New Faber LP50's

[rx7diver]

Question;
other than they look cool what advantage in diving do you expect over a single 100? I agree on the possible redundancy to a point but otherwise it’s just double the expense for the given capacity.

cool looking and personal enjoyment are good enough reasons in my opinion.

@lexvil,

A couple of more advantages that have not already been mentioned:

1. Because the LP46/50 has a smaller diameter (5.5", vs. 7.25" of a HP100), it locates the DH "can" closer to the diver's back--which nets increased performance.

2. Because the solid-bar, single-outlet manifold has the outlet "below" the manifold (instead of "on top of" the manifold), it locates the DH "can" lower down the diver's back--which nets increased performance.

rx7diver

 

[rx7diver]

Just dove my lp50 twinset (modern single post manifold) with my DH this weekend for the first time. So nice!

My other setup is 63's, and will also be putting together a set of lp72's for this summer.

Nice! Pics? Fresh water? Wetsuit? Did you use a BC? If so, then which one?

rx7diver

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I'm starting scuba divers anomonous soon

I would like to become a member!

 

[rhwestfall]

Nice! Pics? Fresh water? Wetsuit? Did you use a BC? If so, then which one?

rx7diver

No good pics of the setup were taken topside...

Installing a memorial plaque in the St. Lawrence River for one of our SB own... above it is another SB'er who passed 7 years ago... they were best friends, and I am lucky to have known both of them.

5/7mm one piece custom from Wetwear. Water was 61 degrees.

I have a DiveRite CCR wing I really like to use with my doubles and my DH. It has an offset inflator that works nicely with the DH cans. The bungie also keeps it happy with the smaller tanks. Mounted on a VDH Vintage Plate, and a custom harness I put together.

wing: Dive Rite CCR Wing

As said above, I've used it with AL63 doubles and now LP50 doubles.

 

[rx7diver]

A strange thing happened: When I was separating my LP46 doubles this weekend (to switch the hardware over to my new LP50's and to have the LP46's hydro'd), one of the bolts seized up and would not budge after I had backed it off about an inch. Using my quarter-inch-drive socket wrench and box-end wrench, I was unable to get it to budge either forward or backward.

Today I took it to my RX-7 mechanic to have him use his impact tools on it. He, too, couldn't get the nut to budge. This is stainless steel hardware (from Piranha), only a few months old, and only dove in the swimming pool a couple of times.

Strange. (I am thinking a thread broke off under the nut, and things seized up when I was torquing things.)

My mechanic cut the bolt.

Lesson learned: I ordered a new bolt kit from Piranha. I have "always" kept a replacement nut, washer, and wing nut in my save-a-dive kit. From now on I will keep a complete replacement bolt assembly in my save-a-dive kit.

rx7diver

 

[Gone for diving]

SS galls up very easily, especially on its self, high loads, and when using power tools, to much heat is created,,,

I normally make my own studs for doubles,
I use thread rod, and nuts,
But I always run a die over the threads,
And it always removes some material and forms the original rolled threads.

Then I always use and oil, Like new clean engine oil, not wd40,
If I do that i have had good success.

 

[rx7diver]

SS galls up very easily, especially on its self, high loads, and when using power tools, to much heat is created,,,

I normally make my own studs for doubles,
I use thread rod, and nuts,
But I always run a die over the threads,
And it always removes some material and forms the original rolled threads.

Then I always use and oil, Like new clean engine oil, not wd40,
If I do that i have had good success.

Thanks, @Rol diy. Good info to know.

This was never an issue for me with the bolt kit sold with my 1994-era Dive Rite bands or the bolt kit sold with my 1998-era OMS bands. And I torqued those a lot more (due to the weight of the HP100's and HP120's I used them on, and due to the fact that those are skinnier bands).

Maybe the grades of SS are different. Or, maybe this particular bolt was defective.

I will use your suggestion to apply a bit of lubricant in the future. Maybe I'll use my dad's tap and die tools to clean up the next bolt kit before assembling things.

Thanks,

rx7diver

 

[Gone for diving]

Most hardware the external threads are rolled, which tends not to leave a nice finish on the threads, compared to cut threads,

If you run a die over it, it will be so much better..

After I wrecked a few studs, I decided I needed to do something different...

 

[John C. Ratliff]

I have a pair of these twin AL 50s, but from a different manufacturer.

IMG_1460 by John Ratliff, on Flickr

I dive them often and love them. I use mine with a military harness that puts the regulator right against my back, between my shoulder blades. That way, even the Snark III, which places the regulator higher on the manifold than other regulators, sits where it should.

One of the advantages no one has mentioned is the placement of the weight. Doubles without a backpack put the cylinders against the large back muscles and the buttocks muscles, rather than against the spine like a single cylinder on the back would. This makes quite a difference in comfort, especially when bending over where the cylinder weight is either against those muscles or the spine.

SeaRat

 

[rx7diver]

If all goes well tomorrow (i.e., if I can wake up early enough), I hope to take my Faber LP50's + DH + VDH Classic Plate for a short dive in a shallow diver's quarry located about two hours downstate. Actually, this will be more of a "proof of concept" weight check since I don't have a doubles wing for small doubles yet. My college student daughter (recently certified) wants to come with. We'll see ...

I'm going to use your quick-and-dirty duct tape solution for a pull rod holder, @John C. Ratliff, since my idea to use paracord was a bust. Thanks for the idea!

rx7diver