OM-D E-M1 MkII video settings & techniques

[Kent Dukes]

I haven't seen this topic discussed so I thought I'd throw out the grenade!

At the moment, here is what I'm thinking for UW (non-macro) video:

• Movie mode
• MANUAL (set as per stills to get the blue water and DOF) with f/11 and 1/125
• ISO 200
• 2x iTorch Venom c92 lights (4,000 lumens)
• Manual focus set @ 2 feet (hyper focal distance) (I worry about focus hunting?) lens dependent
• Image stab - M-IS1 (both sensor shift & electronic correction)
• WB - Underwater (I like how the MkI rendered the colors in JPG stills)
• Picture mode - Underwater (I like how the MkI rendered the colors in JPG stills)

For macro (differences)

• APERTURE mode for DOF (f/11 - f/16)
• ISO 200 (lights are adjustable x10 steps) trying to get about the same shutter speed (2x the fps - 24/30/60= 1/60 or 1/125)
• C-AF TR via back button (Fn1)
• WB - AUTO
• Picture mode - Vivid

Okay then, all of above is a WAG (wild-ass guess)!

Looking for all thoughts and ideas.

I've very thick skin

Cheers

Kent

 

[Reefwalker]

Hi Kent
In my experience most of your settings are ok, but I would consider these changes:
UW (non-macro) video:

• Movie mode
• MANUAL (set as per stills to get the blue water and DOF) with f/11 and 1/125 - PROGRAM - the camera does a great job of metering, without the need to shoot manually, I use the +/- exposure compensation to reduce highlights where required. I mostly shoot the 8mm or 9-18mm lenses for wide angle.
  
• ISO 200 - AUTO ISO - once again the camera does a great job of selecting ISO all on its own. Never had noise issues unless super-super low light, then some noise in the shadows.
  
• 2x iTorch Venom c92 lights (4,000 lumens)
• Manual focus set @ 2 feet (hyper focal distance) (I worry about focus hunting?) lens dependent - I use the centre area focusing (9 points around centre of screen)
  
• Image stab - M-IS1 (both sensor shift & electronic correction)
• WB - Underwater (I like how the MkI rendered the colors in JPG stills) - Set WB Manually with a grey slate is far more accurate colour
  
• Picture mode - Underwater (I like how the MkI rendered the colors in JPG stills) - Set the Pictureo Mode in Movie Menu 'I' to ON, this will assist in post editing as the camera will then shoot FLAT video footage, more suited to editing.

MACRO (differences)

• APERTURE mode for DOF (f/11 - f/16) - F9 will give adequate depth of field in Aperture Priority.
  
• ISO 200 (lights are adjustable x10 steps) trying to get about the same shutter speed (2x the fps - 24/30/60= 1/60 or 1/125) - Just shoot in ISO AUTO, when shooting macro it works super well.
  
• C-AF TR via back button (Fn1) - I use spot Focus and move the spot to the main point of interest (eye of the animal, rhinophore of the Nudibranch etc.) and CF (Continuous Focus), I do get some focus hunt every now and then, but far more accurate focus than with Tracking AF (which tends to follow the subject but not keep up with the focusing) I also shoot macro on a Tripod system to keep the camera steady and the focus distance fixed.
  
• WB - AUTO - Set WB Manually with a grey slate is far more accurate colour
  
• Picture mode - Flat and Pictureo Mode in Movie Menu 'I' to ON (see 'Picture Mode' above at Non-Macro)

Just my two cents worth from experimenting and shooting a lot - but not necessarily gospel !
A few videos on our website: http://www.reefwreckandcritter.com/raja-ampat-videos.html
and on our Blog: Reef Wreck and Critter - Blog
http://www.reefwreckandcritter.com/blog

 

[Kent Dukes]

Reefwalker,

Perfect!

Thank you for the information. That's what I was hoping to find, techniques from folks that have actually used the camera for video. I'll be sure to check out your links!

Will try these in a couple of months in Roatan.

Cheers

Kent

 

[vitaly]

Hi Reefwalker,

Nice videos. Which tripod do you use for macro?

Thank you,
Vitaly

 

[Reefwalker]

Hi Vitaly
Sorry for the late reply, I didn't see your question until today!
I use a home made tripod, I use three Locline (3/4") legs on the bottom of an alloy housing tray, one at each end and one in the centre, I spread the two arms on the ends backwards and the centre one forward (as they are flexible) and rest these on the sand where possible. If there is limited room available I rest just one leg and to steady the camera. I always use the images stabilisation set to sensor shift & electronic correction, which works very well if there is small camera movement.

 

[vitaly]

Thanks a lot.