O-rings for Rebuilding 7/8 Sherwood Manifolds?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

That was my plan, until learning that (Doh!) Northeast carries a set.
If they just sell you a kit without giving you the o-ring dash numbers, then you're almost as bad off as before.

If they don't give you the dash numbers, be sure to measure the o-rings and determine what number they are. For future reference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OTF
Honestly, that was a **** manifold when it was new. It hasn't gotten better. It makes an OMS face seal manifold look reliable. A good hard knock on either end of either tank will start them leaking.
There is a reason everybody abandoned that design and went to double O-ringed barrels.
It is one thing to be cheap, but not at the risk of total gas loss.
 
Honestly, that was a **** manifold when it was new. It hasn't gotten better. It makes an OMS face seal manifold look reliable. A good hard knock on either end of either tank will start them leaking.
There is a reason everybody abandoned that design and went to double O-ringed barrels.
It is one thing to be cheap, but not at the risk of total gas loss.

Interesting to hear, thank you. I agree it seems like a somewhat silly design internally. Although everyone else I've asked said they were fine manifolds.
 
Interesting to hear, thank you. I agree it seems like a somewhat silly design internally. Although everyone else I've asked said they were fine manifolds.

I purchased mine new in 1994 or so. Dove it for several years with Sherwood Genesis (PST) HP 100's (purchased new about the same time) for extended range wreck dives in the Great Lakes. It always worked well. Never an issue. Even with very generous fills.

I still have it--although I ceased diving it in 1997 or so when I purchased HP 120's and an OMS manifold and bands.

I think you can trust your manifold. I wouldn't hesitate diving mine again if the need arises. Enjoy.

rx7diver

P.S. Historically, the "Sherwood Double-DIN" manifold was the first isolation manifold seen here in the U.S., I think. @tbone1004 or @Akimbo would know for sure, I think.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OTF
I purchased mine new in 1994 or so...

I have a bit more time now, so I'll continue: The only reason I replaced my Sherwood Genesis Double-DIN isolation manifold with the OMS isolation manifold was due to the bands. The bands I purchased with my Sherwood manifold were "first-generation" DiveRite bands that were/are a bit anemic, a bit flimsy. The HP 120's are much heavier than the HP 100's, especially when cave-filled, and almost immediately I decided I wanted to use beefier bands with the HP 120's. The OMS bands that match the OMS manifold were/are much sturdier, and much nicer.

(Note: The valve-to-valve distance for the OMS manifold is wider than the valve-to-valve distance for the Sherwood manifold.)

rx7diver

P.S. I still have my OMS manifold and bands, too. The OMS manifold is the "face-seal" manifold that someone above mentioned. This manifold, too, worked/s perfectly for me. I ceased diving it in 2003 or so, when I ceased diving manifolded doubles, after I had moved it, briefly, to double Luxfer Al 80's. (I had purchased the 3/4" modular valves to use with the isolation part.) However, I likely will resurrect it soon to use with baby doubles (OMS/Faber LP 46's) I am currently playing with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OTF
Honestly, that was a **** manifold when it was new. It hasn't gotten better. It makes an OMS face seal manifold look reliable. A good hard knock on either end of either tank will start them leaking.
There is a reason everybody abandoned that design and went to double O-ringed barrels.
It is one thing to be cheap, but not at the risk of total gas loss.
I had to rebuild one of these cluster****s today. What a total piece of ****! Thankfully I had the manual to walk me through the disassembly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OTF
I had to rebuild one of these cluster****s today. What a total piece of ****! Thankfully I had the manual to walk me through the disassembly.
Once you know to bake it at 300 F for 10 minutes, it comes right apart.
I still hate them and wouldn't personally use them in this day and age. You can buy quality manifolds pretty cheap.
 
Once you know to bake it at 300 F for 10 minutes, it comes right apart.
I still hate them and wouldn't personally use them in this day and age. You can buy quality manifolds pretty cheap.
I don't have an oven at work so I was going to soak in hot water. While I was heating the water, I gave it a try without heat and it came apart. Doesn't look as though it had thread locker on there before. But still... what a BS design. LOL.
 
I don't have an oven at work so I was going to soak in hot water. While I was heating the water, I gave it a try without heat and it came apart. Doesn't look as though it had thread locker on there before. But still... what a BS design. LOL.
I have a toaster oven on my bench. It gets used for loctite and warming bearings for install.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom