Nocturnal lights

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

There are so many excellent lights out there (GreenForce. Nocturnal, Metalsub) that I'm never going to be able to decide on a light.

I may just buy a cheaper UK or Princeton light this year and save my pennies so I can afford one of these great lights next year. At this point I don't even know what I want anymore :)
 
scubamickey:
There are so many excellent lights out there (GreenForce. Nocturnal, Metalsub) that I'm never going to be able to decide on a light.

I may just buy a cheaper UK or Princeton light this year and save my pennies so I can afford one of these great lights next year. At this point I don't even know what I want anymore :)


I feel you pain.............
 
Thanks for all the great information, I really appreciate it.

For the great sales representatives, your great effort is appreciated!
I think once a detail enough spec and cost are posted, people who are interested
would definitely ask for more detail if not messaging you directly. So far when I read certain web pages from your companies, there are
some basic info I am looking for e.g. intensity of the light in lumen, if it is composed
of multiple LED's then maybe the total intensity, then lumen/watt. If the LED's are
of particular standard like, luxeon, it's also useful to know.

Some of the divers (here and other forums) are providing very good feedback, thanks!!!

Some questions....
Starting last year, I started to read more about the LED lights, at the same time, I realized that some new LED's were invented (US, Japan + other countries), at least 3 that I have heard of, some are even mentioned by some of you. Just in case, if your company also plan to use new LED's, please post it here. The brightness of LED's is jumping.
e.g. http://www.physorg.com/news4538.html

Thanks!!!

Finally, thanks for Tobin for his great explaination! There is so much related knowledge shared in this forum, thanks for all! Here's some online pointers, I would also like to share: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature
 
The SLX isn't the BRIGHTEST light out there, but it fits the needs of a lot of divers. Those who have tested it or those who are currently using it are absolutely delighted by it and that's all I have to say at this point. The SLX is for divers that are looking for a very durable, lightweight, compact, and fail-proof dive light that can last several dives. We do offer a wide variety of dive lights and if you are looking for a very powerful light for maximum visibility, I would recommend the SL50 or the TL series lights.

Meanwhlie I'm open to answering any questions that you guys have. I don't currently have any pictures of the lights mounted on a tank but some of our customers might have one. I'll PM some of them and see if they can help me post some pictures. Right now I'm very swamped with the upcomming official release of the SLX and the SLX Auto Focus Light.
 
Here's a picture posted by one of ScubaBoard's members:

http://www.scubaboard.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30911&d=1142641772

http://www.scubaboard.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30910&d=1142641749

Here's his review :)

I used it in the Potomac River this weekend doing a science dive - visibility about 1 foot. My light with the 50 watt halogen 35degreee bulb blasted away the 10W HID my buddy had. (Those lights were the main way we get track of each other!

What aklso made my day was when I went looking for a narrower beam bulb, and found one (50w, 15 degree) at Home Deport for $7.00! Try that with an HID bulb!
 
cool_hardware52:
If one reduces the voltage imposed on the filament to 80% of the design voltage, i.e. underdriven (scout anybody?) You will have a ~50% reduction in lightoutput, and a spectral shift towards red. The life of the lamps will be greatly increased, ~1000%.

So does it mean that it is possible to use a 85W HID bulb, say, 7000 K color temp, use 95% of the applied voltage and get a long lasting HID light?


You mean the scout light is using under apply voltage?
 
Hey Tim, I am interested in buying a light from nocturnal; however, upon entering the checkout page, at the bottom of the page it said "fatal error" and I could not go on with my order. This problem persisted regardless what product i checkout.

BTW, is the quantity of "clearence demo specials" limited?

thanks
 
Thanks for notifying me Jimmy, I will have a look at it. Ill send the rest of the response via PM.
 
ScubaFrog01:
Has anyone tried the nocturnal lights? I've been considering a canister light for some time now. Truth be told I don't know a thing about them. Why do some lights have twin light heads while other just have a single light head? Is there a true benefit either way? I'm looking at the TL50 Pro Rechargeable Dive Light, any input would be great.
NLI Tim mentioned something that seemed to address your last two questions. He mentioned "video" in his reply. If you light your subject (still or video) from only one side, you'll get some very stark shaddows. One of my buddies had one of his strobes fail on a dive trip, and he didn't have parts/tools to resolve it in Honduras. Although many over the pictures are very cool with the shaddows, they weren't natural looking, and weren't what he was trying to record. (The attached photo isn't his best picture, but it is a good example of lighting from one side.) The Nocturnal Lights home page has an image of two lights on one camera tray. They're showing a canister light on one arm, and an SL50 on the other, but you'd get the idea.

...and for anyone who makes it through 12 pages of this post... it appears that you can still get a 15% discount at www.nocturnallights.com for being a ScubaBoard member. Enter scubaboard15 in the coupon window at checkout. It makes a really good offer, 15% better.

For my own next light purchase I'm trying to decide between the Nocturnal SL50 and the Brightstar 24. The Brightstar HID is supposed to be an awesomely bright light. (For the silly people reading this, perhaps you can tell me how to waterproof their 9x35w searchlight that puts out 28,800 lumens... which would be bright!)

The Noctunal light comes with 3 bulbs, so it arrives pretty versatal. The folks at Nocturnal sell 3 different wattage bulbs, in two beam spreads, in two light color temperatures. Since they use a common design of bulb you can buy it in even more variations. "Bulb Barn" (who I've never bought anything from, I just found it in a web search) shows MR16 bulbs with some incredible lumen numbers. So incredible, that I doubt they're true. For instance item #168 says that it puts out 10,000 lumens!

While researching batteries I found something that caused me a bit of concern about the Noctural lights. (If they offered a Goodman handle, I would not have been looking for parts to build my own light ...something for Nocturnal to consider.) The prices of batteries make me think there is no way I'd make my own, for enough less to make it a viable option (particularly with the 25% Demo discount, and the 15% ScubaBoard discount) ...but Battery Barn does not suggest using their similarly sized battery for halogen bulbs over 30 watts. (They say it's fine for an HID 50 watt light, because of the slower initial draw.) I don't know if/how Nocturnal overcame that hurdle, but perhaps that's one of the advantages of buying a complete (designed by professionals) light. ...not to mention that if I made my own light, it would look like a lump of PVC, and theirs looks so dang sexy.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom