Problem with Aqualung Titan LX

[svs]

I have ~ 5 yo, ~100 dives Titan LX. On a first dive after annual exam it started to free flow. Not a violent free flow but more then a single string of bubbles. I was able to finish dive but it felt a little uncomfortable. Flow can be stopped by turning air off but starts again after few breath, sometime OK at the surface but starts in the water. Affects only 2nd stage, octopus works fine. I took reg to a dive shop (same where it was purchased) they unscrew second stage from a hose, tighten something inside connector and it worked fine during next 3 dives. Well, on a fourth dive problem started again exactly as described above. What can be wrong? I am afraid if I take it to a dive shop again they will tighten it a little more and it may behave again for a while. But my concern is: for how long? If it can quit again at any moment it may present with major inconvenience depending of a situation. So questions are: Does anybody experienced the same problem? Are any parts/rings inside a connector between second stage and a hose which can be broken/can be replaced?

 

[Cave Bum]

I have ~ 5 yo, ~100 dives Titan LX... {It started freeflowing...}

I took reg to a dive shop (same where it was purchased) they unscrew second stage from a hose, tighten something inside connector and it worked fine during next 3 dives.

Well, they didn't 'tighten' something, that's the adjustment for the downstream poppit valve in the second stage. That's where you adjust the pressure it takes to 'crack' the valve. For most downstream poppit designs the cracking pressure is 1 1/4" of water column. In other words, if you fill a dish pan with water and start to submerge your second stage with the mouth piece facing up (when it's hooked to a tank and pressurized OF COURSE!), it should start to free flow when the diaphragm is 1 1/4" under the water.

If they just 'adjusted it on the fly' without checking it with a gauge or in a water bath, they may not have gotten it adjusted correctly...

Also, they may not have cleaned it sufficiently during overhaul and it could be sticking open after a few uses but then you would expect that it was doing that before overhaul, too if that was the problem.

 

[svs]

If they just 'adjusted it on the fly' without checking it with a gauge or in a water bath, they may not have gotten it adjusted correctly...

Also, they may not have cleaned it sufficiently during overhaul and it could be sticking open after a few uses but then you would expect that it was doing that before overhaul, too if that was the problem.

I had no problems before overhaul (and none during previous 5 years and 3 or 4 previous overhauls)
And yes, they adjusted it without checking in the water bath but it was hooked to a gauge. But it did work OK during 3 dives (more then 2 hours at 0-120ft) before problem developed again. Can something be lose inside so correct adjustment suddenly unadjust?

 

[Cave Bum]

I had no problems before overhaul (and none during previous 5 years and 3 or 4 previous overhauls)
And yes, they adjusted it without checking in the water bath but it was hooked to a gauge. But it did work OK during 3 dives (more then 2 hours at 0-120ft) before problem developed again. Can something be lose inside so correct adjustment suddenly unadjust?

Not really. There is a screw in there that is fairly stiff, hard to turn, and it pushes against the poppit valve seat, which swings the lever in or out, depending on which way you turn it. If they had it hooked to a guage then chances are they adjusted it to the correct setting. They may have to replace the screw, but I've never heard of them getting loose before.

Still in all, their workmanship should be under warranty from the overhaul. I'd take it back to them and ask them to work on until it's fixed. It worked fine before overhaul and it doesn't now. Seems pretty cut-n-dry.

 

[svs]

I guess I’ll do this. And I am pretty sure that I’ll get it back in working conditions. But I’ll be worried that it may start free flowing again in situation where replacement is not easily available.

 

[fnfalman]

Also, don't forget that you have the adjustment knob on your second stage to help regulate the flow as well. Turn it more toward negative (-) to help mitigate some of the freeflowing.

 

[TSandM]

I'd be worried about IP creep. I had this same situation, with a mildly free-flowing second stage, and I adjusted it. It worked well for about a dozen dives, and then BOTH second stages began to leak the same way, and I checked the IP and it was too high.

 

[herman]

Just after service, I would take a look at the IP, good chance your HP seat is leaking a little, they scratched the balance chamber or put the Orings in wrong. You (and every diver IMO) should have an IP gauge and know how to use it. You can pick one up on ebay for $20 or make one from hardware store parts and an old LP hose for less than $10. It will tell you fast if problem lies in the first stage or the second- my bet is on the first stage.

Below is a photo of one I use on the bench. You can skip the pressure relief as long as you always keep at least one second stage on the reg to act as a relief valve.

 

[cemi]

It is hard to see what's wrong without check the regulator (and know it's from the first or the second stage). I suppose the person who had done the annual repair is able to check if everything is ok.
It is rare but it is possible (according to Aqualung) to have an incompatibility between the seat and the flip (? sorry I don't know yet the name in english) in the first stage.
Also possible to have calcareous (after cleaning with fresh water) and so hurt the seat. It is very very small but can be enough to hurt (but not immediately) the seat and so have a leak after several dives using the regulator (and this can't be seen in the shop because everything seems to be ok when the regulator is check).

 

[Cave Bum]

I'd be worried about IP creep. I had this same situation, with a mildly free-flowing second stage, and I adjusted it. It worked well for about a dozen dives, and then BOTH second stages began to leak the same way, and I checked the IP and it was too high.

With IP creep you'd think it would do it more before it was breathed off of and also you should see it in the octo. Not to say it can't be that, just that on the surface {no pun intended} that seems unlikely.