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There is a small bar/ restaurant with music sometimes, just south of Money bar and Fiesta Americana. I think its called Barefoot Lounge? Its a quiet place if you dont want the noise like some venues.
Diego plays there on friday nights
 
Perhaps I wasn't clear; I wasn't asking about places to hear music, but rather places to get away from it - especially loud Anglo music - either recorded or live. I would like to find someplace quiet to watch the sunset over the water. If there is any music I would look for it to be low volume Mexican/Caribbean/Reggae. If there is no music at all, that would be fine.
I posted it as a general help for anyone looking for music options

But to answer your question, the few beach bars north of town might suit your needs for no music to watch sunset

La Monina or La Aldea, not Hemmingways

I also like the rooftop at Aqui and Ahora at sunset
 
I really wish that there was less gringo music and more Mexican and reggae music being played in the clubs on Cozumel. If I wanted to feel at home I'd have stayed home.
Just go to the places the locals hang out
 
It's been a long time and things may have changed, but Tikila and Ernesto's weren't playing 'murican music the last times I was there.

Been to Tikila many times with friends during sunset, Ernesto's too for that matter. The only problem with both of those places is that they have a "south" wall. Sunset viewing is better at Tikila, though Ernesto's has some tables away from the wall on a sort of deck to the west as I recall.

I don't know the layout of BA, but I'm surprised you can't watch and listen there?

Edit: I don't drink Gin and Tonics, but I'd be surprised if you can't get one at either place.
FYI. Ernesto’s closes well before sunset these days. They usually bring up the ropes to keep out new customers sometime between 3:00 and 4:00
 
FYI. Ernesto’s closes well before sunset these days. They usually bring up the ropes to keep out new customers sometime between 3:00 and 4:00
Wow. Let me guess, they're playing loud classic rock now too.

Too bad. Had many really good and fun suppers there.
 
I, too, would prefer more music from the culture of the country I’m visiting. However, a concierge in Tulum explained it like this. 60+% of Mexican tourism is from the US, so a lot of what they try to do is aimed at that group. Don’t know how true that is, but that’s what he said.
It wouldn't surprise me. The number of passengers cruise ships bring to Cozumel is staggering. They come and go and are not looking to be in Mexico so much as they are just passing through on a huge, English speaking hotel.

My Spanish would be far better if the locals spoke less English, but it is an economic choice for them. And they are patient and amused by my Spanish, which I am grateful for.

As far as music, the same applies. Avoid the more tourist oriented areas and you hear more local music. Unfortunately, it is nearly always on the radio. I have seen a few local musicians playing music I had never heard, so it does happen. It won't happen in clubs or restaurants.
 
Red Eye Band has played there a few times too, Ruben is super cool. We've shared a boat with him too. When he saw us walk into Dicks Dive one night he immediately played SRVs Pride and Joy for us.
 
Wow. Let me guess, they're playing loud classic rock now too.

Too bad. Had many really good and fun suppers there.

We got disappointed several times recently with their hours (never the food)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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