Repair Canister Light Cord

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Random Dude

Contributor
Messages
135
Reaction score
46
Location
Malaysia
# of dives
25 - 49
Hi all, recently bought my first canister light, just to try out the feeling of one.

However, there seems to be an issue with the cord, since I bought it second hand. The light only lights up when I position the cord (battery side) in a certain way. Was thinking whether it's possible for me to repair this by either splicing the wires or replacing them.

The light is a cheap chinese light, and it seems to me that the connectors cannot be removed (I may be mistaken though).

Would appreciate it if anyone can give advice on this, thanks in advance!
 
Is that positioning the cord outside the canister or inside the canister.

Next i would not repair any cord outside the canister confines. i would replace and never repair.
 
Outside, I can unscrew the strain relief, but not to sure whether I can unscrew beyond that.

I added a few pics. The first one is when the strain relief is still on, the second one is when it is unscrewed
WhatsApp Image 2018-05-26 at 10.31.45 PM (2).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-05-26 at 10.31.45 PM (2).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2018-05-26 at 10.31.45 PM (1).jpeg
 
Is the break near the strain-relief ? If so, you can just pull the cord through the connector, cut it just above the break, reattach, and tighten the Nut (don't got nuts on the nut re-tightening)
 
Last edited:
If it's like other can lights of similar price, you can disassemble it from the inside, pull the wire through the gland you just loosened and resolder it shorter. Careful, they sometimes pot the electronics in epoxy.

Splicing an underwater cable has been done successfully, but isn't ideal if there's another solution.
 
Thanks for the reply!
Any ideas on how to even open the canister? From the inside, I only see 2 small pinholes, is it where I open from? Or is it from the outside? Cannot see any obvious screws anywhere.
 
Thanks for the reply!
Any ideas on how to even open the canister? From the inside, I only see 2 small pinholes, is it where I open from? Or is it from the outside? Cannot see any obvious screws anywhere.

You'll need some approximation of this for unscrewing via the two pinholes. Two finishing nails in a chunk of hardwood works (use a wrench on the wooden shaft if you need some torque to get it started):
s-l300.jpg


And you'll find this diagram helpful in tracking your project's process:
repairs_2x.png
 
Before you do anything, turn on the switch and fiddle with the cable 'til you find, or don't find, a break.My money is in my pocket.
 
FYI : recently I read some interesting review of cords

Die neuen T/C Thor Cords (E/O Cord)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
probably is switching electronics right in front of cable gland ( at least hall switches and PCB ) :yeahbaby:
 
Last edited:
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom