Trip Report Quick Trip Report to Belize:

[profmason]

A short report is better then no report. I decided to get to Tulum / Cozumel via Belize on the last trip out (September 2023)

Day 1: I flew into Belize City direct from LAX and spent the night so I could get the first ferry out.
Day 2. Took the 8AM Ferry across to Caye Caulker. Walked 5 minutes up the beach to Frenchies with the dive bag, did paperwork and got on the boat. Did two dives on the local reefs. Diving there was mediocre at best with reef condition fishiness low. (The fishing boats are coming in all the time.) The town has a no paved roads and a laid back vibe. Not many options on lodging or restaurants on Caye Caulker. I stayed at the Tropical Paradise as it was cheap off season and most things were closed.
Day 3: I dove with Frenchies in caye caulker and enjoyed to DMs and they seemed to have the nicest boats on the caye. The trips to the outlying sites (turneffe, blue hole) are 30 minutes closer to Caye Caulker but the boats don't run as often since the demand is smaller. Frenchies runs a budget blue hole trip with camping on Half Moon Caye. I went out to Turneffe north for the day and the reef was in much better shape then the cozumel reef, but the bleaching was looking pretty bad. After diving, I took the ferry from Caye Caulker across to Ambergis key (San Pedro)
Day 4: I found the local diving there much better. I dove with Amigos which was also a fine operation with nice boats. really enjoyed the surface intervals at the shark alley area and the reef diving rivaled Cozumel for fishiness and was much sharkier (bulls, black tips and nurse sharks) Stayed a great Airbnb and enjoyed the restaurants. San Pedro has more of a town (I could get a haircut) and more variety in restaurants.
Day 5: More diving around San Pedro (Tackle box etc) Cool reef topography. Had Lunch and the ferry wasn't running so I took a $70 30 minute prop plate flight that stayed below 2500 ft (so no diving restrictions) that took me to corozol where a taxi took me to the mexican border (Bacalar) where I got the ADO bus to PDC for the usual caves and reefs. (Amazing tamales at the bus station)

Other of note.
1. I stopped in Bacalar to dive Cenote Azul there, but the op didn't show and as I went to the cenote anyway, it didn't seem like much of a dive site, just a deep open cenote that was about 90m deep. I was underwhelmed by Bacalar, but much of the town was closed for low season.
2. I had a long talk with a couple of Cave divers about Cave diving in the Cayes. Very little exploration is done and the caves are deeper, so would need stage cave. I know some of the local divers are working to support diving the Belize Caves and this makes me interested to return. Supposedly the biggest marine cave in the world?

 

[chillyinCanada]

I've been diving with Anigos for a couple of decades. That said, I haven't been back recently and it's my understanding that the grown kids of original owner are running the show though probably with dad's oversight.

What airbnb did you stay in?

 

[profmason]

Amigos is looking a bit rough around the edges and their sign blew over during the last hurricane and hasn't been repaired. Yes, his kids are running the shop and there were a good mix of long time locals doing the first dive and out of town folks doing two. Nice folks and very accommodating. I would dive with them again.

I stayed at Luz and Dales place which is just up the road from Cool Beans coffee (great place for breakfast) and behind the high school. Luz is local and Dale is from Vancouver. Super nice folks and their place was just what I wanted. Dale runs the best headshop on the island.

 

[chillyinCanada]

Amigos is looking a bit rough around the edges and their sign blew over during the last hurricane and hasn't been repaired. Yes, his kids are running the shop and there were a good mix of long time locals doing the first dive and out of town folks doing two. Nice folks and very accommodating. I would dive with them again.

I stayed at Luz and Dales place which is just up the road from Cool Beans coffee (great place for breakfast) and behind the high school. Luz is local and Dale is from Vancouver. Super nice folks and their place was just what I wanted. Dale runs the best headshop on the island.

Who was your guide? Do you remember?

 

[profmason]

Sadly all that is in my notes is Amigos. I know that on Caye Caulker I dove with IIya Rosado who is part of the Belize Cave Diving Society that is working to preserve the caves. IIya was working with the local council to reduce impacts of heavy equipment on the cave system which is directly under the town. ( Train Maya?!? redux). Both Frenchies and Amigos had plenty of AL80 DIN tanks, but plan on rigging a bunch of left handed tanks for sidemount. Also no Nitrox or mixes other then 21 on Caye Caulker but it is available on San Pedro.

 

[34109411]

A short report is better then no report. I decided to get to Tulum / Cozumel via Belize on the last trip out (September 2023)

Day 1: I flew into Belize City direct from LAX and spent the night so I could get the first ferry out.
Day 2. Took the 8AM Ferry across to Caye Caulker. Walked 5 minutes up the beach to Frenchies with the dive bag, did paperwork and got on the boat. Did two dives on the local reefs. Diving there was mediocre at best with reef condition fishiness low. (The fishing boats are coming in all the time.) The town has a no paved roads and a laid back vibe. Not many options on lodging or restaurants on Caye Caulker. I stayed at the Tropical Paradise as it was cheap off season and most things were closed.
Day 3: I dove with Frenchies in caye caulker and enjoyed to DMs and they seemed to have the nicest boats on the caye. The trips to the outlying sites (turneffe, blue hole) are 30 minutes closer to Caye Caulker but the boats don't run as often since the demand is smaller. Frenchies runs a budget blue hole trip with camping on Half Moon Caye. I went out to Turneffe north for the day and the reef was in much better shape then the cozumel reef, but the bleaching was looking pretty bad. After diving, I took the ferry from Caye Caulker across to Ambergis key (San Pedro)
Day 4: I found the local diving there much better. I dove with Amigos which was also a fine operation with nice boats. really enjoyed the surface intervals at the shark alley area and the reef diving rivaled Cozumel for fishiness and was much sharkier (bulls, black tips and nurse sharks) Stayed a great Airbnb and enjoyed the restaurants. San Pedro has more of a town (I could get a haircut) and more variety in restaurants.
Day 5: More diving around San Pedro (Tackle box etc) Cool reef topography. Had Lunch and the ferry wasn't running so I took a $70 30 minute prop plate flight that stayed below 2500 ft (so no diving restrictions) that took me to corozol where a taxi took me to the mexican border (Bacalar) where I got the ADO bus to PDC for the usual caves and reefs. (Amazing tamales at the bus station)

