Question on dive watches

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The 'm' is not meter :(

It's some sick marketing trick: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_Resistant_mark

"100 m": Suitable for recreational surfing, swimming, snorkeling, sailing and water sports.
"200 m": Suitable for professional marine activity, serious surface water sports and skin diving.

If you want a dive watch, then consider Poseidon, Apeks, et.al.
Poseidon Watches
Apeks Products

The simpler the better.

The best analog non-electronic depth gauge I have found is from Oceanic:
http://www.snorkelingonline.com/oceanic-wrist-max-depth-gauge/

Pay close attention to the depth markings. This gauge is most accurate where it matters the most: at shallow depth. Pressure-linear, logarithmic in depth. That's wonderfull. I use an Oceanic depth gauge as backup and it really is usefull. My computer died on my latest dive (low batt, +1c) and I completed the dive with non-electronic gauges only.

I would recommend a basic large screen nitrox computer, though. A gauge mode is a bonus. Suunto Vyper is a good one. I have used it for more than 200 dives. Ice dives. Trimix. Caves. Sumps. Everything. Even the pool. It is a nitrox computer. For anything else (trimix, gas switches, ...) it must be used in 'gauge mode' while the plan is written on a slate. The screen sucks in darkness, but the LCD/OLED computers cost three times as much.

Some folks love tables and computer based planning and those may want something like an Xdeep bottom timer or Liquivision Xen. These bottom timers are absolutely wonderfull, but you'll need to know your time limits. You'll need to plan in advance and memorize max times for various depths.
 
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I've been diving with a $27 Timex Ironman from Wallyworld for the last 4 years. It's been to 122' with no problems. I've probably taken it on more than 200 dives in fresh and salt water.

My Timex Ironman has kept on ticking (well, digitally speaking) through many dives as well. But a friend of mine had his relatively new Ironman conk out on its first dive. The fact is, these types of watches are not reliable for diving.
 
My Timex Ironman has kept on ticking (well, digitally speaking) through many dives as well. But a friend of mine had his relatively new Ironman conk out on its first dive. The fact is, these types of watches are not reliable for diving.

They aren't reliable for diving but I don't worry and fret over one if I lose or break it.
 
They aren't reliable for diving but I don't worry and fret over one if I lose or break it.

Me neither. I even pack an extra one when I travel. But should the OP buy a cheap watch for his OW class plus a backup cheap watch? I think he's better off buying a dive computer rather than going the route of backing up an unreliable watch with another unreliable watch for his OW class. For his OW class, he ought to get something he can rely on to at least get him through the class and hopefully a few dives beyond that! The last thing he needs to be worrying about in his OW class is whether his watch might fail.

That said, if I'm not mistaken, neither a dive watch nor a dive computer is required equipment for most OW courses. If it is, the dive shop probably has loaners/rentals. I suspect most students just show up at OW class without having given the issue of timing their dives any forethought.
 
My Timex Ironman has kept on ticking (well, digitally speaking) through many dives as well. But a friend of mine had his relatively new Ironman conk out on its first dive. The fact is, these types of watches are not reliable for diving.

I don't disagree with you. But then again, I didn't buy it FOR diving...I just always forget to take it off. My primary and secondary computers are what I rely on while diving.

Still, $27 for a watch that has held up this long under some pretty trying conditions is pretty awesome.
 
I don't disagree with you. But then again, I didn't buy it FOR diving...I just always forget to take it off. My primary and secondary computers are what I rely on while diving.

Still, $27 for a watch that has held up this long under some pretty trying conditions is pretty awesome.

Okay, I guess your reply was intended as an advertisement for Timex and not as an attempt to answer the OPs question.

Why should anyone expect a SB thread to actually stick to answering the question originally asked when we can go off on all kinds of fun tangents? Silly me.
 
No, I have not yet taken the OW certification. I just wanted to do a little research ahead of time since I didn't know anything about SCUBA diving. All I knew about SCUBA diving before this, is that you have a tank filled with air that let's you breath underwater. I guess that's not really surprising considering that few people really know much about this sport (or maybe I'm just an idiot :wink:). Anyway, I am using dive tables for two reasons.

1. They are reliable (I realize that they are not 100% accurate).
2. I am 17 and have little money to spend on a dive computer outside of the cost of training.

Thanks for all of the help.

Ps.this is the friendliest forum I have ever been on.
For a little extra or actually the cost of a reasonable dive watch you could get an entry level dive computer.

Dive tables are good for dive planning. Usually this would consist of if I dive to "x" depth for "y" length of time then I have "z" level of nitrogen in my body. This assumes that you dove down to 60 feet, stayed there or shallower for the time your watch says. And yes, you need a timer such as a watch to determine how long your dive was. Analog dive watches have bezels that surround the face and only rotate in one direction. That is a built in safety feature so if the bezel moves you can only shorten your bottom time, not accidentally lengthen the time. Pilot watches for example have to rotate in both directions and would be unsuitable for diving.

Dive computers take into account a standard dive is not square but multilevel. You wind up going up and down from 60 feet and the computer tracks this and adjust accordingly for nitrogen loading. They effectively make it safer to lengthen your bottom time by only calculating the nitrogen loading for the depth you are actually at during the dive. So, if you spent part of your time at 65 feet, then went to 75 feet, then up to 45 feet, the computer takes all the depth and time considerations into account. Using table you would have had to calculate the whole dive for the deepest depth, say 75 feet, even if this was the shortest part of your dive.

A depth rated watch generally runs around $100 for the depth rated needed for scuba diving. And, unless it is specific for diving you run the risk that it can flood at depth due to the pressure of the water. I hear from divers that even inexpensive dive watches have flooded. Then you have to ask the practical question of even if my Rolex is able to go under water do I really want to dive with a $2,000 watch?

If you look around internet scuba shops such as Scuba.com, Scubatoys.com, Leisurepro.com to name my favorites you might be able to find an entry level dive computer under the used or open box demo gear. It's a little like a swap meet, inventory and pricing varies but you can find a really good deal if one is available. I bought a dive computer for about $125 at Scubatoys in their used section. Look around, might actually be about the same or at the very least not prohibitively more.
 
But a friend of mine had his relatively new Ironman conk out on its first dive. The fact is, these types of watches are not reliable for diving.

Not all Ironman watches are rated to 200 meters.
 

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