Low, mid, or high range regulator?

[Lorenzoid]

You know filmguy123, based on all your threads, you really don't know anything about your diving requirements. I'm sure you can learn quite a bit online from SB, but nothing beats personal experience, something you can't get here. I would suggest to go out diving and get some experience, maybe then you would be able to ask more informed and focused questions. I welcome your enthusiasm, keep it up

Good diving, Craig

Ouch.

As I see it, @filmguy could learn a lot and thereby "be able to ask more informed and focused questions" more by reading past SB threads than by going out diving (for one thing, @filmguy isn't even done with his OW course yet), since questions about choosing "quality" regulators and BCs with longer-term goals in mind have been very common over the years. I don't see anything in the original question here or his "talk me out of a BP/W" thread that has not been discussed extensively before. I try not to be that guy whose knee-jerk reaction to a new post with a common question is simply "do a search of old threads"--there's no reason why common questions can't be revived and discussed anew, perhaps by new participants--but there is definitely a treasure trove of information in past threads on these topics.

 

[tbone1004]

I thought it was HQ'd in the Macon, GA Divers Supply. The Marietta, GA Divers Supply is in a small strip mall storefront. Macon's is larger and in their own building if I recall. You''d be surprised how poorly trained the Marietta store's staff is on HOG gear. For example, the employee I spoke with at the time I had my regs serviced insisted there was no such thing as a coldwater/sealed conversion kit. I mentioned this in a thread somewhere not long ago, and it may very well have been you who quickly provided a link to prove such a kit exists. All the more reason to learn to service them myself. If the employees of HOG's major dealer don't know the product line, I have no great faith in their tech. And as I said, I have my suspicions that the Marietta store doesn't always even have a tech on hand. On the bright side--and the reason I suppose I keep going back--is they have a pool that, if not booked for a class, they will let anyone use for free and will even supply a tank for free.

you're right, I had my M towns in Georgia confused....

 

[filmguy123]

Lorenzoid covered this pretty well Scubadad. I would love to dive! Seeing as how I've got a month until I have a c-card and just had my first OW course last night, I am currently in research mode. There's a lot to soak in, and I want to get straight into diving when I can, not be researching and asking all of these sorts of questions when I have a c-card and should be out in the water.

I do feel like even without all the requisite experience to ask some of these questions in a more fully informed state, what I have learned already has made me HUGELY more aware of my needs, desires, and what to look for. As well as what to look out for. I am very thankful to that and all the members here posting and helping. So please, keep it up!!

As for the old threads, you may be surprised to hear that I have actually read a lot of them and continue to. But to me, the special thing about a forum is that it is interactive. I have a stack of books here and old threads. They are fantastic. But sitting in a forum and having people specifically talk and respond to your questions is a whole different ballpark. That's why a forum exists! I can tell you right now, most forums would be a pretty boring place if we only asked brand new questions and discussed things never before mentioned or covered. I agree, I don't want to beat a dead horse, but I can also say that there are new members posting than there were in old threads, which gives new perspectives. There are members who previously posted and are years wiser and with different opinions (for example, T bone was but a padawan only some 7-8 years ago.. yeah... I've read my old threads!!). And there are brand new questions that come up within the scope of the larger question that were never before addressed. I can tell you, there's plenty in that BP/W thread I started that I think has only added to the scubaboard treasure trove of knowledge, because there are in fact specifics and perspectives that are laid out in a way I hadn't read in the archives. I've found it helpful. Before even posting this thread, I had already read a number of old threads on regs, including one where Tbone very strongly advocated this exact same DiveRite setup - so I was familiar. But this thread is packed with new information and questions, discussions, and friendly arguments that never surfaced in that old one! As well as the most up to date models and info - small things like "HOG used to be strongly recommended as the obvious pick, but with the price going up, that's changed". If I had stuck to old threads only, I'd quickly miss recent information like this.

Anyway, don't want to get off topic on THAT as I have plenty more curiosity left in me regarding the current thread topic at hand

 

[stuartv]

Sorry if this is a repeat.

As long these are still available at $200, I don't think they can be beat.

DC3-212 DIN - Dive Right in Scuba

Buy two sets and combine them into 1 set with primary and octo and have a spare 1st stage reg. Or buy one set and find an octo to buy for $100 or less. Then buy an SPG with hose, either from DRiS (great guys) at the same time, or get one from DGX. You can easily have a complete reg set w/SPG, brand new, for under $500.

I've had a set of these Hollis regs (with a pair of 212s for primary and octo) for about a year and a half. They have been great. Sealed diaphragm 1st stage. Pneumatically balanced 2nd stage with adjustable venturi and adjustable breathing effort. I have used them numerous times in our local quarry (38F on the bottom, year round).

