Mass confusion about computers????

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GCarter Do you know how the Oceanic VEO2.0 compares to the Oceanic GEO 2.0 ?

I ned to purchase 2 computers, rec diver, I am not a fan of the deep stop algorithm however it states that the deep stop option can be turned off
Big difference is puck style versus watch style. Beyond that I don't know, but would expect little functional difference.

Edit: scubadada has the goods
 
That's what I am doing too. I pretty much just bought the DC that had the best sale at the time (Mares).
 
Eric-
"I’m just now retiring my bottom timer." If that is an old Princeton "pocket watch", please don't retire it. I would hate to be the last one using one. Even though I keep it greased with the very best of butter, I confess I do let a Casio run at the same time.

But it is SO disconcerting to see all this life support equipment disagrees so radically on what is and isn't safe bottom time. I know the science keeps changing, the Navy tables got "shorter" and then PADI finally followed suit (both decades after the industry refused to believe the standard USN tables were NOT suitable in wetsuit water, that's what cold water tables are for and the new ones come closer to that) and then the change from 1.6 to 1.4, and the research in microbubbles, and now a question that microbubbles are an effect of an underlying problem, not the real cause of DCS...

Still, when every computer maker says "trade secrets, but WE'RE THE BEST" and they all point fingers like an old "he went that a way" Three Stooges movie...

Yeah, I'm not ready to give up my tables yet. If the computer says "Dive" and the tables say "No" I'm sticking to the tables. Seeing the comparative numbers here is both enlightening and semi frightening.
 
Thanks

After everything IO have read I want to purchase the shearwater perdix AI however I have to buy two of everything and I dont want my fist computer purchase to be 2200 so I am looking for moderate algorithm and I would like to purchase a good first computer and then purchase shearwater later on down the road
I was in the same situation and my wife convinced me to spend the money and cry once. I will never forget the wisdom of that guidance.
 
Eric-
"I’m just now retiring my bottom timer." If that is an old Princeton "pocket watch", please don't retire it. I would hate to be the last one using one. Even though I keep it greased with the very best of butter, I confess I do let a Casio run at the same time.

But it is SO disconcerting to see all this life support equipment disagrees so radically on what is and isn't safe bottom time. I know the science keeps changing, the Navy tables got "shorter" and then PADI finally followed suit (both decades after the industry refused to believe the standard USN tables were NOT suitable in wetsuit water, that's what cold water tables are for and the new ones come closer to that) and then the change from 1.6 to 1.4, and the research in microbubbles, and now a question that microbubbles are an effect of an underlying problem, not the real cause of DCS...

Still, when every computer maker says "trade secrets, but WE'RE THE BEST" and they all point fingers like an old "he went that a way" Three Stooges movie...

Yeah, I'm not ready to give up my tables yet. If the computer says "Dive" and the tables say "No" I'm sticking to the tables. Seeing the comparative numbers here is both enlightening and semi frightening.
I have two of those old Princeton tectonics wind up bottom timers.
The one I was refering to, and is newer, is my Uwatec BT from 2000 and it STILL WORKS!!! Never had the batteries changed!! I don’t get it. Computers these days run a year max and die - need new batteries. The Uwatec is 18 years old and still runs??? (scratching head).
I should look into getting the battery changed. It’s an oil filled unit and AFAIK the battery is a factory replaced item, might even be a soldered in thing, I don’t know?
 
the bottom timers have volatile memory, so you need to change the battery before the old one gives out. theoretically possible to do a battery replacement by soldering in a new one in parallel then taking out the old one, but combine this with resealing the casing and there really aren't any shops willing to bother.
 
the bottom timers have volatile memory, so you need to change the battery before the old one gives out. theoretically possible to do a battery replacement by soldering in a new one in parallel then taking out the old one, but combine this with resealing the casing and there really aren't any shops willing to bother.
So in other words it’s a “throw away”? That’s a shame that an eventual and inevitable dead battery sends a unit to the land fill.
I refuse to accept that.
 
Eric, how much are you prepared to pay to back those fighting words up? Is it really worth it?
 
Need help!!! My scubapro meridian doesn't work after battery replacement. This is first replacement. I have make only 8 dives with this computer.
 
Need help!!! My scubapro meridian doesn't work after battery replacement. This is first replacement. I have make only 8 dives with this computer.

If you did it yourself, open it back up and check the installation, if you had it done in a shop take it back have them sort it out.

FWIW, I once replaced a dead battery with it's self, and threw out the new one.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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