Making a leak free pvc storage canister to attach to my back plate

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Explain a bit more about what you mean. I removed all the hardware when I stained it last night. I am not overly happy with the config I had, but it was my best thought at the time. I have cave line on hand.

The picture you showed has a metal hose clamp around the tube. A metal split ring (like a key ring) appears to connect the boat snap to the hose clamp. In the event something happened and you snagged your canister on something, whether it was fishing line, kelp, or just hung on the boat doing a backroll in, you can't cut it loose. You HAVE to manipulate the snap to undo it. If it was under tension, that may not be possible to get the snap in the right spot to release it.

Changing that connection between the snap and the clip to a zip tie, or small diameter line, would allow you or your buddy to cut the canister free in the event it ever became necessary.

The second issue is the type of clip. The spring loaded gate on those type of clips makes it easy for them to get caught on stuff. I would suggest a regular boltsnap instead.

Of course if you do nothing but clear warm tropical diving, it may not be a big issue. But if you dive in water that may have hazards, whether fishing line or plants it is something to consider.
 
Metal to metal connections do not allow a last ditch option in extreme situations of entrapment.

By using line to make one portion of your connection you have the option of cutting it away and escaping in the event something works it's way into and around your canister.

The Snap gates of your hardware have a desire to allow line, netting, wiring, and natural growth to enter the buckle and create a snag. It is like string wanting to tie itself in knots; give it a chance and it will happen. They are never recommended for attaching anything in scuba for that reason.

Your idea for this cannister is to offer yourself a chance to solve a problem in the unlikely event it happens. C D is trying to help you prevent or cause a more common problem while you solve a less common one.
 
Ok, you make some really good points. Let me see if I am following you. I have made a mock up below. I used regular string since I am going to have to remove it when I get the correct size snaps. I will use cave line on the final product. I am aware that the snaps I have used are too large. They just happened to be what was in my dive box and I thought they would serve for illustrative purposes to make sure I am understanding you guys.


Take bolt snap and zip tie--attach the two together using cave line as described here:
How to Attach a Snap - Dive Gear Express

Attach zip tie to canister

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Thoughts?
 
Ok, you make some really good points. Let me see if I am following you. I have made a mock up below. I used regular string since I am going to have to remove it when I get the correct size snaps. I will use cave line on the final product. I am aware that the snaps I have used are too large. They just happened to be what was in my dive box and I thought they would serve for illustrative purposes to make sure I am understanding you guys.


Thoughts?


Not quite...

I would use either string OR zip ties between the hose clamp and the bolt snap. Preferably string, looped a couple of times then tied. All you need to replace is the split ring in the middle.

If you prefer to use zip ties in place of the hose clamp, I would just put the zip tie directly through the eye of the bolt snap. Don't bother tying it on.
 
I couldn't agree more. Metal to metal connections AND the wrong kind of clips..:shakehead::shakehead:

You still love me though don't you Dumpster? As my Uncle once said, "The only people who make mistakes are the ones who try to do something!"

I am going to widen the inside of an end cap for the end it the mechanical plug as I am not fond of that wing nut being exposed. The cap is just a little too tight at the moment to get on and off when it has been put on my hand rather than having been pushed full on by water pressure.

Or I could find a knob or some solid stock and cut a slit on the backside to accommodate the wing nut and drill a hole to account for the up and down action of the bolt. And then permanently attach the knob to the wing nut.
 
Will do. It is big enough you would not want to take it down yourself in case it implodes. I don't know when I can do it either, but will report back if I am able to test one. The likelihood that it is injection molded rather than blow molded is encouraging. I have been looking for something for a VHF radio with GPS alert and this sounds like it might do it. Thanks

If you can, try to find one of this brand:

Rod Guard - Welding Rod Storage Cannisters | Welding Rod Supplies | Welding Accessories

I have two of these (in addition to the Centurys) and they are very well made.

Your idea of using one for a watertight radio case is the same thing my friend used them for on his boat. He used them for a VHF hand held marine band 2-way radio, a hand held aviation band 2-way and a hand held GPS unit. They were never used for SCUBA, but it should be worth the experiment.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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