I also have a set of Dive Rite XT regs that I bought for use with doubles. I've had them for almost a year. For ME, they are both equal. They have the same features* and they all breathe equally easily. But, the price on the Hollis makes them the ones to buy, in my opinion.

* the DR XT1 has one feature that the Hollis 1st stage does not. The XT has a swivel turret with a LP port on the bottom. That makes them better for hose routing on a set of doubles. The Hollis DC3 has no swivel and no LP port on the bottom. They still can work fine for doubles, just with hose routing that is not quite as neat.

 

[stuartv]

As such, it seems Yoke is what I'd be using most of the time...?
To clarify, would GUE Fundies likely have any problem with a Yoke reg with a DIN adaptor on it?

I have only owned DIN regs. In Mexico and Hawaii, I had very little trouble getting tanks with DIN or convertible valves. Convertible means they are DIN and have an insert to turn them into yoke, so you can use either kind of reg with no adapter. A small number of times, I have had to use my DIN-to-Yoke adapter ($20 from DGX). When I have done so, there has been no downside to me. Some people say the adapter puts the 1st stage closer to the back of their head and they hit their head on it, where they don't when the adapter is not there. Personally, I haven't had that issue, and I'm unclear on how anyone would. When the tank is positioned normally, the valve and reg are behind your neck, not your head. So, if the reg were taller, you could hit your head. But, being closer to your neck, I don't see how it makes it more likely to hit your head on it.

Anyway.... there is no such thing as a yoke reg with an adapter (on the reg) to fit on a DIN valve. At least, not that I know of. I think, if it's a 300 bar DIN valve, you can't even get an insert for it to fit a yoke reg. The "convertible" or "pro" valves that have the insert are 232 bar valves, I think. IOW, a yoke reg can only be used on a yoke valve. A DIN reg can be used on either, with an adapter. That is why I bought DIN regs and a $20 adapter.

 

[stuartv]

if you do more than 20 local dives a year, it may be worth it to buy your own tanks. you'll spend 10 to 20 dollars every time you dive for the tank rental depending if you rent one or 2 tanks. visual and hydro cost per year is 30 bucks or less. if you get used steel tanks, you really don't lose money because the tank has already depreciated and the remaining value is pretty stable.

the convenience is also a big deal. you don't have to arrive super early to the shop to try and get a hp100 or else get stuck with an al80.

At the shops I go to, the difference in cost of renting a tank versus getting a fill in my own tank usually runs about $5. In other words, it only costs about $5 extra per dive to rent a tank. I own my own tanks, but it's not to save money....

And the shops that I go to regularly would have no issue with reserving me the tanks that I want. And let me pick them up the day before. Hopefully, the OP and anyone else can find a convenient shop that will treat them just as well.

 

[runsongas]

even if you were only renting a single tank every other month, you wouldn't lose money compared to having a personal tank and getting a fill card for air.

a semi-active local diver who is renting 2 tanks to dive every month (convenience to not need to hit up the dive shop during SI) or more would be paying 240 dollars on tank rentals versus half that for 2 visuals and 2 fill cards (24 fills).

 

[Bob DBF]

a semi-active local diver who is renting 2 tanks to dive every month (convenience to not need to hit up the dive shop during SI) or more would be paying 240 dollars on tank rentals versus half that for 2 visuals and 2 fill cards (24 fills).

Kind of overlooks other costs like the cost of two tanks and hydros, also longer term costs like cleaning and valve service. In addition, although everyone plans on diving forever, the fact is a lot of folks move on to other things for one reason or another, you need to use a tank a while to make it worthwhile.

If the diver got a good deal on a couple of Al80's in hydro and vis for say $200, it wouldn't be too bad for the convenience. If he wanted steel tanks or new tanks, it would be a lot larger expense, and a longer haul to amortize them.

I would advise a new diver to get a couple of years under their belt, and see if they are diving more or less, before purchasing. As much as many will say dive gear is an investment, it is actually an expense, as your gear will never be worth what you paid for it after you walk out of the dive shop. Tanks are close to an exception, if you get a lot of use out of them and keep them in good shape.


Bob

 

[runsongas]

if you're buying used tanks for cheap though, you can always sell them later on to get most of your money back. hydros only need to be done every 5 years and work out to something like 5 dollars a year per tank. if you get good fills, no need to clean or tumble your tanks really. can always get your tanks shot blasted pretty cheap at the hydro facility too. the valves eventually need servicing, but again usually once every few years where it works out to a few dollars a year.

i agree that buying new tanks can be hard to break even on, but buying used steel tanks in good condition is worth the time.

 

[halocline]

I bought my first tank because I needed one to work on my regs, not because it was cost effective for local diving. I've never bought a new tank. LP72s are often the best deal in used tanks. I don't think I paid more than $40 for any of mine.