New bottom timer

[sheck33]

Ok, I am debating between the UWATEC Aladin TEC2 and the Digital330m.

Apparently the Digital 330m is only available in the metric version. I wonder if I should use a metric gauge when everyone else is using feet based gauges and all MOD's on bottles are marked in feet. While the conversion between m and ft is straightforward, I'd like to know what you guys think about adding that extra step in calculating depth. It took me years to get used to feet to begin with as I 'think' metric.

For you TEC2 users, does this computer stay in gauge mode once you set it to gauge mode?

What is there to justify spending $100+ more on the TEC2?

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

Yes, it stays in gauge mode once you put it in.

I chose the Tec2G because it counts in seconds, and has the resettable countdown timer for timing deco stops. If you don't need (or want) those features, then you probably can't justify the extra $$ ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[Gombessa]

$400 for a bottom timer? Yikes. At that rate, I'd live with the gauge mode on a real computer, or consider going old-school with a watch and an analog depth gauge.

FWIW, the Uwatec bottom timer is not gone. The "old" model that goes to 90 meters is discontinued, but it's been replaced by the Digital 330, a nearly identical model that goes to 330 meters, doubles the log book memory, and has a few other features (average depth and ascent speed I think). The 330m is available in the US in imperial. Mine reads in feet.

 

[sheck33]

$400 for a bottom timer? Yikes. At that rate, I'd live with the gauge mode on a real computer, or consider going old-school with a watch and an analog depth gauge.

FWIW, the Uwatec bottom timer is not gone. The "old" model that goes to 90 meters is discontinued, but it's been replaced by the Digital 330, a nearly identical model that goes to 330 meters, doubles the log book memory, and has a few other features (average depth and ascent speed I think). The 330m is available in the US in imperial. Mine reads in feet.

You say the 330m is available in imperial. I have searched online and cannot find an imperial unit for sale. I have read claims that this unit is not available in imperial. Where did you buy your unit??

I agree $400 is kind of ridiculous for a bottom timer. But I'd prefer one gauge on my wrist instead of two.

 

[sheck33]

Yes, it stays in gauge mode once you put it in.

I chose the Tec2G because it counts in seconds, and has the resettable countdown timer for timing deco stops. If you don't need (or want) those features, then you probably can't justify the extra $$ ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

The TEC2 does seem like a nice alternative, but a bit pricey.

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

The TEC2 does seem like a nice alternative, but a bit pricey.

Not to a tech diver ... the price of a Tec2G amounts to about the cost of a dive ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[sheck33]

Not to a tech diver ... the price of a Tec2G amounts to about the cost of a dive ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

Very good point. Considering the diving I am planning on doing I guess the TEC2 is indeed the better choice.

 

[SparticleBrane]

I don't understand why dive computers (or bottom timers) crap out so often, and why companies make $1,500 dive computers when they can't make cheapo computers that always work.
I've had a few Uwatec bottom timers crap out -- reading weird depths or saying I'm 2ft underwater when I'm gearing up in the parking lot.


Honestly, here's the main pieces of a bottom timer/dive computer:

• pressure transducer
• thermometer
• LCD display
• battery
• computer chip with a bit of hard-coded firmware
• memory
• waterproof pressure case
• water sensor (not 100% sure how this works, I'm sure it involves electrical current between a few contacts)
• board to solder stuff together

That's it. Nothing more. I don't have the engineering/programming knowledge or know-how to make one of these things but I spent enough time in engineering to know that it really wouldn't be difficult to make one that works every time you use it (assuming no flooding).

Awhile ago I took apart my old DiveRite NiTek Plus, found the main chip, and looked up the product number. Turns out it's just a clock IC.


This is the inside of a Uwatec bottom timer. It ended up in this condition after it told me I was 2ft deep in the parking lot, after a long stressful trip where nothing was working. It had a run-in with a hammer. :11:
Note the lack of complicated stuff -- board, LCD display, battery, and case.

Why these instruments break so often is completely beyond me.

 

[caseybird]

I don't understand why dive computers (or bottom timers) crap out so often, and why companies make $1,500 dive computers when they can't make cheapo computers that always work.
I've had a few Uwatec bottom timers crap out -- reading weird depths or saying I'm 2ft underwater when I'm gearing up in the parking lot.


Honestly, here's the main pieces of a bottom timer/dive computer:

• pressure transducer
• thermometer
• LCD display
• battery
• computer chip with a bit of hard-coded firmware
• memory
• waterproof pressure case
• water sensor (not 100% sure how this works, I'm sure it involves electrical current between a few contacts)
• board to solder stuff together

That's it. Nothing more. I don't have the engineering/programming knowledge or know-how to make one of these things but I spent enough time in engineering to know that it really wouldn't be difficult to make one that works every time you use it (assuming no flooding).

Awhile ago I took apart my old DiveRite NiTek Plus, found the main chip, and looked up the product number. Turns out it's just a clock IC.


This is the inside of a Uwatec bottom timer. It ended up in this condition after it told me I was 2ft deep in the parking lot, after a long stressful trip where nothing was working. It had a run-in with a hammer. :11:
Note the lack of complicated stuff -- board, LCD display, battery, and case.

Why these instruments break so often is completely beyond me.

Well, when you hit them with a hammer....

 

[Gombessa]

You say the 330m is available in imperial. I have searched online and cannot find an imperial unit for sale. I have read claims that this unit is not available in imperial. Where did you buy your unit??

Mine is from Any Water Sports in San Jose. There are quite a few tech divers in the Seattle area, I'm sure TS&M or any of the others can point you towards a local shop that carries them. IIRC, msrp is about $230, and I've seen them for a tad over $200.