Need to purchase snorkel gear

[Testudo]

.I was not referring to your post since I did not quote it. I just happened to post after your post. Maybe I should have directed my response to the OP better.

Whenever the discussion of snorkels comes up with SCUBA divers and freedivers, there are those that have been snorkeling since 4-5 years old that say use a simple J-tube because that is all we had back then. There are also those that may toss around the term "gimmick" quite a bit. I also see this with discussions on mask purge valves.

As with any piece of equipment, it is what works best and is most comfortable for the user, so they can spend an enjoyable time on the water.

Best Wishes!
Charles

No worries, didn't notice the other mention of "gimmick" earlier. I would agree that purge valves on snorkels are a product improvement and not a gimmick (if designed to high degree of quality). Not sold on mask purge valve value. However, I would label the various "dry" devices I've tried as being gimmicks. Flapping valves stopping the airflow at unexpected times is not what I call an improvement. Seems like most posters have a universal appreciation for the Tusa line in whichever design. Your last sentence sums up what matters most.


EDIT: To clarify, IMO purge valves on snorkels are useful for surface snorkeling (not commenting on freediving) to easily clear any water that that waves, chop or an occasional dive introduce to the chamber compared to a J-tube type snorkel (not that they are hard to clear).

 

[Slamfire]

I've been using snorkels since I was 5. I prefer simple J-tubes with no valves whatsoever. And this is not because it was all I had available. I did have some snorkels with purge valves. Purge valves really do not represent any advantage if you know how to properly work a j-tube. There are techniques to properly clear a j-tube with minimum effort. Ascend vertically looking directly at the surface. When you get to a foot or 2 below the surface start a gentle easy exhalation. Because you are looking up the tube's end is in a lower position than the mouth piece. The objective of the slow gentle exhalation is to fill up the entire tube with a bubble. Keep exhaling as you breach the surface and move your face down into the water so that the end of the now dry tube ends up higher than the mouthpiece. Take a careful inhalation keeping in mind that your first breath could include some water that you don't want to get into your lungs. If you timed it right you'll be surprised how dry that first breath is.

 

[cmburch]

As discussed in earlier post. It may be best to spit the snorkel out when submerging. For short shallow drops, keeping the snorkel in may be easier. Many freedivers spit the snorkel out for safety. May want to practice to see how it works for each individual.

Normally if I am down longer than 45s, I will breath out a few bubbles and follow them to the surface with an outstretched arm to clear an opening if surfacing in kelp and surface with my head out of water and put my snorkel back in. Very little water to clear out bottom valve.

A semi-dry snorkel has a lower purge, a lower diverter, and an upper diverter.

If surfacing with snorkel in mouth, the water drops out top diverter then flows to the bottom diverter out purge valve. The small amount of saltwater is easily exhausted out bottom purge valve.

No noise from blast clearing, no synchronization required, and most importantly no accidental swallowing of saltwater for beginners, no residual saltwater left in tube for beginner to deal with.

If wind or wave action causes water to wash overhead, the water that enters the tube will be diverted out the top diverter. Water that makes it down the tube will be diverted towards the purge valve by the lower diverter.

Residual saltwater sloshing in the tube after each breath can be an annoyance as well as making noise.

The AL Impulse 3 is a large bore nonrestrictive easy breathing fresh air snorkel. The comfo-bite mouth piece is good for those that clench on mouthpieces and stay for long periods in the water. It is also good for working out in the ocean if swimming each morning for exercise. Residual water is kept away from the mouth by the diverter and goes out the purge valve.

 

[diver_doug]

For the mask, like others have said, fit is most important. However, I'd recommend checking out the Atomic Frameless...everyone I know that has the mask (including myself) loves it. Also the mares LiquidSkin and Cressi Big Eyes are really good masks.

For the snorkel, do yourself a favor and DON'T get a basic J-snorkel; I wouldn't recommend one of those for anybody, especially a new snorkeler. Semi-dry is really the way to go and your 2 best bets would be the Impulse 3, or the Tusa Platina Hyperdry II. Both snorkels work really well, but the Tusa is more streamlined and compact; but you should be happy with either of those.

 

[Testudo]

2nd the Cressi Big Eye mask recommendation (if it fits). I find the Big Eyes and the Big Eyes Evolution models to be among the best for snorkeling. Low profile and good field of view, plus a good fit on my face.

 

[Slamfire]

For the snorkel, do yourself a favor and DON'T get a basic J-snorkel; I wouldn't recommend one of those for anybody, especially a new snorkeler. Semi-dry is really the way to go...

Allow me to expand on my basic J-snorkel recommendation. In here you have 2 considerations that often compete against each other:

1. Ease of breathing
2. Keeping it "dry".

Of course there is some familiarisation period in the beginning and if you are not able to develop the skills necessary to clear a snorkel, well, your ease of breathing will simply not be there. But after get over that small learning curve, all other extraneous features aimed at keeping it dry -- diverters, purge valves, dry valves at the top -- are also going to increase your work of breathing. And to be honest, it will seldom be perfectly dry. Semi-dry just sounds so much like semi-pregnant.

It is a simple concept. It is a proven concept. It's worked fine since the beginning of time. I do believe this is a case where the most parsimonious model is the best model. So called "improvements" only weaken performance.

