Jacket BCD to BP/W transition experience

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*Floater*:
You can also use them for a v-weight substitute for doubles; just put two of them on 13" long piece of excess harness, cut holes on it 11" apart, add desired amount of weight and use the same way v-weights are used. (I'll post a pic later. disclaimer: while I did do this I have not had a chance to try it on a twinsets yet, but I believe it should work fine).

Here's a pic as promised (one could also add keepers and grommets):

vweightsubstitute.jpg


As I said above, I'm not sure this will work yet since I don't have a set of doubles at home. I suspect it would depend on your tank bands and plate (flatter plate and wider tank separation from the bands leaves more space for the weights). With my DSS plates and the rental twinsets I've used I think I could fit the weights... it wouldn't work with my independent doubles setup though. Also, you might not even need the weight pockets if your weights can go directly on the webbing like weightbelt weights.
 
OK, my "transition" story is thus:

I had an OLD Sherwood Genesis jacket BC(long since discontinued, I believe) that I had always dove with. I was trying to get trim worked out,trying to drop weight, learn proper bouyancy, improve my air consumption, etc, and was really frustrated. I got ahold of an Oxycheq 45 lb single wing and a FredT plate.

I spent a couple of hours looking at pics on the net, threading the harness and adjusting it, etc. Then I finally got to dive it in a local spring with a really strong upflow that had always been hard to get bouyancy just right in, and fell head over heels in love with it. No tank roll when I shifted side to side or head up/feet up, I got rid of a bunch of weight, and I IMMEDIATELY felt my virility improve by a substantial measure.:D

I suspect that if you have a higher quality jacket BC than I had, particularily one with a plastic backplate in it, that the tank would be much more stable, and the difference would be much less.
 
For What It's Worth:
Until I get the money together for a BP/W (which will come after a drysuit), I've added straps to my Scubapro Classic jacket-style BC - http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=164572

Also, my main dive buddy uses a Scubapro Nighthawk back-inflate BC, and he's pretty happy with it, except for how much of a hassle it is to attach the weight pockets.
 
I have seen a lot of reports in this thread about various levels of improvement (or not) from the BC to BP/W setup, I haven't noticed anyone who reported migrating from a Zeagle BC, although I'm sure there are some.
Is there less of a transition when going from a back-inflation BC?
Thanks.
 
sambolino44:
Also, my main dive buddy uses a Scubapro Nighthawk back-inflate BC, and he's pretty happy with it, except for how much of a hassle it is to attach the weight pockets.

Really?

The Scubapro system is perhaps the best/most simple integrated weight system on the market. Slide in the pocket; snap the clip. That is it. I have never seen the Scubapro system drop a pocket on the surface.

When one compares it to the velcro and snap systems Oceanic uses and the Zeagle Ripcord it seems very hassle free.
 
I think the point of my posts above got lost in some obscure syntax.

For TROPICAL diving (water temp. above 75 degrees, by my arbitrary definition), you don't need to wear exposure protection. That means your weight requirement is probably less than 8 lbs. Since a stainless steel BP weighs 5 - 6 lbs., it will likely take care of your weighting requirement. That means you don't need weights or a weight belt. If your weighting requirement is this modest, you can dispense with the buoyancy compensator (Wing) as well (provided you are not doing long surface swims). So, your entire gear configuration is: mask, fins (full-foot of course), BP (stainless steel), harness, reg set.

It's a wonderful feeling of freedom! I call it the Tropical Minimalist style, and dive it whenever possible. Of course, this will all be totally familiar to old-time divers who dived before BCs were in common use ...
 
I went from a jacket (cressi) to a bp/w (halcyon). Initially my trim was much better, but on other occasions I've used Jacket BCs and I find that my buoyancy and trim are also good. In other words, though I think that in general trim might be better in a bp/w to some extend it is an issue of not just experience, but trying to be really aware of what exactly it is that is affecting your bouyancy characteristics. I use less weight in my bp/w because (I think) there is less inherant buoyancy in that combo than in a jacket with all it's padding and fabric. After I got my bp/w I wore it for a couple of hours one evening while making dinner with my reg draped over my back, and wearing one 5mm glove, to get used to clipping/unclipping the SPG. I felt somewhat stupid, but it worked like a charm. it surely beats having all that stuff dangeling all over the place. So overall my vote goes to the bp/w.
 
elmo6s:
Hey guys,
I'm just about to finish up my DM training and am looking into some local tech/wreck diving (think East Coast). I have about 400 dives under my belt in warm water, and about 20 in our cold water. In the caribean/warm water, I'm going to stick to my Seaquest Balance I have now, but was wondering what a good BP/W setup would be for diving up here. I'm not going to be jumping into tech for a bit, as I feel I need to get some more cold water and drysuit experience first. As I work my experience level up, what would be a good set up? I see a lot of Dive Rite mentioned here, what models should I be looking at specifically for cold water, mostly single tank dives? (I will work my way up to doubles, but I want to do one thing at a time). Thanks for your help.
Alex

Most BP/Wing set ups can be checked out through various manufacturers: Dive Rite, Halcyon, OMS, to name the most popular. I use Dive Rite products with good satisfaction. I have a Transpac for single tank diving and I have a custom BP (aluminum and stainless steel) for my doubles. I use a Dive Rite "Classic" wing for my BP.

You mention cold water diving. If you are going dry suit you will need a heavier BP (Stainless steel) etc. Remember that your dry suit will act as an alternate bouyancy device.

I live in the DC area. I dive many of the wrecks off the NC coast out of Hatteras or Morehead City. I also see divers from the NY area down there. I have dived heavy steel tanks (single) with my Transpac (with a 40cuft. deco bottle). I now use my double pst 104's with a 40cuft deco bottle for many of the wrecks at the 130-160 ft range...plenty of air for a good bottom time and enough to spare for deco etc.

Just my experience.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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