New Faber LP50's

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rx7diver

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My brand-spankin' new Faber LP50's arrived today. My intention is to use them either as manifolded doubles, BM independent doubles, or double-hose regulator doubles--when diving fresh water in a thin wetsuit.

I've been wanting to obtain a pair for a very long time. Finally pulled the trigger last week. I started a thread (linked below) several years ago that suggested to me that they might work nicely for me.

And more recently, after assembling a set of small doubles for my double-hose regulator, using my old OMS (Faber) LP 46's and a U.S. Divers solid-bar, single-outlet manifold, it occurred to me that LP 50's would work better for me for this application (due to what seems to be better buoyancy characteristics).

The attached pic shows the LP50's next to my LP46 doubles and my old-school 72.

I hope to get a VIP for the LP50's tomorrow (I purchased them without valves), and afterward I will assemble them as doubles. Can't wait to try them in the wet. Maybe as soon as this weekend.

rx7diver

New_FaberLP50s_20220616.jpeg

Test driving a new piece of software, I drew the attached graphic, which might generate an interesting discussion here.

Safe Diving,

rx7diver

P.S. I've included the code in case someone else wants to play.

EDIT: Graphic won't upload. I'll try again later.

It's here now. The thick-wetsuit-ed diver on left is wearing a Scubapro Stabilizing Jacket (SSJ), inflated at depth to compensate for a single full, heavy steel cylinder. The thick-wetsuit-ed diver on the right is wearing a conventional BP/W, inflated at depth to compensate for a single full, heavy steel cylinder. Both divers are swimming side by side, coming toward you, the viewer. To keep things simple, I didn't include lower legs and fins.

I am now one step closer to completing the baby doubles (for my double hose reg) that I've posted about in several threads: I ordered (from Grainger dot com) and earlier today received the "Binding Posts" that thread onto the carriage bolts that pass through the tank bands.

I drilled larger the holes in my back plate, but I still need to cut down the carriage bolts (a bit too long). This is where things stand do far:

ETA: I posted about the harness (Post #5) here: Twin 45's back from Hydro and valves/manifold rebuilt.

ETA: And I posted about the manifold (Post #43) and the bands (Post #47) here: Twin Set Considerations/ Manifold.

rx7diver

View attachment 667353 View attachment 667355 View attachment 667357
 
If you are wanting DH doubles I would strongly urge you to use the 46's unless you are well over 6ft *like 6'6"*. The 50's are awfully long and to get the can positioned right they will be hanging down below your butt.
 
I love my 50's backmount doubles for shore diving.

I have 2 more sets on the way.
 
If you are wanting DH doubles I would strongly urge you to use the 46's unless you are well over 6ft *like 6'6"*. The 50's are awfully long and to get the can positioned right they will be hanging down below your butt.

Yes, @tbone1004, the LP46's work extremely well for me--except, as mentioned, they are a bit negative for me in fresh water, in a thin wetsuit (or no wetsuit). I was really hoping to be able to dive double-hose doubles without a BC. On paper, the LP50's look like they will be better for me:

OMS (Faber) LP46: Buoyancy (w/valve) in salt water: Full = -4#; "Empty" = 0#. Per SCUBA Cylinder Specifications – Huron Scuba, Snorkel & Adventure Travel Inc. PADI 5 star IDC in Ann Arbor, MI.

Faber LP50: Buoyancy (w/valve) in salt water: Full = -2.43#; "Empty" = +1.24#. Per Faber LP50 Cylinder, Grey.

Manifold, VDH Al "Classic" double-hose backplate, SS doubles rings and harness hardware, etc., should make the LP50's a pleasure to dive in fresh water in a thin wetsuit.

My old-school 72 wears just fine for me with my double-hose reg, so the LP50 doubles, likely will wear a bit better.

I'll add feedback once I go diving with them.

rx7diver
 
Question;
other than they look cool what advantage in diving do you expect over a single 100? I agree on the possible redundancy to a point but otherwise it’s just double the expense for the given capacity.

cool looking and personal enjoyment are good enough reasons in my opinion.
 
Question;
other than they look cool what advantage in diving do you expect over a single 100? I agree on the possible redundancy to a point but otherwise it’s just double the expense for the given capacity.

cool looking and personal enjoyment are good enough reasons in my opinion.

They trim out like a dream. Also better weight distribution while shore diving but keeping the same configuration for drills.
 
Question;
other than they look cool what advantage in diving do you expect over a single 100? I agree on the possible redundancy to a point but otherwise it’s just double the expense for the given capacity.

cool looking and personal enjoyment are good enough reasons in my opinion.

I dive 50s SM. They are much lighter than my 85s. Advantages are: you get to dive your same configuration with much lighter tanks, plus redundancy!

They’re ideal for recreational solo dives. Plus they are very nice for CCR diluent/bailout. I have two pairs of 50s.
 
I dive the 50s SM. They are much lighter than my 85s. Advantages are: you get to dive your same configuration with much lighter tanks, plus redundancy!

They’re ideal for recreational solo dives. Plus they are very nice for CCR diluent/bailout. I have two pairs of 50s.
Agree for SM, talking back mount though.
 
Agree for SM, talking back mount though.

It’s the same principle. Whether BM or SM, you dive 50s so you can have the same configuration as you do for tech diving, but with lighter weight. Plus you have redundancy over a single tank.

And totally agree with @formernuke about 50s trimming out like a dream. They do that SM, too.
 
They trim out like a dream. Also less weight while shore diving but keeping the same configuration for drills.
I recall that you have some back issues (?) but for the most part total weight to dive remains the same.
 

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