Occy freeflowing when gently submerged

[JeemyT]

Hi all,
I'm experiencing a problem where my occy - facing upwards and inside a rubber bell holder - goes into freeflow as soon it submerges into water, even very gently. I can only stop it by facing it downwards and very very slowly rotating it back up. It doesn't freeflow once underwater. It was serviced only recently, including diaphragm replacement. The purge has been adjusted to be less sensitive also. Are there any obvious problems I'm missing? Is finding a holder that faces the occy downwards my only solution? Model is Apeks XTX50
Cheers.

 

[Kupu]

I'm experiencing a problem where my occy - facing upwards and inside a rubber bell holder - goes into freeflow as soon it submerges into water, even very gently. I can only stop it by facing it downwards and very very slowly rotating it back up. It doesn't freeflow once underwater. It was serviced only recently, including diaphragm replacement.

Sounds like it may have been tuned a bit hot for octopus use. If true then it should only take a slight adjustment of cracking pressure to fix the issue, or at least reduce the free flow tendency to a normal level.

 

[tursiops]

I hope he depressed the purge button while adjusting the crakcing pressure. Otherwise, he probably scored the seat and it will now leak/bubble. One of the dangers of getting (partial) advice from the internet.

 

[ChrisMBC]

I hope he depressed the purge button while adjusting the crakcing pressure. Otherwise, he probably scored the seat and it will now leak/bubble. One of the dangers of getting (partial) advice from the internet.

If he adjusted the spring adjuster (which, given he said he used an Allen wrench to do, I assume he did), you can adjust that without purging at the same time, at least according to Apeks.

 

[JeemyT]

If he adjusted the spring adjuster (which, given he said he used an Allen wrench to do, I assume he did), you can adjust that without purging at the same time, at least according to Apeks.

I did not depress the purge button whilst tightening the cracking adjustment screw. My initial adjustment was 3 turns tightening, however the freeflow still occurred, just at a lesser rate. If safe to do so, I'll tighten it another 3 turns.

 

[ChrisMBC]

It's safe to do, but I would say that 3 turns (full rotations?) sounds like quite a lot to me. If it's still freeflowing after that, I would suggest checking:
- IP of the first stage
- whether the spring in the 2nd stage balance chamber is worn out and not able to balance the IP under regular compression (which would explain why you have to crank the cracking adjustment really far down)
- orifice/seat for damage and correct positioning

 

[JeemyT]

It's safe to do, but I would say that 3 turns (full rotations?) sounds like quite a lot to me. If it's still freeflowing after that, I would suggest checking:
- IP of the first stage
- whether the spring in the 2nd stage balance chamber is worn out and not able to balance the IP under regular compression (which would explain why you have to crank the cracking adjustment really far down)
- orifice/seat for damage and correct positioning

Ahh, this is sounding a little too advanced for me. I might just take it in for a service. If it does come down to a worn out part (and the regs were bought second hand), I can't understand why the issue wasn't picked up in my last service. Seems like something basic to be honest.

 

[lowwall]

Most second stages that are adjusted for decent breathing will freeflow if taken face first (purge cover first) directly into the water.

If your reg doesn't have any pre-dive switches or adjustment levers that allow you to de-tune it, then your options to deal with it are A) live with it and flip it over in the water if it happens, B) figure out how to enter with it in a different orientation or C) tune it so the cracking pressure (in inches or mm of water) exceeds the distance between the diaphragm and mouthpiece outlet.

C is the most convenient, but breathing performance suffers. I go with A on my regs.

 

[JeemyT]

Most second stages that are adjusted for decent breathing will freeflow if taken face first (purge cover first) directly into the water.

If your reg doesn't have any pre-dive switches or adjustment levers that allow you to de-tune it, then your options to deal with it are A) live with it and flip it over in the water if it happens, B) figure out how to enter with it in a different orientation or C) tune it so the cracking pressure (in inches or mm of water) exceeds the distance between the diaphragm and mouthpiece outlet.

C is the most convenient, but breathing performance suffers. I go with A on my regs.

Cheers for the help mate. I might try using the magnetic holder I have to see if that makes a difference. Good to know though that my reg isn't f*cked and that it's normal.

 

[happy-diver]

Something has to be so mind your ABCs and find a knob and buy a knob mate

Adjusting knob for Apeks ATX/XTX 2 stages – Scubamafia

www.scubamafia.fi

Apeks Adjuster Screw mk2 | eBay

MK2 After Market Apeks Adjuster Screw. The screw is made from 316 Stainless Steel and has been CNC Turned to a high standard. These adjusters are a copy of the TX50 / TX100 adjuster, they with fit all models of ATX & XTX regs the only difference is that the genuine Apeks adjuster for the ATX/XTX...

www.ebay.co.uk

Apeks Adjuster Screw | eBay

After Market Apeks Adjuster Screw. The screw is made from 316 Stainless Steel and has been CNC Turned to a high standard. These adjusters are a copy of the TX50 / TX100 adjuster, they with fit all models of ATX & XTX regs the only difference is that the genuine Apeks adjuster for the ATX/XTX has...

www.ebay.co.uk

and open the service link I gave you up there and look at it

 

[Nemrod]

I hope he depressed the purge button while adjusting the crakcing pressure. Otherwise, he probably scored the seat and it will now leak/bubble. One of the dangers of getting (partial) advice from the internet.

Well, I would take advice from a number of people on this board including you long before some dive shop person.

Get rid of that bubble mouthpiece holder pronto. Just coil a loop and stick it through a D-ring or even consider a fishermans release knot and a bungee necklace. That mouthpiece holder prevents the second stage from flooding out and are bad about causing free flows.