From http://uwrugby.wordpress.com/uwr equipment/

Snorkel

Most scuba diving and snorkelling snorkels have a valve at the bottom for purging out water (purge-valve snorkel). However, this increases breathing resistance. An underwater rugby snorkel should ideally just be a rubber or sillicone J-type snorkel.

J-type snorkel has no purge valve at its base and usually has a wider bore to allow easier breathing.It has a simple tube construction and is more durable than a purge-valve snorkel. Some examples of J-type snorkels are Cressi Corsica, Cressi America, Jumbo II snorkel, etc.

Of course you'll not be going out and using your new snorkel in the physically strenuous underwater rugby, but the principles still apply and the truth still remains that properly used, a basic J-tube will be easier to breath through.

Obviously this is just a recommendation and everybody is free to do whatever they choose. I will not lose any sleep over it nor will I think any less of whoever uses snorkels with purge valves. Just remember that in the efforts to provide "improvements" which are really just marketing fluff good designs can often be weakened.

If you're adamant on going dry with the latest in snorkelling "technology" you may want to take a look at this "ultimate dry top" option. The snorkel comes with a helmet, mask attachments (mask not included), light and camera mounts, and promises "technical innovations that will usher in a whole new era of snorkel design, setting the standard for decades to come. " :

Doesn't it sound like something you would find at Rusty Berry's ?

 

[cmburch]

Pacific Ocean or any ocean for that matter. Wind and waves. Small amount of saltwater gets in snorkel. Unable to blast out residual water. Sloshes back and forth and makes noise with each breath. All snorkels, from simple J-tube, semi-dry, and dry have this problem. One possible solution is to have a diverter to keep saltwater away from mouth and an easier way to drain saltwater such as a bottom purge.

Snorkel design for fresh air non-restrictive breathing is more related to length of snorkel tube and bore size not diverters or purges. Dry snorkels that close off obviously there may be some restriction. Diverters that decrease bore size obvious restriction. There is no restriction on the AL Impulse 3. The bore size of the TUSA may restrict if working out in the ocean, but not for normal snorkeling. The AL Impulse 3 may be the easiest breathing snorkel on the market. The non-flex AL 3 may have a shorter tube length and oscillate less when moving fast. Buddy, my Chesapeake has the red non-flex AL3 and an old TUSA purge mask on his head.

Make light of how a snorkel group is classified to denigrate or prove a point?

Some beginners have problems with tasting or swallowing saltwater. A simple J-tube may not be the best for some.

 

[Slamfire]

Snorkel design for fresh air non-restrictive breathing is more related to length of snorkel tube and bore size not diverters or purges. Dry snorkels that close off obviously there may be some restriction. Diverters that decrease bore size obvious restriction.

Yes, length and diameter do play a major role. Diverters and purges also play a role. How much more or less? Don't know and frankly, I don't think it's something relevant enough to warrant the effort to find out. It's a simple snorkel. It'll work either way.

There is no restriction on the AL Impulse 3. The bore size of the TUSA may restrict if working out in the ocean, but not for normal snorkeling. The AL Impulse 3 may be the easiest breathing snorkel on the market. The non-flex AL 3 may have a shorter tube length and oscillate less when moving fast. Buddy, my Chesapeake has the red non-flex AL3 and an old TUSA purge mask on his head.

I can't really comment on the Impulse. I may have used it at one time or another, but I have not owned one ever, as far as I can recall.

Make light of how a snorkel group is classified to denigrate or prove a point?

My writing tone in this forum tends to be light-hearted. It is not my intention to denigrate anybody and I apologise if my tone conveyed denigration. It is perfectly viable to fully enjoy snorkelling with or without purge valves and diverters. My personal preference is for simple J-tubes.

Some beginners have problems with tasting or swallowing saltwater. A simple J-tube may not be the best for some.

Very true. Getting water in your mouth is a very real risk whenever you get close to the ocean. Nonetheless, most people in this forum will agree that the risk is well worth it. Be it snorkelling, scuba diving, swimming or boating, playing in the water is very fun and well worth the effort to get over the discomfort that may entail having to swallow salt water. My recommendation to anybody new to these sports is to be patient and try to tolerate the initial discomfort. If you keep at it you'll find out that pretty soon you won't mind it. The rewards are well worth the effort.

 

[diver_doug]

Doesn't it sound like something you would find at Rusty Berry's ?

It's the rebreather of snorkels! Sounds/looks like the ONLY snorkel he would sell; and he'd make you feel like an idiot if you had any gripes about it.

customer: "isn't this a bit much...I mean it seems pretty goofy and expensive?"
Rusty: "You wanna be cheap and look cool, or you wanna be alive? Look, buy it and if you don't like it you have 2 days to bring it back. Just don't use it or leave the store and I'll be happy to refund your money. Maybe."

 

[Slamfire]

Just so that everybody is clear and does not go on assuming I invented/photoshoped this thing to denigrate, this thing is a real product with a real website. I quoted their claim about revolutionizing snorkel technology directly from their website -- their words, not mine.

I don't plan to pick a fight or hurt anybody's feelings over a snorkel. It's just a snorkel for crying out loud.