Is this tank too old?

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bamamedic

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I've got the opportunity to purchase a steel tank for $75. It's a LP tank, not sure as to the size, but the owner said he thought it might be "a 75 gallon" LOL.

The last hydro was in 1982, and it hasn't been used since. He said it was always stored with air in the cylinder.

What are the odds that it will pass hydro? Do y'all think I'd just be best saving my pennies for a new (or at least, more recently hydro'd) tank?

Thanks!
 
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More than likely it is good but $75 is a bit high considering having to do a hydro and vis. $25 to $30 is about all I would risk on it, but you could ask to bleed off the pressure and remove the valve for a look inside and if it looked dry with just a bit of flash rust you could offer a little more.
 
I've got the opportunity to purchase a steel tank for $75. It's a LP tank, not sure as to the size, but the owner said he thought it might be "a 75 gallon" LOL.

The last hydro was in 1982, and it hasn't been used since. He said it was always stored with air in the cylinder.

What are the odds that it will pass hydro? Do y'all think I'd just be best saving my pennies for a new (or at least, more recently hydro'd) tank?

Thanks!

rita

I'll bet you an airfill that it's an old "Steel 72" that is a 2250psi tank. 72cf tank.

These are great tanks...

with that said.... $75 bucks for one that is out of hydro and hasn't been done since 1982 is a little high.

At most this tank being this old and out of hydro is worth on average $25 bucks. But it might still be worth buying.

figure you'll spend $15 to $25 on a hydro, plus $10 (average) on a visual.
so if you get it for $25, hydro for $25, vis for $10, you've got $60 in this tank (plus the cost of an airfill.).

you'll prob want to upgrade the old valve which is most likely a J-valve to something newer. figure $45 to $55 for a new valve. So that's $105 to $115 invested in this tank ifyou get it from the seller for $25 bucks. That's why it's not worth $75 bucks originally. Because all the sudden you've got a $160-$170 steel 72.

hope that all helps and makes sense...

mike
 
Thanks! If it's still available when I'm able to check it out on Friday, I'll probably offer him $50 and see if he'll take it.

Goodness! A J-valve? I didn't think I'd even see one of those in my scuba career LOL

If I do get the tank, and replace the valve, I'll have to keep the old one "just because".
 
Thanks! If it's still available when I'm able to check it out on Friday, I'll probably offer him $50 and see if he'll take it.

A used AL80 that is in hydro and visual that is in 'fair' condidtion goes for $50 to $65 bucks on average. (better shapes ones or new ones might fetch more). but for an old steel 72 that is out of hydro, I think you're being over gracious to offer him $50 bucks. (just my opinion).

that money($50) + hydro + visual + new valve would be better spent towards a tank already in the configuration you want.

$25 bucks is about what I'd pay for a steel 72 with an old valve that is out of visual and hydro. maybe more if they were in perfect shape and there were two of them that were the same exact height that could be used for a compact set of doubles :D


Goodness! A J-valve? I didn't think I'd even see one of those in my scuba career LOL

If I do get the tank, and replace the valve, I'll have to keep the old one "just because".

a J valve is a yoke valve that was the norm when people dove w/o pressure gauges. it was a demand valve that cut off at a set PSI when you were running low on air. When you felt the air being restrictive to breath, you pulled down on the J' valve pull rod and it opened up the tank reserve lower psi. this allowed you a small amount of air left to surface on and served as a warning that your air was almost out and time to head up.......

using just a J-valve w/o a pressure gauge now days is not considered safe diving.


this is what one looks like. the lever on the other side has small hole in it where a pull rod loops in it. you pull the pull-rod to open up the reserve valve.

J-valve%20standad99-4803.jpg
 
Nothing dangerous about using a J valve with an SPG and the reserve lever always in the down position. If it has held air for 25 years there is nothing wrong with the valve. It's foolish to spend money to replace a valve that works fine and is in no way a danger. I have 11 steel 72's all but one has J valve.
 
I have steel 72's as well and love em. Got a set doubled up. The only reason the j-valve is on the shelf is that it was on one of the doubled up tanks. Heck I've got 2 72's from the 50's and they both passed hydro a year ago. I use em for spares and playing around as they have the old pipe thread necks.
 
Just for comparison, a local shop in Atlanta is selling off old 72's for $50 each that are still in hydro (a year or two left).

~Jeff
 
Nothing dangerous about using a J valve with an SPG and the reserve lever always in the down position. If it has held air for 25 years there is nothing wrong with the valve. It's foolish to spend money to replace a valve that works fine and is in no way a danger. I have 11 steel 72's all but one has J valve.



you're right... I said it was not considered safe with just the J-valve w/o the pressure gauge. see quote.

using just a J-valve w/o a pressure gauge now days is not considered safe diving.


there is nothing wrong with J-valves as a whole. I dove with them for years and had one on a tank until last year... Most people just prefer to replace them.
 
J-valves are often mandatory on some commercial applications and the US Navy is still using them. I have a bunch and they work just fine. I would not bother to replace them.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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