Oceanic Pro Plus 2 Battery Leak

[ibj40]

Without quoting from the above two posts, here’s some answers.

The two screws that won’t tighten are the two bottom ones, the two top ones tighten nicely.

I’d rather not make a permanent, one time solution at this time.

In wet test #1, I submerged the computer to four feet for an hour and it worked fine (water temperature was 52 degrees F).

Waiting on the dive shop to let us know when we’ll have access to the Olympic pool.

Thanks for all the help and advice!

 

[ThatDogDontHunt]

Without quoting from the above two posts, here’s some answers.

The two screws that won’t tighten are the two bottom ones, the two top ones tighten nicely.

I’d rather not make a permanent, one time solution at this time.

In wet test #1, I submerged the computer to four feet for an hour and it worked fine (water temperature was 52 degrees F).

Waiting on the dive shop to let us know when we’ll have access to the Olympic pool.

Thanks for all the help and advice!

Is bottom the short or long side? Short side is a definite No. Long side is a highly unlikely.

Regardless 2 screws on the same side will not provide a reliable seal at depth and in motion.

So start to consider other options.

 

[ibj40]

Is bottom the short or long side? Short side is a definite No. Long side is a highly unlikely.

Regardless 2 screws on the same side will not provide a reliable seal at depth and in motion.

So start to consider other options.

Maybe this picture will help explain what I consider top/bottom orientation.

PP2 Back by Jim Forte, on Flickr

And when I describe them as "loose", it's not as if they are going to fall out, it's just that I can't get them to bottom out to a complete "tight" condition.

As I noted above, the computer survived the four foot above ground pool test.

We'll progress to the Olympic pool in a couple of weeks, and then on to salt water.

There will be a backup rig available at every test sequence.

 

[Boarderguy]

@ibj40 You could also try pushing some JB weld down into and past the threads. Let it dry, drill a small hole using the cover as a guide and then see if the screws will bite properly.

 

[tursiops]

@ibj40 You could also try pushing some JB weld down into and past the threads. Let it dry, drill a small hole using the cover as a guide and then see if the screws will bite properly.

This is exactly what I'd try.

 

[ibj40]

@ibj40 You could also try pushing some JB weld down into and past the threads. Let it dry, drill a small hole using the cover as a guide and then see if the screws will bite properly.

This is exactly what I'd try.

If the screws were coarse thread or self-tapping, I might go the JB Weld route. I use it frequently in my other hobby.

However, the screws are fine thread, and I'm afraid insufficient to cut a new thread into the epoxy.

I had thought about just a dab of Super Glue on the tip of the screw and threading it in that way.

Let that set up, and then see if they will tighten.

If we fail the Olympic pool test, it may call for desperate measures.

Thanks!

 

[Boarderguy]

If the screws were coarse thread or self-tapping, I might go the JB Weld route. I use it frequently in my other hobby.

However, the screws are fine thread, and I'm afraid insufficient to cut a new thread into the epoxy.

I had thought about just a dab of Super Glue on the tip of the screw and threading it in that way.

Let that set up, and then see if they will tighten.

If we fail the Olympic pool test, it may call for desperate measures.

Thanks!

Fine threads will cut into JB plastic weld fine if you pre drill just slightly smaller than the diameter of the shank (not the threads). The problem now is the soft plastic case has been stripped by an overzealous hand. Drill the hole out and jb weld it. I don't believe CA glue will give you the fix that is needed to compress your o-ring and seal the battery compartment.

 

[johndiver999]

I think you can probably also seal the entire battery and compartment by filling it with this low viscosity silicone. then you would have to dig the battery out with a knife when it dies.

 

[DIVEWATCHDOCTOR]

@ibj40,
I read all the posts concerning your problem and would like to suggest the following:

1) I am pretty sure because we have serviced a few computers in which one or more screws would not come all the way out, that the real problem is the lower screws were overtightened causing the female metallic inserts permanently attached to the plastic body to start turning with the increased torque applied by the screw. This was the case in all the situations we confronted. To validate what I'm saying remove the plastic hatch and observe what happens with the female inserts when tightening the lower screws. If they start turning that will confirm the theory.

2) If the inserts are capable of turning the only solution is to remove (actually carefully and slowly yank out the female inserts from the body), and attempt to "re-glue" them back. I'm not familiar with the properties of JB weld or RTV 732. We used a two-component epoxy with good adherence to plastics&metals. Watch out that the excess epoxy does not get inside the female inserts by having the screws in place and embedded in some oil or WD40 to be able to unscrew them once the epoxy cures.

3) I think waterproofing your computer at an Olympic pool (how deep is it? 15 feet?) even if successful, does not provide any guarantees about how waterproof it will be at, say, 100 feet with a water pressure seven times higher than in the pool. I suspect sooner or later it will flood having only two out of four tight screws. I recommend waterproofing it at least to the maximum depth you plan to be diving.

 

[ibj40]

@ibj40,
I read all the posts concerning your problem and would like to suggest the following:

1) I am pretty sure because we have serviced a few computers in which one or more screws would not come all the way out, that the real problem is the lower screws were overtightened causing the female metallic inserts permanently attached to the plastic body to start turning with the increased torque applied by the screw. This was the case in all the situations we confronted. To validate what I'm saying remove the plastic hatch and observe what happens with the female inserts when tightening the lower screws. If they start turning that will confirm the theory.

2) If the inserts are capable of turning the only solution is to remove (actually carefully and slowly yank out the female inserts from the body), and attempt to "re-glue" them back. I'm not familiar with the properties of JB weld or RTV 732. We used a two-component epoxy with good adherence to plastics&metals. Watch out that the excess epoxy does not get inside the female inserts by having the screws in place and embedded in some oil or WD40 to be able to unscrew them once the epoxy cures.

3) I think waterproofing your computer at an Olympic pool (how deep is it? 15 feet?) even if successful, does not provide any guarantees about how waterproof it will be at, say, 100 feet with a water pressure seven times higher than in the pool. I suspect sooner or later it will flood having only two out of four tight screws. I recommend waterproofing it at least to the maximum depth you plan to be diving.

Excellent advice!

Exactly what I needed.

Edit: My first impression was that the screws were stripped.

From what you are saying, the inserts are loose.

I agree with you about the number of atmospheres we are dealing with.

We’re going to do the pool session this weekend, and then I think I will use your solution.

Thanks!