Regulators - Looking for suggestions

[ams511]

@noj3333 I also like manufacturer's closeouts. I picked up some TUSA and Subgear regulators (both made by Scubapro) cheap. Before Halcyon switched to the ugly style faceplates their old style regulators were being discounted heavily at Extreme Exposure.

 

[MrVegas]

Because she is in Atlanta, Diver's Supply is a local shop. The best deals I have seem so far are from them. If she needs something for cold water then this is a deal. If not then this is even less expensive.

I have the Sea Elite Covert regulator and like it very much. Does anyone know whether this is actually the same as the Hog D2 regulator? I only ask because the pictures see to be exactly the same, except with a different face plate on the Hog.

 

[runsongas]

made by the same oem, but @cerich may have some specifics if hog implemented any specific changes to the base design from the oem

 

[ams511]

I have the Sea Elite Covert regulator and like it very much. Does anyone know whether this is actually the same as the Hog D2 regulator? I only ask because the pictures see to be exactly the same, except with a different face plate on the Hog.

The Sea Elite has a plastic air barrel, the Hog's is metal. I think the first stage of the D2 is sealed but the Sea Elite's is not. Neither will affect performance.

 

[ScubaWithTurk]

Yet another vote for Deep 6! I have used Dive Rite, UTD, Deep 6, ScubaPro and Atomic (ST-1)

I found the Atomic, SP and Deep 6 to be the best IMO with the Deep 6 being the best priced. As a matter of fact, in my avatar I have Deep 6 regs as I am about to do a 50 meter trimix dive. I can't say enough good things about the products and the company as a whole.

 

[MrVegas]

The Sea Elite has a plastic air barrel, the Hog's is metal. I think the first stage of the D2 is sealed but the Sea Elite's is not. Neither will affect performance.

Thanks! (It doesn't look like the basic D2 is sealed in the pictures, but can't tell for sure.) Anyway, I was just curious. I took the PADI equipment specialist course and was glad to learn about how to make the minor adjustments to regulator performance, but after taking a regulator apart and putting one back together (not mine), I realized I am happy to pay for someone else's time and tools to deal with a full service. I could do it, but I imagine it would look like most of my home improvement projects -- (1) start; (2) realize I need a different tool; (3) buy different tool; (4) realize it is still the wrong tool and buy new one; (5) break one of the parts in the kit; (6) buy new kit; (7) finally finish it OK, but wish I had just paid someone else to do it.

I just find the whole "black box" aspect of regulator schematics, parts, and servicing very odd.

 

[ams511]

I just find the whole "black box" aspect of regulator schematics, parts, and servicing very odd.

You are not the only one.

According to this video, the D2 is sealed, that is what I went by.

My understanding is HOG is owned by the same person/people that own Diver's Supply. The classic HOG with a D2 first is a copy of an Apeks ATX-50 (without the micro adjuster) and a DS-4 first. Like Apeks, I guess Diver's Supply decided they wanted a lower-cost regulator and came up with the Sea Elite model. This would be similar to the Apeks AT-series.

I wouldn't let the tools scare you off if you are interested in regulator repair. For some, regulator repair is hobby in and of itself. If you service many different types of regulars, then you need many different types of tools. If you only service one type then you only need one set of tools. If you pick a regulator that does not require a bunch a specialized tools then you are ahead of the game at the start. If you know what and where to buy then you could have your tools for less than the labor charge of a new service.

If you are interested, then I recommend looking at some of the Apeks DIY threads and purchasing the Vance Harlow book. The Apeks service manual is on Frogkick.dk. The HOG schematics are posted on various sites. I believe you can also attend a Hog regulator repair course.

 

[MrVegas]

Thanks once again! I will check some of that info out. Sort of back to the OP's point -- I have given some thought to buying a used regulator for a backup or, frankly, just for kicks to take apart and see if I can get it back together successfully. However, if I am going to take it for service, and then (depending on what pieces are being sold) maybe add an SPG, inflator hose, and octo, it looks like the price has to be awfully low to compete with buying a regulator "package" (HOG, Sea Elite, DGX, Deep 6, etc.).

I like the Sea Elite a lot, but might buy HOG next time, since that seems to be a bit more "open" in terms of service.

 

[ams511]

I like the Sea Elite a lot, but might buy HOG next time, since that seems to be a bit more "open" in terms of service.

While I cannot be 100% certain, I would expect the Sea Elite regulators to be serviced and use the same parts kits as their HOG brothers. These regulators are imported from either Taiwan or China and are fairly standard.

Even among brand name regulators the parts are fairly interchangeable. For example, the seats on your Sea Elite second stage are the same as what is on an Apeks or Scubapro. For first stages, people were using Hog kits in their Apeks regulators, even though Hog discouraged the practice.

If you want a set of regs to play with, your best bet is to lurk a bit in the DIY area and then ask one of the regulars if they have something to sell. The most popular regulators for self-service are the Conshelf/Titan series from US Divers/Aqualung and the Scubapro G250/G200/BA/109 with a MK-5/10. The reason is you can purchase the parts fairly inexpensively. However, given you like Sea Elite and Hog I would recommend the older Apeks TX or ATX series or the older Zeagles (that were re-branded Apeks). You can get the parts from NESS or Scuba Gaskets.

 

[buddhasummer]

@noj3333 I also like manufacturer's closeouts. I picked up some TUSA and Subgear regulators (both made by Scubapro) cheap. Before Halcyon switched to the ugly style faceplates their old style regulators were being discounted heavily at Extreme Exposure.

Andy, I thought Tusa were the ones making SP and Subgear (what an unfortunate name)