Other of note.
1. I stopped in Bacalar to dive Cenote Azul there, but the op didn't show and as I went to the cenote anyway, it didn't seem like much of a dive site, just a deep open cenote that was about 90m deep. I was underwhelmed by Bacalar, but much of the town was closed for low season.
2. I had a long talk with a couple of Cave divers about Cave diving in the Cayes. Very little exploration is done and the caves are deeper, so would need stage cave. I know some of the local divers are working to support diving the Belize Caves and this makes me interested to return. Supposedly the biggest marine cave in the world?

diving around the island is not was it use to be. I use to dive there between 2005 to 2008. As you said lots of fisherman. if you like a nice dive destination in belize head to placencia. in 2010 i went to utila. Wow reef and marine life was amazing compare to BZE. But i don't know about that now.

 

[Doc Harry]

We went to Belize City and Ambergris Cay with a group last year. I've been around the world twice, and visited 45 countries, so I've seen a lot. We found Belize to be a run-down and dirty country. Belize City was disgusting. We even stayed in a "four-star" hotel run by an respectable international chain, and the place was filthy. Garbage was strewn about. People were working on their cars in front circle of the hotel, and there were oil stains and car parts everywhere. Seems most of our fellow divers were newbies, and you had to stay with the group, so the dives were very short. Hiring a private guide seems the best way to go.

We won't be returning to Belize for any reason.

 

[34109411]

We went to Belize City and Ambergris Cay with a group last year. I've been around the world twice, and visited 45 countries, so I've seen a lot. We found Belize to be a run-down and dirty country. Belize City was disgusting. We even stayed in a "four-star" hotel run by an respectable international chain, and the place was filthy. Garbage was strewn about. People were working on their cars in front circle of the hotel, and there were oil stains and car parts everywhere. Seems most of our fellow divers were newbies, and you had to stay with the group, so the dives were very short. Hiring a private guide seems the best way to go.

We won't be returning to Belize for any reason.

With all my respect...

When travelling to central america you need to lower your standards, this is not magic kingdom. Especially if you ve been in 45 countries.

Read about where you are going before. Especially travel advisory. Belize is a poor country people are suffering and have no ressource don't judge them from your higher level of life coming from another country.

Belize is more a backback destination then a place to go in group ins search of 4 star accommodation... Ask advice to other and explain your expectations like this you will not be disappointed .

Belize city is one with the highest crime rate in the world ! You most likely didn't know in what you were getting into. If you where shock go, to San Pedro Sula in Honduras, BZE is a kindergarden compare to it .

You most likely stay at the Hilton in BZE. a 4 star in new york is not the same as a 4 star in a poor country struggling to survive.

Belize mainly collapse when the british left in 1982. Before that the country was in a better shape. But was left alone after that.

Mennonite people are deeply involve in the growing of belize ; building road, harvesting farms etc...Without them situation will be worst.

For the record i travel a lot all around the world. I did stay in mexico from 2005-2008 and during that time visit belize about 5 times. Went back after that twice.

If you are looking for the high end resort that will suit your need in belize let me know Cheers safe travelling to you and your family. Hopefully you go back with a different perspective.

 

[Doc Harry]

When travelling to central america you need to lower your standards, this is not magic kingdom.

I've traveled through multiple countries in Central and South America. I've been to Honduras, won't go back there, either.

I am easy going, prefer greasy spoon diners and local joints instead of 5-star hotels. I don't have high expectations.

I eat from alley food carts instead of restaurants.

I've been to many countries that were former colonies.

I did lower my expectations when visiting Belize.

Doesn't change a thing.

Belize City is disgusting. It's a run-down and dirty country, more so than even I expected.

Belize city is one with the highest crime rate in the world !

I rest my case about Belize.

FYI we ate at numerous small restaurants in Belize City, ones that were recommended by locals on the street. The food was good and we didn't get sick while in country.

 

[34109411]

I've traveled through multiple countries in Central and South America. I've been to Honduras, won't go back there, either.

I am easy going, prefer greasy spoon diners and local joints instead of 5-star hotels. I don't have high expectations.

I eat from alley food carts instead of restaurants.

I've been to many countries that were former colonies.

I did lower my expectations when visiting Belize.

Doesn't change a thing.

Belize City is disgusting. It's a run-down and dirty country, more so than even I expected.



I rest my case about Belize.

FYI we ate at numerous small restaurants in Belize City, ones that were recommended by locals on the street. The food was good and we didn't get sick while in

I've traveled through multiple countries in Central and South America. I've been to Honduras, won't go back there, either.

I am easy going, prefer greasy spoon diners and local joints instead of 5-star hotels. I don't have high expectations.

I eat from alley food carts instead of restaurants.

I've been to many countries that were former colonies.

I did lower my expectations when visiting Belize.

Doesn't change a thing.

Belize City is disgusting. It's a run-down and dirty country, more so than even I expected.



I rest my case about Belize.

FYI we ate at numerous small restaurants in Belize City, ones that were recommended by locals on the street. The food was good and we didn't get sick while in country.