OLD/USED Tanks too old or still good????

[LakeCountyDiver]

This is a very important point. Thank you for bringing it up. Especially since this new diver is probably using yoke.

This new diver is using DIN and Yoke. I have 2 reg sets. It is a good point but I do understand the differences in the valves and tank pressures. Every HP100 I have seen that is 3442 all seem to have the Pro K-valve which is yoke/DIN convertible Only 3500 have the fixed DIN. I was mainly just asking about tank metals and how they age and is it worth the buy.

I scored huge on a pair of Steel HP100's 3442 W/Pro valves from 07' and my dive shop did the last VIP in July of 10' for $80 a piece. WOOO HOOOO talk about a deal and a half. It is a sad day when a fellow diver gets too old to dive but man can you score big.

 

[Luis H]

I was mainly just asking about tank metals and how they age and is it worth the buy.

Age is irrelevant to a steel tank. The material does not age.

The only factor that would come into play with age is that an older tank would have had more chances for exposure to harm (fire, internal moisture, salt water inside, or similar condition). But, if passes a good visual and hydro test (in the last 5 years), the tank is fine.

 

[05sportsman]

Statistically speaking a steel tank will fail a visual before it fails a hydro test. I have tested 1000's of steel tanks dating back to 1945 (1800psi CO2 tank) The only problem with the old steels is the fact they liked to use the coating on the inside of the tank. It is impossible to tumble out (within reason) and if it gets a pinhole in it, it will corrode and cause a bubble behind the coating. Take an inspection light or a borescope and look on the inside of the tank.

 

[AfterDark]

All the tanks I own I bought used except for the one I found in a gravel pit without a valve. That was 1984 it's still good. If they are vip'd and hydro'd especially a new hydro you'll get 5 years anyway. I bought a steel LP 72 manufactured in 1974 this past summer that was in a garage empty with the valve open. It had never been re-hydro'd and the ID was covered with rust. Cost $10.00 another $50.00 got it cleaned vip'd and hydro'd. What a deal The only tank I bought new in 1968 just failed hydro after probably >1000+ dives, it failed to contract after hydro. That one cost me $50.00 back then.

 

[Jimmer]

I have a lot of tanks, at one point I was well over 20 tanks, and I have purchased exactly 2 brand new tanks, and they were both aluminum 40's, and the only reason I bought them new, is that used 40's around here are like gold.

The tanks I dive the most often are double 72's from 1963 and 1966, setup with modern isolation manifold and bands. My other tank that I see myself using a lot after I get it hydro'd is my late 70's PST lp104.

Don't sweat buying old tanks, they can be a great deal.

 

[LakeCountyDiver]

Ya even thou I still look all the time for used tanks I still only find the tanks that people forget are used. Alot of folks around here seem to want to price there tanks $20 below new/retail even with them being out of VIP/Hydro. Now you do get a few AL's that I have found that people are selling cheap but are out of VIZ/hydro for like 10 years.

I really never want to pass up a deal but I am mainly into steel tanks. It is good to know that most all "OLD" tanks still have good life left.

 

[AbyssalPlains]

Winter is good.
Bought two tanks two months ago, six years old, five years out of hydro, we have yearly hydro's, $120 and $150 ebay, sight unseen, hydro's $72, gas $20, gas for car $10 like new.


Retail $800 - 1000.


And the size of our second hand market is like a pigeon roosting on a pyramid.

Yearly hydros???? Gasp!!! :shocked2:

All that stretching and pressure-testing must make a poor tank age much faster, but what do I know.