Making a leak free pvc storage canister to attach to my back plate

[UnderSeaBumbleBee]

I am thinking about putting a slip cap on the end so that both ends look uniform. A hand fitting of the cap in dry conditions proved that it would likely be very hard to get off in wet cold conditions. So I might not put it on. I am going to test it as is for the moment. I will stain the final product with purple plumber over the full surface of the canister.

I used key rings and hose clamps along with a couple of quick links I had on hand in the shop. I will replace with 1" stainless d rings the next time I place an order from Scuba Toys. My tests will be done in fresh water so I am not over concerned right now.

I used 2" pvc pipe along with a 2 inch Oatey Mechanical plug like was suggested above. The quick links are spaced so that they clip into the open holes on my bp at the bottom.

 

[DIWdiver]

Very nice!

BTW, Privateer Divers has a little metal bracket designed for attaching D-rings with hose clamps. Much neater than just sticking it under the strap.

 

[spectrum]

McMaster Carr or a good hardware store will have assorted knobs that may be easier to work with than the supplied wing-nut.

Pete

 

[Akimbo]

Bee,
A much simpler solution to your problem can be found at your nearby welding supply store. Buy a welding rod storage tube and be done with it. They are made of heavy plastic, have a screw on cap that is sealed with an O-ring. They are air tight and water tight to keep welding rods (electrodes) dry during storage and they cost less than ten bucks.

An example:

Welding Rod Storage Tube (Rod Holder) - Welding Supplies, Tools & Helmets - Welders & Supplies

Do you have any idea what the crush or working depth might be. Do they look injection or blow-molded? Failing that, do you have a best guess? The price is low enough I could just drop on over the side and see what comes back up.

 

[Hallmac]

The quick links are spaced so that they clip into the open holes on my bp at the bottom.

Looking good.

If you are enjoying the DYI and want to tinker a bit more before you stain it.

Take a second tube the length of gap your back plate holes are. Slice it length wise twice so that you have a piece that resembles a C if you look at the end. place a hole 3/8th of an inch from each end and thread your key rings through. You can then snap and glue the outer shell to the main tube and do away with the band clamps.

or

slice a 1/2 piece off the end of any left over tube you have. then cut it into quarters. glue a couple of quarters to the tube where you want attachment points. If you really want to get slick, get some water boiling, and drop the strips into the water for two minutes. fish them out and form them however you want before gluing them down.

Nice to see you having fun.

 

[Paladin]

Do you have any idea what the crush or working depth might be. Do they look injection or blow-molded? Failing that, do you have a best guess? The price is low enough I could just drop on over the side and see what comes back up.

The ones I have were made by Century and are made of plastic that is 3/16" or so thick. I keep welding rods in mine and I've never used one in the manner that Bee is talking about, but I believe you could take one pretty deep. I would think they could go to 130 ft. without crushing. Mine have the marks of being injection molded.

If it wasn't already so cold here, I'd take one out and see what it could do. But no more than they cost, you could go to a welding supply store, get one that looks nice and tough and do some experiments.

I had a friend who used to have a few that he kept survival gear in for his boat when sailing off shore.

 

[Cave Diver]

Nice. And I know it's just the over zealous DIR part of me, but I gotta cringe at the metal to metal connections and the boat clips.

You might at least give some thought to replacing the split rings with some cave line, so that if the need ever arises you can easily cut that loose from the fasteners.

 

[Akimbo]

The ones I have were made by Century and are made of plastic that is 3/16" or so thick. ...

Will do. It is big enough you would not want to take it down yourself in case it implodes. I don't know when I can do it either, but will report back if I am able to test one. The likelihood that it is injection molded rather than blow molded is encouraging. I have been looking for something for a VHF radio with GPS alert and this sounds like it might do it. Thanks

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Nice. And I know it's just the over zealous DIR part of me, but I gotta cringe at the metal to metal connections and the boat clips.

You might at least give some thought to replacing the split rings with some cave line, so that if the need ever arises you can easily cut that loose from the fasteners.

I couldn't agree more. Metal to metal connections AND the wrong kind of clips..

 

[UnderSeaBumbleBee]

Nice. And I know it's just the over zealous DIR part of me, but I gotta cringe at the metal to metal connections and the boat clips.

You might at least give some thought to replacing the split rings with some cave line, so that if the need ever arises you can easily cut that loose from the fasteners.

Explain a bit more about what you mean. I removed all the hardware when I stained it last night. I am not overly happy with the config I had, but it was my best thought at the time. I have cave line on hand.

The hardware just happened to be what I already had on hand without purchasing anything. So if it goes back into the little bins it used to live in until another project comes along, I am cool with that.