Kinking over hose to stop freeflow?

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OTF

Coney Island Whitefish Biologist
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I'm interested in your thoughts on kinking over a regulator hose to stop a freeflow. It was never mentioned in any of my training but seems like a reasonable option. Is this trained by any agency? Or is it something to be avoided? I've talked to several instructors and knowledgeable divers about it with comments ranging from "it's a good idea" to "it's a bad idea" to "won't work, the hose is designed to keep flowing gas when it's kinked" (although that last one seems entirely false, kinking over definitely stops my hoses).

Pros:
  • Easy, effective, fast way to manage a 1st stage freeflow and completely conserve gas
  • Allows breathing off the reg, you can "feather" it by easing the kink.
  • Able to stop a drysuit or bcd inflator freeflow before fussing with the disconnect
Potential cons:
  • Might not work with all types of hoses. Seems to work with basic rubber hose, but if it doesn't work with fancy hoses I could see this being a reason not to train this as a reliable method.
  • Possible risk of damaging hose? (not a big deal in a real emergency, but maybe not great to practice unnecessarily)
  • If it's a first stage freeflow then this won't work at all - it will just force air out the next easiest outlet which could be a secondary reg, or worse a bcd or drysuit inflator.
  • Occupies a hand, or requires tying something around the kinked hose.
 
I would be very surprised if that can stop free flow.
Try it. Worst could happen is a rupture hose.
 
I doubt that kinking a hose would work.

You can try for yourself by purging your second stage and trying.
 
I've tried it underwater by holding down the purge button and kinking over the hose. Works on my regs and basic rubber hoses. Might not work with fancy hoses.
 
I'm interested in your thoughts on kinking over a regulator hose to stop a freeflow. It was never mentioned in any of my training but seems like a reasonable option. Is this trained by any agency? Or is it something to be avoided? I've talked to several instructors and knowledgeable divers about it with comments ranging from "it's a good idea" to "it's a bad idea" to "won't work, the hose is designed to keep flowing gas when it's kinked" (although that last one seems entirely false, kinking over definitely stops my hoses).

Pros:
  • Easy, effective, fast way to manage a 1st stage freeflow and completely conserve gas
  • Allows breathing off the reg, you can "feather" it by easing the kink.
  • Able to stop a drysuit or bcd inflator freeflow before fussing with the disconnect
Potential cons:
  • Might not work with all types of hoses. Seems to work with basic rubber hose, but if it doesn't work with fancy hoses I could see this being a reason not to train this as a reliable method.
  • Possible risk of damaging hose? (not a big deal in a real emergency, but maybe not great to practice unnecessarily)
  • If it's a first stage freeflow then this won't work at all - it will just force air out the next easiest outlet which could be a secondary reg, or worse a bcd or drysuit inflator.
  • Occupies a hand, or requires tying something around the kinked hose.
I don't believe any agency has it in their course, but my original open water instructor told us to kink the hose. I have tried it and it works. I have posted here a few times recommending to kink the hose in the event of a free flow. Seems elementary logic to me.
 
I guess it depends on what kind of pressure the first-stage regulator is “free flowing” at. The low pressure (LP) hose is rated for 350 psi. May be kinking the LP hose would give a few minutes for you to thumb the dive and get to the surface before blowing out the LP hose if the free flowing pressure is > 350 psi.
 
this is why you should always be able to reach your valve knobs. Reach back and turn the valve off. Then open back on to feather as necessary. SOP in cave diving, not so much anywhere else. Kinking the hose can't be considered reliable, particularly in extremely cold water with thick/squishy gloves and limited dexterity.
 
this is why you should always be able to reach your valve knobs. Reach back and turn the valve off. Then open back on to feather as necessary.

What he said.^ Being able to manipulate your valves is crucial.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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