Moisture getting into the tank - Just wondering!

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I just don't see how you could keep ambient moisture out of the tank between the drying of the tank & putting the valve on.
how do you guys do that.

Dry the tank upside down on the drying rack. When the cylinder is completely dry and at 150 or so degrees (200 for steel), inert the inside of the cylinder with the residual helium left over from boosting trimix. Dry nitrogen will work too, but it will fall out before you get the valve on. Remove the cylinder from the drying stand and, while still upside down, screw the valve in. Once the valve is hand tight, upend the cylinder and torque the valve. Make sure the valve is shut, and when you get it to a fill station, fill with clean, dry oxygen compatible air.
 
I take my tanks directly to a hydro shop conveniently near my office. This hydro shop does provide a multipurpose VIP sticker that they do seem to use with scuba and other non-scuba cylinders (eg. fire extinguishers). The first time I used them they overtorqued the valve in. Since then I take my tanks with plastic threaded plugs and no valves.

By the time I go to pick them up, the hydro shop supposedly did a visual, but I also do a visual myself at their site and then look in once again before I put in the valve and transfill in some pressurized gas in my garage. I only put in a couple hundred psi to make sure my self serviced tank valve is not leaking and to keep the inside of the tank clean. Then I'll go to a LDS to fill them up. I've never had a problem from anybody and I personally know how the insides of my tanks really are without having to rely on an underpaid, unmotivated LDS employee.

I've never done the upside down helium drying procedure described by Wookie. I just never seen much of a need to do so.
 
I just had a chat with the owner of my LDS about this issue. He refuses to fill any tank that has no pressure and no certification of VIP. No excuses. He has had several instances in which the CLAIM has been that the tank just came from hydro/VIP, but it turned out that they had water in them. One had over a cup of water meaning that the user might have been badly hurt or even drowned if that much water had been inhaled during a dive.
 
I just had a chat with the owner of my LDS about this issue. He refuses to fill any tank that has no pressure and no certification of VIP. No excuses. He has had several instances in which the CLAIM has been that the tank just came from hydro/VIP, but it turned out that they had water in them. One had over a cup of water meaning that the user might have been badly hurt or even drowned if that much water had been inhaled during a dive.


these people know me because I brought a lot of tanks to them for Hydro... They also know that I was just certified to do VIP in their classroom, by the same guy that certifies all their staff (PSI) and the tank had a fresh Hydro & VIP of that day...
He could of just opened the tank to take a peek & satisfy himself at no charge... I would do that. Its not a big deal... how did Over a cup of water get into the tank after a hydro... that's what I'd like to know....
 
I just don't see how you could keep ambient moisture out of the tank between the drying of the tank & putting the valve on.
how do you guys do that.

We plug the cylinders immediately after drying, then we purge them before valving.

Dale
 
We plug the cylinders immediately after drying, then we purge them before valving.

Dale

Ok, so let me get this straight... You take the cylinder off of the drying rack... obviously its got ambient air in it.... so you plug it with the valve I guess.... Now how do you purge it??? Just curious...what's the relative humidity in your area?
 
I want to thank everyone for their input... The power of communication & sharing ideas is just the greatest thing :)

Please keep sharing with me... thanks again!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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