Off season on North Ambergris Caye

[boulderjohn]

I have just returned from my first trip to Belize, on the north end of Ambergris Caye, and I thought I would give a bit of a report because some of what I have to say might be helpful to others about to have a similar experience. (I know I would have done some things differently if I had known then what I know now.)

This was not planned as a classic dive trip. I went with a group of old friends who found the resort, and I was the only diver in the group. Thus, this was a trip that would include a little diving more than a real dive trip. I was thus starting with some self-imposed limitations. I asked about the local operator in this forum before I left, and I was given a good report. I figured I was OK given my situation.

Here is what I did not know:

• The only real way to get from the north end of the caye to San Pedro is via a pretty expensive water taxi ride--$20 a round trip.
• The northern dive operators do not get a lot divers during the off season; if there are not enough divers, they don't go out, and you can't dive with them.
• Even on the best day, you are looking at morning two tank dives only from these operators. If you want something else, you need to go into town.
• The big trips (Blue Hole, Turneffe) are only done by the bigger operators in town, and you have to plan ahead. They will pick you up for those trips only--otherwise take the water taxi and add $20 to the cost of your dive.
• When the northern operators do get enough people for a trip, you can be sure that some of them will be true beginners. The dives are all group, DM-led dives, so the dives will not exceed the limits of these divers.
• Nitrox is not used much on the north end, and it would not do you any good to have it, since you would have to come up with the rest of the group anyway.

On the first day, there was no diving, and it was too late to make other arrangements, so I lost a day right off the bat. After that, my operator set me up with alternatives when they were not running, and they had dives on only a couple of days while I waas there. On one occasion, I did a local dive with another northern operator. On another occasion, I went on the Blue Hole trip with a San Pedro operator. (Yes, the B.H. is overrated, but it was still a good trip.) On another day, I just said the heck with it and didn't dive.

The diving itself was excellent. The reef exceeded my expectations.

Because this was not truly a dive trip, I was OK with it all--I had a great time with my wife and friends. If I were really there to dive first and foremost, though, I would have had to do things differently.

SUMMARY: If you are staying on the north end during the off season and want to maximize your diving, be prepared to go wth a San Pedro operator, and be prepared to pay the cost of transportation.

 

[kg555]

Thanks a lot for the info.

I'm going to ambergris on Sunday and will stay 2 miles north of san pedro.

Do you recommend booking the trips from US? or should I wait till I get to the island and call from my hotel to san pedro?

How was the weather out there? Have you done any mainland trips? Has any of the trips been cancelled due to weather diving or mainland?

Thanks again. very useful info.

 

[boulderjohn]

Thanks a lot for the info.

I'm going to ambergris on Sunday and will stay 2 miles north of san pedro.

Do you recommend booking the trips from US? or should I wait till I get to the island and call from my hotel to san pedro?

How was the weather out there? Have you done any mainland trips? Has any of the trips been cancelled due to weather diving or mainland?

If you are going with one of the major operators in town, you can probably wait. If you are going with a local operator, you should call to check if you want to dive the very first day. Some ops have toll free numbers from the U.S. I was 6 miles north; if you are only 2 miles north, your ferry ride will probably cost less than mine.

It was very cloudy with occasional showers for most of the time I was there. The last two days were nice and sunny. We had a couple of really bad storms at night.

As a result of the rains, the rivers on the mainland were overflowing. On the last day, I took a Mayan ruin trip up the New River, which was six feet above normal. Some people at our resort had a cave tubing trip canceled because of increased water flow.

 

[kg555]

thank you for your response. very helpful.

 

[Hank49]

If you are going with one of the major operators in town, you can probably wait. If you are going with a local operator, you should call to check if you want to dive the very first day. Some ops have toll free numbers from the U.S. I was 6 miles north; if you are only 2 miles north, your ferry ride will probably cost less than mine.

It was very cloudy with occasional showers for most of the time I was there. The last two days were nice and sunny. We had a couple of really bad storms at night.

As a result of the rains, the rivers on the mainland were overflowing. On the last day, I took a Mayan ruin trip up the New River, which was six feet above normal. Some people at our resort had a cave tubing trip canceled because of increased water flow.

Most of the San Pedro operators will pick you up at your dock. Did you contact anyone to see if they would?

 

[boulderjohn]

Most of the San Pedro operators will pick you up at your dock. Did you contact anyone to see if they would?

I took my operator's word for it that they would not. He said they would only do it for the big trips, and they did so for the Blue Hole trip.

Was he telling me a fib?

 

[Hank49]

I took my operator's word for it that they would not. He said they would only do it for the big trips, and they did so for the Blue Hole trip.

Was he telling me a fib?

Since gas is now BZ$10.80 (US$5.40) per gallon, they may be a little more choosey about how far they go to pick up divers. But I would check next time by calling the other operators. If they're coming your way to dive anyway, I'm sure it's no problem. Or if you have three or more divers. I'm sure there is no set policy and most would take it case by case if they think they can make a little money on it. Negotiate. You're in Central America.

 

[boulderjohn]

Since gas is now BZ$10.80 (US$5.40) per gallon, they may be a little more choosey about how far they go to pick up divers. But I would check next time by calling the other operators. If they're coming your way to dive anyway, I'm sure it's no problem. Or if you have three or more divers. I'm sure there is no set policy and most would take it case by case if they think they can make a little money on it. Negotiate. You're in Central America.

Good tip--I should probably have my wife handle something like that, because she is a much better negotiator than I. In fact, I am downright bad at it.

I was 6 miles out of San Pedro, so it would probably have been on the far side of likelihood.

 

[Hank49]

there are lots of dive sites up that way. You were near Journey's End or somewhere in that vincinity? Mexico Rocks is right there among many other sites. See, if you call the other shops, they'll pick the dive site based on proximity of the divers going.

 

[boulderjohn]

there are lots of dive sites up that way. You were near Journey's End or somewhere in that vincinity? Mexico Rocks is right there among many other sites. See, if you call the other shops, they'll pick the dive site based on proximity of the divers going.

I was at Costa Maya, well north of Journey's End but right next to Mexico Rocks--my friends took a Kayak there and snorkeled on several occasions. All my dives (other than the Blue Hole) were done near that channel through the reef. The sites themselves were just fine; I thought the coral was very nice indeed.