PADI Surf entrance specialty

[riguerin]

Hey Rick, I was down at Tamarack in Carlsbad (a few miles North of Swami's) for lunch today about noon - during high tide. PCH was jammed with cars and people watching the surf - easily double overhead sets.

John, I heard it was a total scene down there ... like something right out of Big Wednesday Trestles is pretty remote. So no big crowds ... except in water, as usual ... just me and 60 of my closest friends

Those guys that snapped boards today are bummed. With the announcement a couple weeks ago that the Clark Foam factory was closing, the price of new boards has shot up a couple hundred bucks. I might have to sell an old board to fund some new steel tanks

 

[PhotoTJ]

I dove Ventura Wednesday morning, viz wasn't great, but we had fun. The waves wern't all that bad.

 

[wetrat]

Those guys that snapped boards today are bummed. With the announcement a couple weeks ago that the Clark Foam factory was closing, the price of new boards has shot up a couple hundred bucks. I might have to sell an old board to fund some new steel tanks

Supply and demand my friend! Take advantage of it!

 

[riguerin]

The surf backed down quite a bit this morning. We were still pulling in some solid overhead surf here in So OC. Laguna Beaches remained closed for diving.

The next two projected storms have formed in the North Pacific. Next Wednesday's storm is looking very impressive on some of the models. If correct, the system will yield significantly more energy than yesterday's . Hang on to your MOF ;-)

First pic shows the LOLA 12/23 forecast depicting the 3 storms (12/21, 12/25, 12/28)that are currently in the NPAC.

Second pic shows the LOLA 12/27 forecast depicting the impending arrival of a massive system for 12/28 -12/29.

 

[limeyx]

I was diving around Two Harbors Monday and Tuesday. Later in the day Tuesday it started getting pretty sloppy. Good size ground swell on the ride home. Glad I'm not making the crossing now......

Hope everybody stays safe 'till is calms down.

Tobin

There was surge at 70 feet at redondo on monday ... felt sorry for the guys going in after us (tried to warn them but ...)

 

[tiburon72157]

great link fishfood. excellent thread all. monster surf eh? too bad the knees aren't up to working a board anymore. ahhhh...the good ole days. looks like shore diving is out for awhile now...knew the storms would start lining up at some point. good opportunity to rest and get the back squared away. gym will be mobbed soon with all the fatties workin' their resolutions. my resolution involves some fish with big smiles in guadalupe.

 

[riguerin]

There was surge at 70 feet at redondo on monday ... felt sorry for the guys going in after us (tried to warn them but ...)

The surf that we've been seeing recently in So Cal is due to ground swell. This is typically defined as wave trains with a period of 14 sec or greater. The wave period is often an overlooked dimension in wave forecasts. It is an indication of the amount of energy that has been transferred into the ocean from the strongest part of the storm system. This energy travels deep below the surface and is therefore less susceptible to wave decaying elements. It has traveled thousands of miles through open ocean to reach our shores ... it can pack a punch when it arrives.

A commonly used first order empirical formula for estimating when this ground swell energy begins to interact with the ocean bottom is take the wave period, square it, and then multiply by 2.56. For example, on Monday 12/19, the dominant swell was attributed to a W swell (284 deg) with 14 sec period. Using the aforementioned formula: ((14^2) * 2.56 = 196 * 2.56 = 502 Ft. Shorelines with a W view would have had the most exposure. It is important to note that this formula does not factor into other 2nd/3rd order effects such as the shoreline exposure, bathymetry, nor offshore shadowing effects.

In general, for your regular shore dive spot, expect to fell more surge at depth with an increase in wave period and swell height, relative to effective swell angle exposure.

 

[riguerin]

Cool article!

There was a time when I thought that kind of surf was fun. Now I think it's nuts to go out in stuff like that. It takes longer to heal now.

Thanks for sharing the link.

Christian

It is admirable that you understand and respect your limits. Many people don't. Your very survival on these days takes good physical conditioning, strong waterman skills; and most importantly, a keen abilty to read the ocean.

 

[headhunter]

It is admirable that you understand and respect your limits. Many people don't. Your very survival on these days takes good physical conditioning, strong waterman skills; and most importantly, a keen abilty to read the ocean.

I've got friends that don't remember the kind of shape we were in when we used to do this and think that they can just go out and pick up where we left off. Luckily, they've only tried it in much gentler conditions and learned that it's not the same.

When these monsters come in, you can't just duck under them. :11doh:

Christian

 

[ShakaZulu]

I went out yesterday on my waveski and was caught in a wave I could not get out of. Ended up on the rocks, thank god I made it back in........

Now, there was one time we dived in conditions like these.