Regulator for diving in a marina?

[jbuck88]

Well I got my first dive in. I ended up with a mk25/s600 combo.

I don't plan on doing anything major, as far as prop pulling or anything like that. I will be doing a bottom survey of the marina and repairing the water lines. I also want to be able to change zinc and cut lines out of people's wheels.

I was able to get my first boat up. It had been abandoned for the last 4 months.

 

[sealark]

Changing props will sometimes go along with cutting lines out if there's damage to the wheel. Good luck with your adventure.

 

[USdiver1]

Conshelf first stage with an environmental (sealed) kit (called a Conshelf Supreme by USD). Can be had in several iterations with up to four lp ports, an oversized 1/2 primary LP port, all oversized LP ports and one or two hp ports. You will be diving in cold water therefore I would recommend a plastic second stage over a metal one for two reasons: 1) you mentioned working on boats and doing surveys, if you are inverted (back down, mouth up - common with boat work) you will be swallowing the condensate in your second stage (wet-breathing); 2) a metal second stage makes much more condensate in cold water (in any water) than does a plastic second stage.

I've done quite a bit of harbor work, and my regulator of choice is a USD Conshelf Supreme SE (three oversized lp ports, one hp port).

Conshelf regulators are bulletproof reliable and will work in even the nastiest conditions. Reliability is what you want when diving in a marina (or anywhere for that matter).



Nice re-floating job on the sunken cabin cruiser. Find any lobster aboard?

 

[divezonescuba]

I don't think anyone mentioned this yet. If you do a lot of hull cleaning particularly at the waterline, you need to get a two cup suction bar like the one harbor freight sells. This allows you to push against the side of the hull.

Something else, working on vessels underwater can be quite demanding. Including cleaning props, changing zincs. Don't overbreathe your regulator.

 

[fstbttms]

I hope you understand the high risk for electrical shock when working underwater around boats, especially those with metal hulls? Big risk. Be careful please!

Electric Shock Drowning (ESD) occurs almost exclusively in freshwater. It is virtually unheard of in saltwater. That said, it is always a good idea to make sure any boat you work on is unplugged from the shorepower.

I don't think anyone mentioned this yet. If you do a lot of hull cleaning particularly at the waterline, you need to get a two cup suction bar like the one harbor freight sells. This allows you to push against the side of the hull.

Or make your own. Cheaper, more durable, better.