with the P7 led. Has anyone tested how deep these torches can go before the lens implodes? If the o-rings are tightend correctly, I think the lens is the weakest link...

Mine made it to 140 ft so far.

I'm having a new problem with mine. It won't turn completely off. In the standby mode I am getting a very low dim. I can stare at the LED and still discern the 4 dies so it's not to bright.

Any idea why this might happen? I gutted it a few days ago and bought a new reed switch so I can make a can light out of the head. I figure it's easier than sending it back to DX.

 

[gcbryan]

I've never been too clear about the standby mode in the first place. On the one hand I would just assume it's really just another term for "off" but on the other hand it says to take the batteries out if you aren't going to use the flashlight for a long period of time so it must use some power.

When you say it's dim, it's still more than just a glow in the dark thing to locate the light?

I'd like to understand more about how the light works. I understand leds and power requirements and series vs parallel circuits and a bit about (very little) regarding the drivers...constant current, buck converter, etc.

I don't entirely understand the magnetic switch, how the switching modes work, and how all this is affected by temp and pressure.

I'd like to know what the possible causes are for the various problems people have reported. It seems to be different problems with each light.

Some have problems with the mode ring rotating when the head is screwed on tight. Some (including me) have a problem after about 20 fsw with a dimming light. You are having a problem with the standby aspect. Others have a loose bezel at depth.

The only floods have been due to the bezel coming loose otherwise there have been no broken lens or compromised o-rings which would be the more usual and expected failure points.

I don't understand the possible causes for each of these things.

Mine made it to 140 ft so far.

I'm having a new problem with mine. It won't turn completely off. In the standby mode I am getting a very low dim. I can stare at the LED and still discern the 4 dies so it's not to bright.

Any idea why this might happen? I gutted it a few days ago and bought a new reed switch so I can make a can light out of the head. I figure it's easier than sending it back to DX.

 

[adm3745]

I made 10 great deep dives on mine. The dim standby is a new problem. The light on standby used to be completely off. Now it's a glow. Definately not supposed to be there. I don't know if there was a magnetic interference or what. The problem started on the surface randomly which adds more confusion.

The driver looks like it has 4 reed switches located on the main driver board. I'll take a few pics of the driver if anyone is interested. If I can get close enough pics, maybe some electronics guys can tell how the entire circuit works...

 

[gcbryan]

I made 10 great deep dives on mine. The dim standby is a new problem. The light on standby used to be completely off. Now it's a glow. Definitely not supposed to be there. I don't know if there was a magnetic interference or what. The problem started on the surface randomly which adds more confusion.

The driver looks like it has 4 reed switches located on the main driver board. I'll take a few pics of the driver if anyone is interested. If I can get close enough pics, maybe some electronics guys can tell how the entire circuit works...

I'm definitely interested. Please post them here so everyone can see as you mentioned perhaps it will provide more info to someone who is able to diagnose the problem.

 

[mksmith713]

Damn, you guys have me regretting this purchase and I haven't even gotten my light yet.

 

[skyydiiver]

The standby power usage was discussed several pages ago. The easiest way to fix is just to remove the batteries after the day of diving, which should not be an issue since you have to remove the batteries to charge them anyway. I just wait until I am ready to dive to put the charged batteries in. So far mine has had no issues but I may have been lucky and got a good one. Overall, I am very happy with my light and if my bezel comes loose, I'll simply put some loc-tite on it and call it good. So far it has been worth every cent of the $82 I paid for it (i got mine before the price went up) and is every bit as bright as my friends $600 night rider so... I say get one, use it, and remember that you always get what you pay for. If you want something more reliable, pay $500 - $1000 and get proven quality.

 

[gcbryan]

Damn, you guys have me regretting this purchase and I haven't even gotten my light yet.

If there are no problems you won't regret it at all. I like this like enough that even if I can't fix it and have to return it I"m still going to stay with it until I get one with no problems.

It's a well made light in general. There is something about some of them (mine) that pressure is affecting and artificially reducing the current. The batteries are producing the current so it's either the magnetic switching or the driver. If it works in the house and isn't leaking underwater it's got to be something fixable.

I have a Light Cannon (10 w HID) and I had no problems with it. I like it but after diving this light I am intent on solving this problem because on my last night dive using this light I enjoyed it far more than with the LC. Much more natural light and a little wider beam so I could see a lot more. I have 100's of dives at night with the LC and this Cree light is better.

 

[gcbryan]

The standby power usage was discussed several pages ago. The easiest way to fix is just to remove the batteries after the day of diving, which should not be an issue since you have to remove the batteries to charge them anyway. I just wait until I am ready to dive to put the charged batteries in. So far mine has had no issues but I may have been lucky and got a good one. Overall, I am very happy with my light and if my bezel comes loose, I'll simply put some loc-tite on it and call it good. So far it has been worth every cent of the $82 I paid for it (i got mine before the price went up) and is every bit as bright as my friends $600 night rider so... I say get one, use it, and remember that you always get what you pay for. If you want something more reliable, pay $500 - $1000 and get proven quality.

I agree and actually, I'm not aware of a directly comparable product from an established dive light manufacturer. That's the problem. If you want a $400 clunky UK AquaSun led light in a big plastic housing that's the closest product that I know of. If you want a dive light with half of the output then you can get smaller ones that you can mount hands free.

If you want a comparable light then you can get a cannister light. If you want a minimum 500 lumen hand held dive light of this size with a 2 hour burn time on high...good luck finding one from an existing dive light manufacturer.

 

[DennisKW]

I agree and actually, I'm not aware of a directly comparable product from an established dive light manufacturer. That's the problem. If you want a $400 clunky UK AquaSun led light in a big plastic housing that's the closest product that I know of. If you want a dive light with half of the output then you can get smaller ones that you can mount hands free.

If you want a comparable light then you can get a cannister light. If you want a minimum 500 lumen hand held dive light of this size with a 2 hour burn time on high...good luck finding one from an existing dive light manufacturer.

I agree completely as well. I couldn't find anything comparable and even the $500++ lights are a horrible use of space and don't use the latest advances in LED's and batteries to maximize output, runtime, or size.

What would the pressure be inside a sealed tube at depth? Maybe the (most likely cheap) OEM batteries are having internal chemistry issues with the pressure? My friends and I are having no issues but we are also using better, well reviewed best in class batteries. There is lots of info on the general shoddy construction of most cheap Li-ion batteries. This would seem to be the weak link as opposed to common off the shelf integrated circuits used in the switching mechanism.

These are the accepted best 18650 protected batteries
AW 18650 Protected 2200 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery

These are newer with even longer runtime, but you have to REALLY know how to solder to add a button top to them to use in these lights. Be careful!
AW 18650 Protected 2600 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery - New Version

Just another idea...

Dennis.

 

[adm3745]

The pressure will be equal to when you put the batteries in on land. Maybe a hair more at depth. Pressure should not be an issue.

mksmith this is a fantastic light. For $81 nothing else even compares. It is better than most 10w HIDS I have dove with especially in high viz places that we get alot here in Florida. IF you have a problem it is still worth the hassle because of the low cost...

In reference to mine, I'll take the driver pics when I get home this evening. I have been direct driving the P7 with 4 18650 in parallel for now. It is alot brighter than the current driven version.
I just addded my own reed switch in the existing light head so I can still use the magnetic switch.
One good way to salvage a broken light instead of going through DX....