Need yoke solution for Sherwood (7/8) tank

[WD8CDH]

Guys have you seen a din valve whitout a relief valve?? do they make valves like this???

Do you mean without a burst disk or do you mean without the little blead hole on the side?

 

[MajorJohnson]

If you have a modular valve on the tank, you can put a "200 bar" H valve on it and use that valve with a Yoke insert. Most DIN valves are actually rated for 4500psi whether they are "200 bar" or "300 bar". If you look hereURL deleted) you will see the "200 bar" H valve even comes with a burst disk for 3500psi service pressure.

Thanks for trying to be helpful I. I do not have a modular valve, nor have I been able to find one with the 7/8" thread I need. I checked the link you provided, but all the valves I found were the 3/4" thread.

 

[WD8CDH]

OMS makes a 7/8" modular valve but I haven't seen it in catalogs but I have seen them in person. Thermo makes one for sure, I own several. Try calling North East Scuba Supply on the phone. Not on their website, but they have stocked 7/8" modular valves.

 

[Graeme Tolton]

Check this out....
XS Scuba Thermo Stand Alone Cylinder Valves

 

[Hank658]

Check this out....
XS Scuba Thermo Stand Alone Cylinder Valves

Nice valves, to be sure, but the 7/8" is only a DIN fitting. All of the convertible valves are 3/4", no help for a Sherwood HP. Probably better, as others have said, to leave them as they are.

 

[WD8CDH]

That's why you use a "300 bar" main valve and a "200 bar" H valve. The main valve will fit the tank and the H valve can be adapted to yoke. Both parts will easily handle 3500psi.

 

[MajorJohnson]

OMS makes a 7/8" modular valve but I haven't seen it in catalogs but I have seen them in person. Thermo makes one for sure, I own several. Try calling North East Scuba Supply on the phone. Not on their website, but they have stocked 7/8" modular valves.

I called Northeast, spoke to the owner, and he said no such valve exists. I see from the Thermo catalog that was referenced here that I could use two valves and a plug to do what I need but that would involve a second on-off valve in series, and would be way too kludegy.

I'm giving serious thought to machining off the last few threads of the DIN 300 connection to become DIN 200 length. This would allow me to use the spin-out adapter. Does anybody have any sound engineering reason why this is a stupid idea?

 

[japan-diver]

As this is only one tank why not convert one reg to DIN and thats the one you use with the one DIN tank, DIN to Yoke converters are cheap on any number of web sites so if you travel and need to use the reg thats not a problem either.

 

[MajorJohnson]

As this is only one tank why not convert one reg to DIN and thats the one you use with the one DIN tank, DIN to Yoke converters are cheap on any number of web sites so if you travel and need to use the reg thats not a problem either.

The reason I don't want one rogue tank and one rogue reg is so I can put any reg on any tank, either any of my family's other tanks or a rental tank, and not have to worry about disassemby of my regs and yokes.

 

[Hank658]

I'm giving serious thought to machining off the last few threads of the DIN 300 connection to become DIN 200 length. This would allow me to use the spin-out adapter. Does anybody have any sound engineering reason why this is a stupid idea?

I don't know if it's a sound engineering decision but in my opinion if one was made one way, (7 thread DIN, 300 bar) and the other type was made another way (5 thread DIN/yoke 200bar) then there must be a reason. If nobody makes a 7/8 convertible valve then I'm betting there's also a reason for that as well. While nothing may ever happen I don't feel like finding out with 3500 psi shoving a block of brass into the back of my noggin....