Hi... I ran into a guy that needs to sell his four tanks and is willing to let them go all for $60 (total price). My husband and I are supposed to be meeting with him tomorrow to inspect the tanks. I need some advise in what to look for. They are used. What specs should they pass for me to buy them? What should they be made of, how old, what should I look for?? I am pretty clueless since we have been renting tanks for every dive... so any advise will help big time. Thanks in advance.
Need advise on used tanks
- Thread starter HIdiver
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PhotoTJ
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Check the hydro dates, and the vis dates.
Aluminum or steel, both are are fine, simple way to check, take a magnet. (Grab one off the fridge.)
A new Aluminum will set you back right at $100.00, a steel, twice that. Even if three out of four tanks are bad, and the forth requires hydro, you still would be paying $80 for a tank. Not optimum, but still less that you would pay for that same tank, new.
If you know another diver with more experiance, take him along.
Even if they have current vis stickers, have them re-visually inspected before you have them filled.
Aluminum or steel, both are are fine, simple way to check, take a magnet. (Grab one off the fridge.)
A new Aluminum will set you back right at $100.00, a steel, twice that. Even if three out of four tanks are bad, and the forth requires hydro, you still would be paying $80 for a tank. Not optimum, but still less that you would pay for that same tank, new.
If you know another diver with more experiance, take him along.
Even if they have current vis stickers, have them re-visually inspected before you have them filled.
Add to that, the scrap value of an AL-80 is in the $20-25 buck range, no matter what the condition of them is.
You don't say if they are steel or AL. New AL with new valves and no worries $99.00 or so at your LDS when on sale.
There are potential problems with older AL tanks make from 6351-6T alloy. This site has one persons experience http://www.scubabomb.freeservers.com/
Note Catalina never used the Alloy.
Here is "The List" of scuba tanks that the DOT says are most likely made from the 6351-T6 aluminum alloy which I personally would not buy for any price:
All DOT-3AL tanks manufactured under one of the following exemptions or special permits: 6498, 7042, 8107, 8364, 8422
All composite cylinders manufactured under one of the following exemptions: 7235, 8023, 8115
All Walter Kidde DOT-3AL scuba tanks.
All Cliff Impact DOT-3AL scuba tanks made before July 1990.
All Luxfer 80.8 cu. ft. scuba tanks (S80.8) made before May 1987.
All Luxfer 72 and 100 cu. ft. scuba tanks (S72, S100) made before August 1987.
All Luxfer 80 cu. ft. scuba tanks (S80) made before January 1988.
All Luxfer 50 and 92 cu. ft. scuba tanks (S50, S92) made before April 1988.
All Luxfer 30 and 63 cu. ft scuba tanks (S30, S63) made before May 1988.
All Luxfer 40 cu. ft. scuba tanks (S40) made before June 1988.
All other scuba tanks made in the US before February 1990 (except Catalina).
All scuba tanks not made in the US.
Unless proven otherwise, all scuba tanks in the above list should be assumed as being made using the 6351-T6 alloy.
In anycase, have the tanks you buy inspected by a pro before you dive along with any other gear you may buy used. Remember, you are buying Life Support Equipment. Equipment is cheap, funerals are expensive so spend accordingly.
With both steel or AL tanks, improper filling, Hot fills and over filling will shorten the life of the tank. Use on dive boats where the fills are often on the "wet" side inroducing humid air into the tank may lead to corrosion inside the tank.
Dive safely and often
Thanks for the info. I am not sure what the tanks are made of. The man that has them didn't offer much info, thats why I came here. I already have all of my other equipment (that was bought new). However, tanks are VERY spendy here in Hawaii (about double what you would pay elsewhere). I was planning on getting them checked out at the LDS if I do buy them. The only thing the guy told me is that the last time they were serviced was about 5 years ago. I don't even know how to tell what they are made of or how old they are (does it say right on them?) or what kind of material is better to buy. Like I said, I am pretty in the dark about tanks, and since this was a last minute find I came to the only place I knew was open 24 hours for info. Thanks again for your advice.
Steel tanks will have the code 3 AA, aluminum tanks will have the code 3 AL. Older aluminum tanks will not have the 3 AL, but SP 6498.
FredT
Guest
The salvage value of the valves is greater than the toal price.
If luxfer aluminum the manufacture date should be after 8/87 if yo intend to use them for divin, but even if you just salvage the valves and kick them back to luxfer for the $50 rebate it's a good deal.
Of course if they are steel tanks in decent shape made after about '68 it's a lot better deal.
FT
If luxfer aluminum the manufacture date should be after 8/87 if yo intend to use them for divin, but even if you just salvage the valves and kick them back to luxfer for the $50 rebate it's a good deal.
Of course if they are steel tanks in decent shape made after about '68 it's a lot better deal.
FT
Older steel tanks, made prior to the late 60's, will have "ICC" marked on them instead of "DOT". There is no difference in tanks, just a change in the initials representing the Interstate Commerce Commision to the Dept Of Transportation. However, tanks from the 50's will have 1/2" rather than 3/4" valves and the valve is very hard to replace if they go bad.
FredT
Guest
I agree about the stamp. It's just that after the switch from 1/2"NGT valves many manufacturers "experimented" with internal coatings. Most had given up that foolishness by about '68.
Uncoated steel tanks of any vintage in good shape have many uses. 1/2"NGT tanks make great emergency O2 bottles! 3/4"NPSM tanks are good for scuba only as "alternate" valves are not generally available for them.
Coated tanks just add another variable. Some coatings come out easily, others simply do NOT come out, but do chip and blister.
FT
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