My fellow "rigger-uppers"!

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Diver0001:
Ooohhh sweet. Got a picture of that?

R..

No but I will attempt to describe what I did. Meanwhile I'll see if I can take a picture and post it sometime in the future.

1) you are going to have to disassemble the reel and you'll need to be willing/able to drill through the SS of the frame

2) Holding the reel as though you were using it to deploy line, note where the FRONT, LEFT rim of the spool is in relationship to the SIDE of the frame.

3) Select a stainless steel (or nylon) bolt with a 'thick' enough head that if you were able to pass the bolt-shaft through the reel-frame, the head would almost completely fill the gap between the spool and frame. The bolt shaft should be long enough that it will pass through the frame with enough sticking through the frame to thread a nut onto the the shaft and lock it down. But don't choose one that is excessively long.

4) Drill an appropriately sized (diameter of bolt-shaft) hole through the frame exactly where the spool rim is located. Push the bolt through the hole until the head is flush against the frame, then install (with locktite?) the nut on the other side so the bolt is held in place.

5) reassemble the reel.

If the bolt-head is the correct thickness it will prevent line from slipping between the frame and FRONT LEFT EDGE of the spool yet offer no resistance to the spool.

OMS new reels actually have a 'cover' on the spool that does essentially what I did by myself. Mine does not look as spiffy but it works.

Finally, my mod prevents line from jumping ONLY the front edge and snugging against the spindle. If you 'rats nest' the line or allow to much loose line it can still float up between the spool and frame. To prevent that type of jam you'll need to install something like the new OMS reels use.
 
willydiver:
Any suggestions on a waterproof momentary switch source?
WD

Nothing that comes completely water proof but I used a high end switch, and a rubber switch boot available at most marine stores, to cover the switch. I then added a gaurd around the switch and put a bit of RTV sealent around the base of the boot inside the gaurd to make sure it was sealed. So far it's worked great. I've had my light down to 130 feet and not a drop of water inside the canister.

Checkout the instructions on building the canister light in the documents section for a web site where you can get the good switches.

If you have any pictures of your projects and want to post a few of them on the site I'd like to see them, especially the DPV.
 
Diver0001:
Great. Good description. Thanks.

R..

I'm glad it was understandable.

FYI .. unless you are reasonably sure you'll never drop or bang the reel,
I'd use a metal bolt/nut combination. Nylon is easy to work with but it's
breakable.
 
Here's my enclosed reel.
I wanted a tangle free, version .
I got tired of loaning out my reel to students, and getting it back in knots

Regards

Mike D
 
On the surface the idea looks absolutely brilliant. Of course it would need to be totally jam proof because there's not getting it unjammed in that thing......

R..
 
If you haven't checked out PadiPro's MSN group on DIY lights, you should. He's got some high quality DIY projects going on there with some great parts sources:
http://groups.msn.com/Divelight

On the main ScubaBoard.com DIY page, I've got a thread going on links to material sources and quality projects. My sources for materials have doubled since finding this site. Thanks.

WD
 
Thanks for the compliment.
It's been in use for 3 years and so far it's come back tangle free every time. I do know how ever every time you try to make something idiot proof, there's always a smarter or dumber idiot to be found. Changing the end retaining nut( which in now a nylock), to a wing nut would allow one to disassemble it underwater.

Mike D



Diver0001:
On the surface the idea looks absolutely brilliant. Of course it would need to be totally jam proof because there's not getting it unjammed in that thing......

R..
 
Hey, MD,
Take the nylock off, go to a compression washer and wing nut and you'll be able to change the tension on the spool.

I think I'd put the nylock on after the wing nut to keep it from backing all the way off.
 
Hey Kracken, great minds think alike and foools .......
That's just what I was considering, however todate it has not been a problem

MikeD
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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