Price check on faber steel 120s

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Ok, they're in the garage. I put them on the scale, about 58lbs, supposedly full with nitrox. I've got yoke on my regulator so I can't tell exactly what psi they're at.

The tank markings as best I can make out (glossy white paint sucks)
SCC/120 FABER MADE IN ITALY M8303 02/05281 08
TC-3AA M-244 DOT-3AA 3180 REE 80

So besides Faber I'm guessing, scc/120 refers to capacity (scc= steel cylinder?) and the 3AA 3180 is DOT for steel and the pressure rating is 3180, I think. The rest of it is gibberish to me.

The Hydro stamp looks like 9/11 +, so hydro was due 3 year ago and it's + rated.

Please check my math here. I'm a newbie.
Looking at the scale, I don't think I have enough flotation to actually safely use use them for most of my diving. I'm in just a rash guard a lot. All florida diving. Yesterday I was in a 3mm shorty and had a luxfer s80 + 12lbs of lead. We were in the water a little over an hour, I finished at about 1500lbs and was feeling a little floaty at the end so I could have used another pound or 2.

So I've got a starting dry weight of 54 lbs and starting wet weight of -15.6 and an ending weight of -9.4.

Going steel tank alone (assuming everything else is neutral) I'll have a starting dry of 58, starting wet of -16.22 and ending wet of -7.2. If I'm a bit floaty towards the end of the 80, I will be really floaty with just the steel, so I need to add 4 pounds of lead.

So I'll be at 64 dry, -20 starting -11 ending. I'm using a DR venture wing so 25lbs of lift. With me in a wetsuit I can float it, but that's a lot on the land/boat.

If I remove 6lbs of flotation (rash guard, no wetsuit) am I wrong thinking I'm strapping an anchor to my back? I feel like I'm missing something.

My daughter takes more weight than I do, flotation wise without actually doing the math, it works. But, she's 12. There's no way she's strong enough safely to walk them.

Part of me wants to make these work, but after picking them up, part of me (specifically my back :) ) says resell them and buy some 72's. I want the steel characteristics but not the dry land weight. Thus the dilemma.

Help? :)
 
Nathan

Others can pick apart your math but you're pretty much there.

Short version is that you'll need 10# less lead with this than an AL80. If you're carrying more than 10# lead, great, that means you can carry less lead. If you are carrying less than 10#, that's a problem, you're going to be underweighted with no lead at all.

That's just the nature of those cylinders and unless you plan on diving in 7mm somewhere my advice would be to sell them. I'm really not in the market for any more cylinders right now but those would be nice for someone around here who dives 7mm or dry and wants to take some weight off their belt.
 
Ok, they're in the garage. I put them on the scale, about 58lbs, supposedly full with nitrox. I've got yoke on my regulator so I can't tell exactly what psi they're at.

The tank markings as best I can make out (glossy white paint sucks)
SCC/120 FABER MADE IN ITALY M8303 02/05281 08
TC-3AA M-244 DOT-3AA 3180 REE 80

So besides Faber I'm guessing, scc/120 refers to capacity (scc= steel cylinder?) and the 3AA 3180 is DOT for steel and the pressure rating is 3180, I think. The rest of it is gibberish to me.

The Hydro stamp looks like 9/11 +, so hydro was due 3 year ago and it's + rated.

Please check my math here. I'm a newbie.
Looking at the scale, I don't think I have enough flotation to actually safely use use them for most of my diving. I'm in just a rash guard a lot. All florida diving. Yesterday I was in a 3mm shorty and had a luxfer s80 + 12lbs of lead. We were in the water a little over an hour, I finished at about 1500lbs and was feeling a little floaty at the end so I could have used another pound or 2.

So I've got a starting dry weight of 54 lbs and starting wet weight of -15.6 and an ending weight of -9.4.

Going steel tank alone (assuming everything else is neutral) I'll have a starting dry of 58, starting wet of -16.22 and ending wet of -7.2. If I'm a bit floaty towards the end of the 80, I will be really floaty with just the steel, so I need to add 4 pounds of lead.

So I'll be at 64 dry, -20 starting -11 ending. I'm using a DR venture wing so 25lbs of lift. With me in a wetsuit I can float it, but that's a lot on the land/boat.

If I remove 6lbs of flotation (rash guard, no wetsuit) am I wrong thinking I'm strapping an anchor to my back? I feel like I'm missing something.

My daughter takes more weight than I do, flotation wise without actually doing the math, it works. But, she's 12. There's no way she's strong enough safely to walk them.

Part of me wants to make these work, but after picking them up, part of me (specifically my back :) ) says resell them and buy some 72's. I want the steel characteristics but not the dry land weight. Thus the dilemma.

Help? :)

I'm kinda doubting your 12 yr old daughter will love a 58 lbs tank, just sayin'.
 
Ive got them on craigslist now, 225 each. Hopefully they sell. Lds said if they don't sell by may to bring them in and he'll do 150ish but he's not buying used until then.

Im hoping there's sell quick, i want to buy some of the 72s he has. 2018 hydros on them.

I did some math. The dives ive been on so far ive been last on the boat, getting out with 1400lbs, so im leaving half my gas every tank. Ignoring safety. I could do a 2 dive trip on a single 80.

Going with the lighter 72 gives me a better weight profile and i'll have the same rec dive.

Then again, i see an ad for a pair of lp80s with current hydro for 150 each... :laugh:
 
Tanks have a new home in New Jersey.

And today I bought these! Not pretty, but 2018 Hyrdo and VIP, $40 each. I'm putting 2 of them up for sale I think. I should end up with free tanks and a little profit. Life is good.
20190204_190056.jpg


Dive shop says he doesn't care if I paint them as long as its rattle can and not baked on. They'll going to be OBNOXIOUS looking when I'm done :)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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