Regulator for diving in a marina?

[dumpsterDiver]

I think that you will be better served by having two sets.
I recommended the Conshelf not because it's cheap (although it is) but because I can't think of a better reg for your purpose......okay, an old Sherwood is a close 2nd, but for overall dependability, ruggedness, performance and readily available parts I'd still go with a Conshelf.

Yeah either of those regs would be fine, and you could probably buy 5 of them for the price of a high end new regulator - which will probably be more finicky and may require more expensive and frequent service.

I used the sherwood first stage for golf ball diving for years. 2-3 tanks per day , 3 days per week for years.. with nothing more than putting grease on the piston O-ring... Think I normally used an old Dacor second stage and probably flipped a seat or two.. The amount of breathing cycles I would put a reg through when diving 3-15 ft is much more than normal deeper scuba diving. 4 hours of underwater use per day.

 

[Ghetto Diver]

Dumpster and Fishpie have the answer.
I used to dive a marina out of necessity, not a job. I swear, I spent more time under my boat than actually on it. Between cleaning, dropping rudder, swapping screw, and changing zincs. I have since threw in the towel and sold it [happy face.jpg]
I have a Conshelf XIV first + Sherwood Brut second for this purpose. Although my boat was in a marina, there were plenty of a#$holes that did not comply with the no-wake zone requirement. This of course resulted in multiple melon bumps. After the first incident, I started using a linesman helmet.
Besides the warning about the electrisicals, that crap in the water will get in your ears, and may cause swimmers ear or whatever the fungus is called.
Good luck!

 

[rivers]

apeks atx40 and a ds-4

 

[ReefGuy]

Dude.. get an OLD Sherwood regulator, The Brut first stage is completely sealed, and even has a little rubber vent to allow bubbles to escape and ensure no water or silt (or contaminants) can possibly get into the regulator. I used one of these for golf ball diving for years, which was very dirty and silty water - they are perfect and cheap.

No way would I buy a new (or even expensive regulator) to be diving less than 30 feet in dirty water.. If you want to buy a used one of these regulators (for cheap) send me a PM. I can hook you up with a work horse reg that is super easy to service and maintain..

Second this. My regs are frequently bathed in various automotive contaminates (and body fluids, etc). Been using the same Sherwoods for 11 years now with no issue. Bullet proof and easily repaired in the field.

 

[kelemvor]

Second this. My regs are frequently bathed in various automotive contaminates (and body fluids, etc).

Real sorry for taking this thread off topic, but.... wtf? What kind of diving do you do?

 

[sealark]

I'm sure glad the internet wasn't around when I started diving and had to learn all these things on my own. Buddy just ignore everything you heard on here and go do you work with what you have now. You will learn what works and doesn't That is if you are not totally confused. Oh there isn't much danger from electricity when you are in the water. Why you ask, Because if there were any stray currents in the water every metal object attached to the bottom of boats would deteriorate at a very rapid rate and fall off if there was a short or stray currents.

 

[Couv]

Agree (mostly) with Sealark. But, I think you should spend a bit of time in the commercial diving section to get some answers from those who have been there/done that. As a former commercial diver, the first thing that came to mind reading your question was not the concern for the regulator but for your health. Protect yourself from what's in the water, particularly your eyes. I think a full face mask would be a good investment-especially one that has freeflow capabilities. Just a little fuel entering your mask and the fumes getting into your eyes can really make you think twice about working in that environment.

BTW I've bought a few regulators from Fishpie and they have always been better than advertised.

 

[jbuck88]

I am coming from working on big boats in Alaska, I'm sure after swimming in the bilge and all the diesel showers I'm already going to get "it". Whatever it is.

Thanks for all your guys help. I will look into what's around for full face masks, but I really would like to stick to the local dive shop as far as buying things. I prefer to spend money local if at all possible.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

I'm using a freebie Conshelf 21 paired with a Scubapro G200B which I like the best because it breaths upside down better than anything else in my line up. I only do about three boats now and I have them on a 4 month schedule, so I just still use a tank on an old plastic backpack (no wing). I should probably get a 50' line but it's hard for me to justify the cost with the little U/W work that I do. I don't mind a tank and it gives me a little more freedom to not have to manage a line.

You could really use any sort of reg, but the cheap or free ones are the best. If I didn't have the freebie Conshelf I'd probably be using my SP MK2 with the G200B. All your comfort and performance will be in the second stage anyway.
You don't need a high dollar reg to dive in a harbor.
If you went piston then a MK2 would be a better choice than a higher performer because the ambient pressure holes are bigger for better rinsing and they are dirt simple to tear down and clean or throw a kit in once in a while. Parts are cheap too.

 

[sealark]

Keane engineering hose floats and it's made for diving.It sure makes it easier than dragging that tank around trying to scrub a hull. Hard on the back. I can't wait to hear about your first prop change underwater. Please post before you start i'll give you some pointers. Never had any eye problems from diesel fuel and I have gotten a lot in my face. Just had caterac surgery at the age of 72 so that speaks for itself.