O2 clean kits for Thermo valves

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I just disassemble and clean it by myself whatever the manufacture said. Of course, I am using a Simple Green, UC, and Christo-Lube. COB.

I use the exact same when I rebuild regs or valves.
 
Yeah.. It only takes 15~20 min per valve. Let's make our life easy....
I don't think that I'm using the same COB as you are??? It takes me a wee bit longer :wink:
 
Lee made a good statement. He said that "Thermo valves with the "E" stamp were already cleaner than YOU could get them" (my emphasis added on the you).

ANY material is O2 compatibile if you keep the heat low enough. ANY material O2 dangerous in the presence of enough heat. Any material can become fuel.

Thermo does not claim their valves are adequate for O2 service. That being said, many people use Thermo valves for O2 service. The trick is to clean often, clean well, and use a cleaning process that is designed to yield a level of cleanliness that would be suitable for oxygen exposure in elevated atmospheric temperatures.

It is also important to use common sense. The seat in a Thermo valve is made of nylon 6/6. This material is well known to be quite absorbative as plastics go. The seat is the backboard for every cubic foot of gas that enters your cylinder. To the degree that there is ANY hydrocarbon contamination in a gas in your cylinder, over repeated use, that hydrocarbon contamination might gather on that seat, creating an area that is far too contaminated to be considered safe for oxygen use. So, what is the common sense thing to do? Replace your seat often.

Remember, the components in a valve EVEN ON A BOTTLE EXPOSED ONLY TO PURE OXYGEN, is subject to contamination over time. Pure Oxygen is not pure. Nor is that bottle you get it from. Now, I will agree that this contamination process will take longer (I don't know how long....there is no data available to me that describes such experminatation), it still will occur. So, what is the common sense thing to do? Clean your valve often, use a defined process, clean it well, and replace the seat when you clean.

RIGHT ON OUR BOARD and another one many of use read daily, there have been REPEATED reports of oxygen fires on deco bottles JUST IN THE LAST YEAR! These were fires that happen in equipment owned by people who have a history of a great maintenance routine for there bottles and other equipment. So, something about the currently accepted "maintenance routine" with bottles and valves used in the presence of pure oxygen by technical divers is amiss.

You can best protect yourself by FOREVER rejecting the casual attitude that some take toward their bottles and valves. Adopt, instead, a cleaning routine based on research done by those who REALLY understand and have the ability to test their understanding in the lab environment. And do it often!

Anyway, just my opinion.

Phil Ellis
 
I was not aware of this. Care to elaborate what the "E" stamp constitutes?


The "E" code is used when Thermo builds a nitrox valve. All components are oxygen compatable and Chriso-lube is used. These valves are made to the same standard as Thermo's oxygen valves for other industries. Thermo takes the position (rightly) that the ocean enviroment in not an O2 clean enviroment and therefore NO valve is an O2 clean valve once used.
 
The "E" code is used when Thermo builds a nitrox valve. All components are oxygen compatable and Chriso-lube is used. These valves are made to the same standard as Thermo's oxygen valves for other industries.

Thermo takes the position (rightly) that the ocean enviroment in not an O2 clean enviroment and therefore NO valve is an O2 clean valve once used.

What if only used in fresh water....will it still be 02 clean then? :eyebrow: :wink:
 
I was not aware of this. Care to elaborate what the "E" stamp constitutes?

The E code is for 40% pre-mix O2. It is made to Thermo's spec's for oxygen clean. Thermo WILL NOT state anything beyond 40% as they have taken the position (I believe, rightfully) that the ocean enviroment is not an O2 clean eviroment and once the sealed package on the valve is broken that they have lost control of the cleanliness.
 
The E code is for 40% pre-mix O2. It is made to Thermo's spec's for oxygen clean. Thermo WILL NOT state anything beyond 40% as they have taken the position (I believe, rightfully) that the ocean enviroment is not an O2 clean eviroment and once the sealed package on the valve is broken that they have lost control of the cleanliness.


I would also add th thermo vales open quite fast compared to other valves.. This makes it difficult to control adiabatic compression while turning on the valve.. I defintely prefer a valve where I can slowly pressurize my regulator...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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