J valve rod

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Paladin

Contributor
Messages
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Location
West Virginia
# of dives
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Where can I get a J-valve rod for my double 72s?
 
I just made one up for my doubles. I didn't have stainless rod at the time, so mine is steel and rusted but it works.


Bob
--------------------------
I may be old, but I'm not dead yet.
 
Yeah. I'll probably have to end up making one myself. It would just be nice to have an original.
 
If you ask over at VDH, I am sure someone will have an extra one they can spare. It wasn't that long ago that someone made some and sold them over there.
 
If you ask over at VDH, I am sure someone will have an extra one they can spare. It wasn't that long ago that someone made some and sold them over there.

Thanks, Luis. I started a thread over there. Now all I can do is wait to see if I get any bites.
 
I am pretty sure that was Roger aka Robohips.
 
The reason very few original J-valve rods survive (at least on the West Coast) is everyone took them off and threw them away is disgust. I even tried making one in my Dad’s shop that had a 60° taper on the finger-pull end. Brazing the end to the long section stopped stuff from getting into the loop, but didn’t prevent accidental pulling. It helped, but didn’t stop it.

By the time Voit came out with their “pull reserve” which might have worked, I had learned how little value they actually had.
$T2eC16VHJGkE9no8h,REBRGtD7rypw~~60_3.jpg

Bob: Reliable Hardware & Steel on Dowd Dr in Santa Rosa had a good selection of 304 stainless rod, the last time I was there anyway. They will cut most things so you don’t have to buy a 20' stick.
 
The reason very few original J-valve rods survive (at least on the West Coast) is everyone took them off and threw them away is disgust. I even tried making one in my Dad’s shop that had a 60° taper on the finger-pull end. Brazing the end to the long section stopped stuff from getting into the loop, but didn’t prevent accidental pulling. It helped, but didn’t stop it.

By the time Voit came out with their “pull reserve” which might have worked, I had learned how little value they actually had.
View attachment 147722

Bob: Reliable Hardware & Steel on Dowd Dr in Santa Rosa had a good selection of 304 stainless rod, the last time I was there anyway. They will cut most things so you don’t have to buy a 20' stick.

That's why I developed the habit of reaching back every so often to tap the bottom of the rod to make sure that it was up. At this time, my shoulders are messed up and I cannot reach behind to turn the reserve knob and a pull rod would be of use to me. I have one on my single steel 72, I just don't want to have to keep swapping it around. I am concerned that it might get lost. I almost lost it a couple of years ago and I don't want to chance it.

---------- Post added February 16th, 2013 at 12:19 PM ----------

I am pretty sure that was Roger aka Robohips.

Thanks, Herman.
 
If strict vintage isn’t your objective and you have to make one, then the one I made did work better. I addition to the 60° angle, I also bent the finger loop 90° to the normal position so it would lie close against the cylinder, further reducing the likelihood of snagging. A vise, hack saw, and a hammer are all you need. You could use tool dip to close the end if you don’t have access to a welder or brazing rig.

I imagine they were more useful on the east coast but the kelp gremlins loved them here.
 
I am with Akimbo, I never used a J rod, I took them off and tossed them. I would activate the lever by reaching back.

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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