Parts kits for Aqualung 1st and 2nd stages

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It is rare that a part needs to be replaced on a regulator. I still dive my U.S.Diver Calypso IV, first and second stages. I have had them since 1976. The only thing I had to do was replace the piston o-ring because it was beginning to flatten and creep. I did not turn the seat over yet and it has about 260 dives on it. I did not buy a kit for the piston. All I did was mic the groove and o-ring diameter and order a 90 duro viton ring. The second stage has never had any issues or worn parts to the extent that I felt compelled to replace 'em. But I replaced the o-rings with Viton. The second still has the original diaphragm. I tear all my stuff down, clean, lube, re-assemble and adjust after 50 dives or so, or if I think I haven't been getting the performance. I want to suggest using an oxygen compatible lubricant since you never know when you might dive 40%.
 
The reason I was going to order that kit was that it included the HP seat whereas the Titan & Conshelf kit does not, and it's an exta $25. What tools do I need to do this correctly? I've noticed some special tools mentioned in the manuals but I'm not sure if they are really needed or if I could make do with something else.

Does the 2nd stage and octo also need to be serviced? I was told that this is probably not necessary as the titans have a good seal.

According to the 2006 parts catalog, the HP seat is included in 90001. Email them at VDH and ask but I am sure it does.

Reading the Dacor manual, I would use the disassembly/assembly order called out in the Titan manual instead. That eliminates the need for the Dacor B-21 tool during disassembly. The 1094-36 AL tool can easily be substituted with a couple of small plastic or wood dowels in both disassembly and reassembly.
The Dacor B-5 lever is easily substituted with a 3/8x24 bolt, an old spent CO2 cartridge or there are similar tools available. I now use a vise tool for the job but in the early days I used a 3/8x24 bolt and nuts.
The one place where a special tool is going to be handy is step 10 in the Dacor assembly procedure (14 in the Titan manual). Dacor suggest using your fingers to compress the HP assembly. While it can be done, it's a huge pain to do. The Titan/Conshelf have a second spring in that assembly and are very difficult to do. The AL 1110-00 tool is a big help when installing the HP components in either reg, it's the one special tool you should consider other than an IP gauge if you are going to service the D-12 (or MR-12/Titan/Conshelf). There are a couple of places you can get the 1110-00 or similar tool.


 
nldiver1984
You're getting a little confused about what comes with what kit.

All official AquaLung / US Divers kits have everything needed to do a complete rebuild.....there are many part included in the kit that only need replacing very infrequently.
It's the Mares / Dacor kit that doesn't have the HP seat and diaphragm.


............from 25 years of experience with your reg my best guess is that when you get around to testing it it will be working perfectly. Read the checklist at the top of the section and go out and dive it.


If I was looking at keeping the reg for some time I'd swap out the Mares HP seat for an AquaLung one and change the balance chamber o ring, and thats all.

You have to have an IP gauge to do any serious work on regulators.
 
I am a little confused. This sounds like complicated work, especially when it comes to sourcing the special tools involved. That IP gauge you send me the link for doesn't include the $30 shipping cost to Canada, so I'm trying to find one cheaper.
 
The special tools are nice to have but totally unnecessary.

Tools needed for your Dacor 12
12" adjustable spanner.
Old CO2 cartridge or threaded rod to fit in port when using the spanner.
Small internal circlip pliers.
10mm allen key.
Pick or pin/needle.


Additional tools needed for your 2nd stages.
Medium flathead screwdriver.
 
I hate to give up on a guy...... But, I just don't think "DIY" is for him.... nldiver1984 seems like a "BRING IT TO THE SHOP" guy.... He is way over thinking this whole thing about servicing and overhauling of 1st and 2nd stages... I really feel it would be in his best interest to buy a brand new regulator set with parts for life and yearly service.... It's what I think he "REALLY" wants.... :wink:

Jim...

---------- Post added May 24th, 2013 at 04:17 PM ----------

The special tools Pick or pin/needle.

In Plastic-Teflon or Brass as to not hurt the soft brass regulator body or parts...:wink:

Jim...
 
Yea, I'm a dumb newb. Really though, I am. I often thinking about diving 30 feet only to find out that my reg doesn't work anymore :S. Highly unlikely, but you can't blame me for not thinking about it. This is all new to me.

---------- Post added May 24th, 2013 at 06:54 PM ----------

The special tools are nice to have but totally unnecessary.

Tools needed for your Dacor 12
12" adjustable spanner.
Old CO2 cartridge or threaded rod to fit in port when using the spanner.
Small internal circlip pliers.
10mm allen key.
Pick or pin/needle.


Additional tools needed for your 2nd stages.
Medium flathead screwdriver.

Ok, I can work with that. Off to the hardware store....
 
I am a little confused. This sounds like complicated work, especially when it comes to sourcing the special tools involved. That IP gauge you send me the link for doesn't include the $30 shipping cost to Canada, so I'm trying to find one cheaper.

I thought every Canadian has a UPS box on the US side near the border to ship their all online bought goodies to :)
 
I made my own IP gauge from 300psi pressure gauge with 1/4'male threads and an adapter with 1/4" female threads on one end a male inflator hose connector on the other that I got at my LDS, have maybe $20 in it. It works fine. I took it into the shop and hooked it up to their test bench to see how accurate it is and it was within 2 or 3 psi which is fine for most work. Within specs IP is about staying consistent and not creeping up or down.
 
Most people make their own IP gauges using an old BC or second stage LP hose, cut the female end off, a brass fitting and a small hose clamp from ACE Hardware and a cheap pressure gauge from Home Depot in the tool section by the air tools.

Not everyone is a mechanic or even gifted with tool knowledge and mechanical talent. Like any talent, be it music or art, not everybody is talented with mechanical things. That is okay, nothing wrong with that. But there is nothing difficult or unusual about servicing an AL regulator, it is about on the same level as making fire.

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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