PST, Worthington or Asahi... What am I getting?

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PerroneFord:
About 1.5". The 95s stand me on my head. The 104s I tried were worse. I have not had a chance to try any 130s.

The Worthington 108s were nearly perfect. The 121s will probably be good too. It's a LOT easier to move a tank *up* in the bands to try to alleviate some leg heavy tendencies than to to maneuver weighting around because you are head heavy with the bands pushed to the crown of the tanks...
I bought an Agir 38lbs doubles wing and tried it out for ~5 minutes with double LP95s a few weekends ago. Pushed me immediately into a head's down vertical position. That was with the wing at the 'highest' point from the 3 holes to choose from. I'll try it again this coming weekend in the other sets of mounting holes to see if they trim out better.
My old DR Classic Wing in the center hole + double LP95s = perfect trim for me.
edit: I'm probably going to double up my Al80s and use the 38lbs wing for them for the time being...
 
My DR Classic in the middle with LP108s were pefect for me... and that's what I dove in class. I'd really like to try the Evolve 60 and see how that does.
 
Thanks everyone for the great information! Special thanks to under3483 for the very detailed specs and comparison.

I just spoke with the shop owner and she is ordering a pair of Worthingtons for me. I also forwarded this thread to her so she can have this information available when she needs it.

I should have my new Worthingtons sometime next week. :D Yeay!
 
2014 Feb data point. Just received two new Sherwood (Asahi) HP Steel 100's.
1. Stamped as 3442 psi tanks, not 3500
1.1 DOT approved
1.2 still SPUN type mfg method. Stamped also as made in JAPAN, which gives some comfort, given usual Japan quality culture. (especially as opposed to China crap quality culture, eg toxic baby formula :-(
2. came with DIN/Yoke combo valve. ("Harrison" brand. Made in China though so I may get some diff ones. Any opinions?)
2.1 I need to go measure the valve but I wonder if 2014 valve- thread is now the standard one.
3. Zinc coating is not hot-dipped, but zinc paint is no slouch after researching/talking to ZRC, a galvanized paint maker that has been recommended on the sboard. "Galvilite" is the ZRC 'repair' version of the paint which is DIY roller or brush, or spray-can too. The only diff is the repair version is more silvery than gray. (on amazon btw.) After either hot-dipped, or cold paint... zinc coatings cured for 14 days+, the zinc chemically oxidizes/chemically hardens the exact same way. Keep that hardened surface free of dings and scratches by good maintenance, and it should last a longgg time.

(Don't dive till any touch-up paint is cured, as zinc is porous till it hardens!) Zinc hot or cold paint can be scratched. Use ZRC Gavilite paint for any scratches.

~3 lbs negative is actually an advantage for cold water diving, as even less lead to fuss with, esp coupled with stainless steel BP/W setup, it results in even less lead, is good for dry suit diving in cold water anyway, maybe not so much for warm water divers.

I'm fussy about maintenance/after-dive care, so they should last well, eg take the tank boots off between dives. I ordered a half-pint can of ZRC Gavlilite for in case of touch-ups, eg a seal exit scratch ;-).

BTW - ZRC has excellent how to cold-galvanized paint guides and specs, even one for scuba tank touch-up if you email them. guides are at Product Data Sheets
 
Agree

I want a tank with the exterior of a PST (Worthington aren't quite as good) and the internals of a Faber (much better than PST or Worthington)
Do you like the way Faber finishes the interior, and if so what is lacking iyo with the interiors of PST and Worthington?
 
Do you like the way Faber finishes the interior, and if so what is lacking iyo with the interiors of PST and Worthington?
Yes, fabers tanks inside tend to rust less easily based on decades in the industry. Faber tanks are however more likely to rust outside when they get paint chipped or scratched than hot dipped gal on outside. It's the process in manuf that faber does.
 
Yes, fabers tanks inside tend to rust less easily based on decades in the industry. Faber tanks are however more likely to rust outside when they get paint chipped or scratched than hot dipped gal on outside. It's the process in manuf that faber does.
Oh ok. Thanks for the useful info. Always learning
 

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