New dry suit, got some questions...

[James Sizemore]

I dive in southern California with typical 75-100 minute dives and am looking to purchase a dry suit. I am pretty well set on a seaskin nova due to their custom sizing and price. Here are the features I am thinking of adding and would like some opinions on the items I am selecting. This will be my first drysuit.

Nova membrane suit,
Front zipper, with protective zipper over traditional metal zipper,
Neck seal: Nova orust with Siflex seal
Kubi dry glove systems (this is one of my specific questions later)
Moving the dump valve to DIR position, further forward on the arm,
Compressed neoprene socks,
Additional protection on the back, butt, and shoulders,
Knee pads,
Telescopic torso,
large zipper pockets on both legs,
and lastly, some under suits. 250 full and 150 shortie. both high wick thinsulate

for a pee valve, I'm thinking of a balanced halcyon valve.

So now a couple specific questions,
The kubi systems, if I want to have a silicon wrist seal and the option for the dry gloves, do I need both? I like the idea of being able to still dive if I puncture a dry glove and switch to wet gloves.

I will be diving in southern California, with typical depths of 75-100 feet and average water temps of 50-55 deg F. I typically get cold in my 8mm with vest and hood. Would a 250gram under suit be sufficient? Or would adding the 150 shortie be ideal as well?
Would I need the extra allowance option to accommodate both of these suits? (this is an option they provide to allow thicker undersuits to fit)

Lastly, if I want to order extra seals to keep on hand, how many is a good amount to have extra? How long do silicon seals store before that become damaged from age?

 

[EireDiver606]

You’ll need a 400g undergarment at least but your dydration, how well you stay warm before the dive, and diet can make a big difference.

 

[lexvil]

Nova is a good choice, zipper cover is a good idea, I would go with the plastic zipper which I put in my Nova when the brass one failed but the standard zip is good.

Quick change neck is the only way to go. May want to think about the warm neck add.

Both of my suits came with si tech oval rings and after trying the Antares dry gloves I like the dry idea so I’m giving the Virgo rings a shot, also since Seaskin has the best prices got the Virgo, a set of round stiff rings (to try the quick glove rings I had in my shop) and a pair of gloves, delivered by mail forless than the sale price available here.

I use the trigon pee valve, absoultly no complaints with it, since try it first on my neoprene suit I bough one from Seaskin for my Nova.

Muni gloves are well regarded.

I don’t see the need for the additional protective stuff, save the money.

I would do the telescopic torso, wasn’t an option when I bought my suit.

I use heavy wool which I have found to the the best base layer and various fleece main garments, usually Hollis 450 but sometimes I use a lighter top or double the wool.

You may have noticed the low cost or the siflex seals from them I would get at least one full set of spares but would think two full sets will hold you a long time.

 

[James Sizemore]

I try to pay attention to those things as well, but I’m pretty thin, so I lose heat just looking at the water.

I have heard some negative things about the longevity of plastic drysuit zippers, do you feel that a plastic dry zip will last?

I’m hesitant to remove the extra protections, I do mainly shore diving and will often sit on a wall or bench after suiting up and before heading out. I don’t intend to abuse this suit like I do my wetsuit (like in lobster season!) but I would hate to wear our my bottom sitting on a wall. I also use a backing plate and wing. I suppose that those are smooth, and I could save the money on the back protection.

 

[lexvil]

I’ve been diving since ‘71, I have heard negative things about every change that has come along, like B/C’s, computers etc. brass zippers are so easy to damage that I wanted to try the more flexible tizip.

The cost of the extra protection is low but I’ve just not seen the need, I don’t baby my gear.
I didn’t spec the extra room for thick insulation and have plenty of room to stay warm here in the Monterey Bay.

 

[EireDiver606]

I’ve heard that quick neck title seals on a Drysuit are a bad idea because you don’t really need them, and they can make it hard to reach valves. Is this true? I was recommended against a neck tite quick change system.

 

[Ryan Mcshane]

I’ve heard that quick neck title seals on a Drysuit are a bad idea because you don’t really need them, and they can make it hard to reach valves. Is this true? I was recommended against a neck tite quick change system.

I have one on my suit. No issue reaching valves but it can be uncomfortable when wearing a lightweight under suit. Next suit I buy it won’t bother with it.

 

[James Sizemore]

Also, I spend a lot of time camping, hiking, and other outdoor activities and already have some wicking thermal shirts and pants that I could wear under fleece sweat pants and jackets. Would those be sufficient? Maybe I should skip ordering the thinsulate from seaskin until I do a couple of dives and decide if the fleece is working out or not?

SiTech has released a new neck seal that is supposed to be more flexible then previous seals. I’ll have to add the warm neck. Would that interfere with a hood?

 

[Ryan Mcshane]

Also, I spend a lot of time camping, hiking, and other outdoor activities and already have some wicking thermal shirts and pants that I could wear under fleece sweat pants and jackets. Would those be sufficient? Maybe I should skip ordering the thinsulate from seaskin until I do a couple of dives and decide if the fleece is working out or not?

SiTech has released a new neck seal that is supposed to be more flexible then previous seals. I’ll have to add the warm neck. Would that interfere with a hood?

The fleece won’t work. I’ve seen people try, it never ends well.

 

[Lorenzoid]

The fleece won’t work. I’ve seen people try, it never ends well.

Fleece sweats and a wicking baselayer works well for "sub-tropical" drysuit diving (temps above 70F), but not for the temps the OP is talking about.